Author: Pawsanova / Kobe.sg

We are Pawsanova! 7 cats & 1 tripod dog family!

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Don’t touch my dog, unless you asked.

Now, today, I want to talk about enthusiastic dog lovers/owners; not the ones that’s afraid.

So with the utmost respect, I say this on behalf of most dog owners, particularly owners that’s struggling or value dog training: don’t touch our dog without our permission.

1. Don’t bend down to stroke my dog.
2. Don’t call it over when it’s walking towards you and you’re walking in the opposite direction, standing outside a shop, or sitting at a table outside a cafe. Or doing sit stay exercise. OR ITS WEARING A “TRAINING” TAG.
3. Don’t stroke my dog when it’s sitting me waiting to cross the traffic light.
4. Don’t lean over and randomly stroke my dog when I’m walking by.
5. And don’t you even think about picking my dog up without asking.

What a miserable, stuck-up dude, you’re probably thinking I am. Talk about being possessive over his dog. Don’t touch then don’t touch lor.

No, I get it, all dogs are cute, they’re painfully cute and nobody likes being told they can’t stroke one (particularly children). Dogs/Puppies bring total joy to people’s lives; my Kobe, in particular, puts a smile on people’s face when they see him wagging his tail, and wanna lean against you for affection when you stood down to welcome him.
Puppies and dogs are so powerful that they have the power to make you coo unabashedly out loud in the middle of the street when surrounded by total strangers. Puppies are great which is why (nearly) everyone wants to stroke them.

To you, dear dog obsessive, stroking a puppy seems normal yeah. why not? It’s also a complement saying your pooch is adorable what.
But I’m here to break the bad news to you. When you stroke a dog without asking the owner’s permission or call it over to you, not only are you being disrespectful and incredibly rude, you’re potentially endangering yourself and the dog, and the owner.

Over the months of being a new Singapore Special / Mongrel dog owner, I’ve noticed there are 2 categories of enthusiastic dog lovers/ people: 

1. People are dog owners and respect the importance of training.
2. People who just love dogs but have clearly never owned one (or did so without proper training). 

The people who fall into the first category are the only ones who ask permission before meeting my dog and stroking it or even feeding treats.

The second category of people force themselves onto my dog and ignore my existence, and now I’m the invisible dog owner/walker. I tend to abruptly and unashamedly avoid the second category of people and return the favour by ignoring their existence. 

If I hear someone coo my dog over to them as he’s walking on a leash, I will just carry on walking without stopping. Guess who’s labelled the rude one? Me.

Someone once said when I was training proper leash work on Kobe: “But I could see him (Kobe) looking at me, he was pulling at his leash to come over to me; he want to say hello to me. Yes, he does, but you know what else my Kobe was interested at and pulls at his leash to get to? Trash, birds, leaf… Oh, and every single person walking on the street.

I’m classified as stuck up because of my face, and rude because I don’t allow people who don’t ask permission to have access to my dog. 

Part of that training includes not teaching my dogs to run up to EVERY strangers. Why? Because I am a responsible owners, I think for people that’s afraid of dogs, or due to religion. 

Puppies love people, they want to meet everyone and everything because they love cuddles and play. If I allow my dog to run up to anyone once, I have to then justify allowing it to run up to everyone else. 

The first time I ever took Kobe out after the circuit breaker, as a naïve new puppy owner, I was stopped 123456 times during a walk, but that’s ok, because people are concern about what happens to his missing limb, and also because we wanted Kobe to be friendly and not afraid of people, but then again, with that we also allow him to charge towards people/kids that’s afraid of dogs, then we become as “Owners that cannot control their dog”.

I’d never had a puppy on a lead before, but I boiled up with rage. I was utterly furious with the overt disrespect and invasiveness. It’s actually a miracle I didn’t punch this person; if it happened again I probably would. The first few weeks of a dog’s life are essential for puppy training and I was very positive and excited to embark this new experience with Kobe, but this random person had ruined my dog’s first associations with going out on a lead. I told that person that Kobe is on training on how to heel properly. “Nevermind la” “Let puppies be puppies la, why so strict” “Still so young don’t need training la” “You see you see, he want to come to say hello to me already!!” 

Nobody would do this to a newborn baby. Nobody would run-up to a pram without acknowledging the mother, touch the baby or cuddle right: they’d be arrested for it. But dogs are public property, apparently, so it’s ok?

I’m not being a rude, tight-arsed or stuck up douche when I walk pass you with my dog ignoring your cooing, your tutting and attempts of getting his attention; I just want to be a responsible dog owner who trains my dog. Have you ever wonder if the dog you’re cooing might be actually aggressive? What if my dog bites you because your cooing is actually provoking him and making him anxious? 

My dog’s life is my responsibility; he can’t give consent and he doesn’t know the world as well as I do, so it’s my job to keep him safe and protected. I don’t want him running up to random strangers, what if that person is scare and hit my dog as “self defence”, or my dog gets aggressive trying to defend himself and bite that person by accident? 

The other day, I was at X dog cafe with a group of friends, Yes all the dogs are off leashed, running around and “enjoying” themselves. 

Because its a weekend, that dog cafe was rowdy and filled with loud noise and commotion from big dogs and small dogs. I leash Kobe and walked to our table, and unleash him after he obey my commands. Well for people that met Kobe before, you know he is a sociable dog when it comes to strangers and other dogs. So he was mingling and running around wanting to make new friends with dogs and humans, but then again; due to his insecure nature, certain dogs makes him feel intimidated and he will become a little more anxious and wary. 

So when I notice he was a bit “off”, I recall him back and put on the leash, because I am a responsible owner right? I don’t want my dog to be barking the cafe down, or terrorising other dogs while I’m sitting there enjoying my meal. 

So as Kobe was sitting beside me with his leash on, someone approached him, X asked me if my dog is KOBE.SG, and I said “Yes! Hello nice to meet you too!” X asked me if X can pat Kobe, I was like sure, why not? Don’t want to be rude right, X asked permission, thats a rare one!

But X display signs of uncertainty, X hover the hand in front of Kobe’s face and not sure if X wants to pat him; I immediately told X that If you want to pat him, pat with confidence, because if you display uncertainty, he will be wary of you and gets anxious and defensive. 
But X did not adhere to my advise and continue hovering X’s hand in front of Kobe face, and I saw Kobe starting to snarl… Despite my nerves and a lifetime of people-pleasing tendencies, I finally broke my suppression, “Don’t touch my dog already” calmly but sternly. And explain that he is gonna bite. 

But…….. X did the predictable; which is ignoring my warning…. X is not the first one that takes my warning lightly.. Whats with people not adhering to warning? Do you think that I am joking when I say my dog is gonna bite you?

So after I told X off, X finally decided to move X’s hand forward and pat him, and this time I saw Kobe’s snarl and heard his low growl, shifty eyes and round forehead ready to lunge forward to the incoming hand, and I IMMEDIATELY YANK X’S HAND OFF, AND SAID “I TOLD YOU NOT TO TOUCH HIM ALREADY, HE’S GONNA BITE YOU”

If I can be honest, I was pissed. Was I wrong to feel this way?

And there was a awkward silence after that incident and X decided to excuse themsleves, and despite whatever happen few seconds ago, X decided to crouched down and wave X’s hand in front of Kobe’s face to say byebye… A FEW TIMES… And this time I have to tighten Kobe’s collar and pull him towards me… 

Why? I don’t get it. 

And this is not the only thing. 

Parents.
IF you want to bring your kids out to meet some cute little cuddly dogs, please go to a dog cafe that you get to pat their in house dogs. Its for the safety of your child and other peoples’ dog.

Don’t bring your kids to a dog cafe or a dog run to pat random strangers dogs who you have no idea what their temperament and trigger points are.

I cannot emphasise this enough.
When I was at X dog cafe, I told this kid off 3 times, not to touch Kobe, and she just doesn’t listen, I even told her that he will bite. And my last straw, I raise my voice a little and gave a final warning, and suddenly her parents which is just the next table, decided to speak up after me and told his kid “People already told you don touch already, why you still do that?”

C’mon Sir, shouldn’t you be already educating your kid before she reaches her hand over once again?

When I was at X dog run, there’s this girl that’s just running free around the dog park, chasing every dog and touching all the dogs thats passing her, what if she met an aggressive one? I don’t see her parents around. 

She was chasing Kobe and screaming at the same time, making Kobe super scare, and finally Kobe ran towards me, she wants to reach her hand over to pat him, I said no, but she wants to do it, What am I suppose to do? Obviously I told her off, but honestly what else can I do beside telling her again and again not to touch my dog and explain why..

I had to finally asserted myself and it hadn’t been as painful as I thought it would. I hate not giving people what they want, especially when I’m more than capable of giving it to them (after all, I could have just let them pat Kobe right), but it wasn’t about doing something just because I could do it. It was about finally demanding your respect and attention to adhere to my request of not touching my dog due to safety reasons.

It was about finally taking ownership of my right to say no; it was about me acknowledging to myself that just because I can do something doesn’t mean I should, especially if I don’t want to, because I’m afraid of the consequences.

Dogs are cute, but they also need a lot of training and all good dog-owners take training seriously. Whatever training works for your dog, as long as it’s trained. If you really do love dogs, please start showing respect for other dog owners and acknowledge they are part of the equation, you don’t have to agree to what they think is best for their dog, but at least have the same level of respect because we all just want the best for our dog.
Just as you wouldn’t walk up to a baby or toddler without acknowledging the parent, don’t walk up to a puppy without asking the dog owner first. 

After all, not only is it inconvenient and detrimental for a dog owner who is possibly training a dog, it’s also wiser for you: you don’t know the nature of a dog. That cute little dog could be utterly terrified of people, they may cower, bark or even bite you. They may be aggressive or anxious, they may even be blind or deaf, so don’t force yourself onto a dog which can’t give consent, no matter how cute they are.

But if you ask me then yes, I will release my dog from training and you can touch my dog. But if you’re wary and scare, then please don’t request to touch my dog. Thank you.

Xoxo,
Kobe’s stuck-up douche dad. 

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Community Stories

Is laser pointer bad for dogs?

Everyone loves laser pointers. Although cats are obviously more well known to chase the red dot, many dogs, depending on their breed and personality, also find lasers amusing.

Dogs and Cats love chasing lasers because they move. The movement stimulates their inner predator. Dogs, in particular, have very light-sensitive eyes, which explains their acuity.

Is laser pointer bad for dogs?

IN MY OPINION, there’s no Yes and No answer because It really depends on your dog’s breed and personality. It also depends on your approach. So I guess if you want to play it safe, you can safely assume that it’s bad for your dogs. 

So why is everyone saying that laser pointer is bad for dogs? 

It is not because is bad for their eyes, but many people believe and claims that a game of laser pointer chase can be very frustrating for a dog and can lead to behavioural problems; which is lack of proof.

So the way you play with laser pointer triggers a dog’s prey drive, which means they want to chase it. It’s an unending game with “no closure” for the dog since they can’t ever catch that beam of light, like they can when chasing a toy or food.

Some dogs will continue looking for the light beam after the laser pointer has been put away; this is confusing for your dog because the prey has simply disappeared. This can create obsessive compulsive behaviours like frantically looking around for the light, staring at the last location they saw the light, and becoming reactive to flashes of light (such as your watch face catching the sunlight and reflecting on the wall, or the glare of your tablet screen on the floor). Dogs that exhibit behavioural issues are frustrated, confused, and anxious.

So if laser pointers might have a negative outcome, why do I still use laser toys to play with Kobe occasionally?

When I turn on the laser, MY dog’s hunter instinct is aroused, urging him to run after the light. This keeps him active, healthy, and engaged — a good thing, especially when on days when I am too busy or tired to walk him.

As dog dad, I am totally responsible for the health and wellness of my dogs.

My Kobe have never display any sort of franticness when the light disappear (Yes I know my Kobe better than you do. And if he is distress, I’ll be the first to know), he simply knows that its the end of the game, and goes back to his place to take a nap. 

Even so I do believe that most claims have some truth in it, so you can either avoid it to save you tons of worry and paranoia, or when you turn on the laser pointer next time.

One thing I do is leading Kobe to a toy or even a treat. Sometimes I do hide treats in corners or hidden spaces and land the red dot on the goodies so he found something great, which boost his confidence level too. 

This way, you’re exercising and rewarding your dog at the same time. It can also help provide some “closure” to the chase. 

The main reason why I love the laser pointer for Kobe is to give them some much needed and well-deserved exercise when I don’t have enough time or too tired to walk him. 

Most dogs don’t like to stay at home, by themselves for long periods of time. Laser games can help them to focus their attention in a non-damaging or disruptive way and keep them stimulated and moving.

Pet obesity continues to be a problem and it’s growing. Continued and various forms of activity, including games with lasers and other popular pet toys, keep your dog fit and moving.

  • Don’t point the laser beam directly to your dog’s eyes.
  • Limit game sessions to a few minutes at a time and note if your dog seems to get stressed out by the laser.
  • Complement laser playtime with stimulation from other physical toys and treats.
  • Remember that there’s no toy that can substitute for quality pet/pet parent time. Spend time with your pet 1-on-1 every day.
  • You know what is bad? Its to ignore reactive behaviour and think its ok. or to not entertain your dog because you’re lazy and tired, or allow your dog to socialise when your dog doesn’t have basic puppy manners. Thats bad. 
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Community Stories

What is resource guarding and how to overcome it?

For people that know me personally. I am very candid and transparent about my dog’s (Kobe) behaviour. I often tell people not to do certain things because my dog might or will become aggressive. Although I might sound rude and too straightforward sometimes, my intentions are good, because it’s for the benefit of the dog and the human. 

Am I a victim of Kobe’s aggression? The answer is yes. I often tell myself that I would rather he bite me, than anyone else gets hurt. 

So what is resource guarding? 

Resource guarding is when a dog reacts when they feel threatened by a valuable resource in their possession. It feels that they are about to lose whatever they have, so they take action to guard it. Resource guarding doesn’t (often for my case) always have to end with growling, lunging, biting, or fighting by doing that is to discourage another to take, or get too close to, an object or valued area in the dog’s possession. Sometimes it could be as simple as a look, head turn, or slight baring of the teeth.

Well, the thing is that guarding resources is a natural instinct. We humans guard our own resources too. Access to resources like food, water, and a safe space is essential to survival. It’s hardwired into animal nature to protect the things we believe we need to survive. While it is a normal dog behavior, it’s not a desirable one. Resource guarding becomes a dangerous problem if a dog is willing to bite or fight to keep an item. This is especially worrisome in a home with young children, elderly family members, or if the dog is not predictable in what items they decide to guard. In multi-dog households or environments, resource guarding becomes a problem if the dogs resort to fighting over their resources, and the environment is not managed to prevent these conflicts from escalating.

Guarding toys

So like what Cesar Millan says

 “ There are three degrees of food aggression:

  • Mild: the dog growls and may show its teeth.
  • Moderate: the dog snaps or lunges when approached.
  • Severe: the dog bites.

While it’s easy to assume that all cases of food aggression are a show of dominance, this isn’t necessarily the case. In a dog pack, the alpha dogs always eat first after a successful hunt, and then the other dogs get what’s left according to their pack position.

For an Alpha, showing food aggression is a form of dominance, but for dogs with a lower pack position, it can be a sign of anxiety or fearfulness. Remember, in the wild, dogs never know where or when their next meal will be, so it’s very instinctual for them to gobble up whatever food there is whenever they have it — and to protect it from anything that approaches.”

Guarding toys.

Common Items That Trigger Resource Guarding in Dogs

While most often seen around food items, a dog can develop resource guarding with any item that they deem “valuable.” This might be something we don’t consider very important, like a ball, but that ball could be your dog’s most beloved possession. 

  • Food and Treats
  • Food Bowl (filled with food or empty)
  • Bones and Edible Dog Chews
  • Toys
  • Space (dog bed, crate, their position on the couch or bed)
  • Their owner (from other pets in the home or even from other people)

Signs of Resource Guarding in Dogs

These are the most obvious signs of resource guarding:

  • Growling
  • Snarling (Bare teeth)
  • Lunging and Air Snapping (a no-contact bite)
  • Biting

Kobe my dog, does all the above. 

For mild and moderate case of resource guarding, a dog might show less intense (and therefore less obvious) signs of guarding behaviour. I am not a certified in anything but what I believe is that you will often see these more subtle signs like:

  • Freezing
  • Eating faster
  • Taking item and moving away
  • Braced body position over the item
  • Side eye staring or tracking of the person or pet approaching
  • Raising lips and baring teeth
  • Ears pinned flat against the head
  • death stare

I am trying to let Kobe know that there’s no need to guard food, toys, or space because we are family, and we live together. So now I’m trying to teach Kobe to give up something to me willingly. “Drop” / “Leave it” use a balance training and reward, so that hopefully resource guarding will not worsen over time.

Unfortunately, I started my way of dealing with Kobe’s resource guarding all wrong. So let me tell you that Using punishment and aversives as a response to resource guarding can result in more resource guarding. 

So… Base on my blood, sweat and tears, I’ve concluded what we should NOT to do if your dog growls or shows other signs of resource guarding.

Don’t Punish the Growl

Never punish a growling dog. You can punish away a growl, sure, but all you’ve done is make a dog bite more likely. If your dog learns that growling to express their discomfort at your approach results in an aversive (such as yelling, hitting, a “tap” from a shock collar), and the loss of the item they were guarding, the next time you reach for it, they’re more likely to skip the growl and go straight for a bite. (Which is what happened to me)

If someone keeps stealing my mala shaker fries after asking them to stop, the next time they reach across the table, I might smack their fingers away (or worse … so don’t steal my shaker fries). Ignored warnings will escalate behavioral responses, in both humans and dogs. You don’t want to take away important warning signs that your dog needs to communicate with you.

Don’t “Play” With Their Food and Chews

Someone once told me after I expressed my concerns with Kobe’s Resource guarding issues is that: “To prevent resource guarding, we’d always stick our hands in our dog’s food bowl while they were eating, or randomly take away their chew. That way, they know who’s boss and that the food or chew belongs to us.” Instead of fixing the issues, now Kobe will just bare teeth and snaps when I reach for the bowl or lashes out even if I was just standing there or walking past him.

All you’re doing is annoying your dog and teaching them that when you reach for something, they’ll lose it. So please don’t be like Me.

Don’t Leave Out Items That Your Dog Might Guard

Kobe loves to guard hard chews or any form of treats that takes time to eat, so I DO NOT GIVE HIM ANY. I will just remove the opportunity of him guarding. Don’t leave items lying around that your dog might find valuable enough to guard. I pick up his food bowls between meals after he finished eating and have walked away.

Once I gave Kobe a Kangaroo Rib. He took it up my sofa to enjoy it for a while, and I went to the kitchen to grab a drink and return back to the sofa just to sit down and continue my Netflix. I wasn’t even gonna take the chew, or to touch him, but he side-eyed me and gave me a low growl, and bared his teeth slightly. I immediately stopped myself from sitting down, and I called him into the kitchen and trade him with an air-dried mince lamb and while he’s enjoying it, I quickly rush to the sofa and remove the rib, and then never bought those ribs again. BUT IF only all my resource guarding encounters with Kobe were that simple. 

So now you’re wondering, did I manage to successfully desensitise the behaviour? 

I am still working on it as I’m writing this article. 

Every day I’m risking my hand getting bitten, or chewed off. But it’s all about being consistent. It’s not about you being afraid that you might get bitten, and just allow your dog to do its thing even if he is the sweetest thing on earth and that One behaviour is undesirable, and that’s ok. NO ITS NOT OK. 

Kobe my dog, he doesn’t have a lot of self-confidence, so every day I am trying to build up his confidence and teach him that his food and space are safe with humans around. 

Theres are a few guarding behaviour that I’m known of, as of now.

  1. Guards his food.
  2. Guards any treats that cannot be eaten immediately.
  3. Guard his space when he’s resting. 
  4. Guard his bed, during bedtime. 

SO what is my own process of desensitisation and conditioning training? I am not certified, and all dogs work differently, so here’s mine:

Part 1

For food guarding aggression a friend advised me to let my dog work for its food, and hand feed IF I CAN. 

First week of desensitisation for food aggression. 

Sit stay before mum mum

I put Kobe on a sit-stay command right in the middle of the living room where’s he doesn’t feel cornered. I stand about a meter away in front of him while he is having his meal. Each day I move a bit closer to him to test the threshold of the aggression.

Second Week of desensitisation.

I have already made sure that he is now cool with me hanging around while he is having his meal. Now I proceed to his food bowl while he is eating. 

At first, he isn’t very comfortable with me making eye contact with him while he is eating off from the bowl I am holding. So I will avoid eye contact while just holding the bowl while he is eating. Every day I will move my body bit by bit to face him and eventually let him realise it’s ok to make eye contact. 

Third Week of desensitisation. 

I will ask Kobe to go back in sit-stay halfway while eating. Then remove the food bowl, and put it back again, and eat on command. Just to let him know that it is okay, the food is gonna come back.

Fourth Week of desensitisation.

I made Kobe do a bunch of tricks to work for his food, and I start hand feeding.  And his food is used as a form of treat to reward him for doing tricks.  While hand-feeding Kobe. I will often make some physical contact bit by bit. To make him realise it is ok to feel all these things while eating because the food won’t run away. 

And now I am just doing this everyday. 

As for guarding treats that cannot be eaten immediately. I just don’t buy that kind of treats anymore. 

Guarding his personal space while sleeping.

First week of desensitisation for personal space aggression. 

The nun awaken?

This period I am trying to find out how close can I be around him while he is resting. And when he starts to growl or side-eye me. I will stop and just sit there use my phone, and once he realise I’m just sitting there minding my own business, he falls back asleep. So for the first week, I just sit at the rough distance that we both establish to be okay for me to hang around.

Second Week of desensitisation.

I start to move closer to him. And now I am almost right by his side. He starts to get angry at me when he feels me around him physically. Meaning if his butt touches my thigh, he gets angry. So I just hang around 1-2cm away from his body and mind my own business again.

Third Week of desensitisation. 

I start to put my hands on him. Just placing it on him gently and slowly without moving. 

Fourth Week of desensitisation.

The patting on the chest is a way of me coping my fear.

I start to do mini intermediate stroking sessions. Maybe between 5-10 seconds I will stop and freeze my hands on him. And if he shows he is ok, I will do another 5-10 seconds and repeat. 

So now I am still trying to desensitise the personal space when he has tired aggression, I just recently got bitten again after being too confident and trying my luck. 

Key is that you just have to keep working on it even if you’re scared. I am scared, but I love Kobe. So I will do it.

Selfie while he is going to sleep. That took some courage for me.

Its all about rehabilitation. Being patient is the key.

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Is it too late for crate training? And how?

If you’re wondering what is crate training and why is it important, you can refer to the link below:

What is crate training and why it is important?
You can read here for more information on what and why crate training is important

So commonly when we adopt an older dog, we will often wonder if it is still necessary to crate train? 

Of course Puppy guardians will find the crate more useful for training purposes than the guardians of older dogs. Still, there are some reasons you should crate train an older dog, such as for preparation in the event of emergency. 

So I personally feel that these are best reasons to crate train an older dog:

  • Security in an emergency situation
  • Safe transportation via car/plane
  • Easier veterinary visits and long-term care in case of illness or injury
  • Providing a comfortable and safe location in high-stress environments

Crate training a dog of any age can be tricky because “being trapped” in a “tiny box” is scary! However, many dogs that are properly introduced to a crate may truly enjoy their relaxing time inside. Of course the ideal crate size has to be big enough for them to stand up and turn around without restriction. 

Who’s the mastermind here?

Kobe is crate trained, but not on command. Kobe is peepad trained, so he gets to do this number 1 and 2 on the shower area where the peepad is placed. And the rest of the space is where his water bowl is, and toys to keep him busy. 

My foster puppy in his new adopter house

I know one high-energy SS puppy that’s being crated  (His crate is the common toilet) for a few hours at a time while his mom is at work, chooses to hang out in his crate frequently in the evenings, weekends and overnight. Hence, it’s important to crate train properly. Because crates don’t come with instruction manuals, they can easily be unintentionally misused, causing your dog severe distress.

So like I mention, crate training doesn’t come with instructions, so it can easily be unintentionally misused. So I will highlight again.

Of course if you choose to crate train your dog like me in the common toilet, please make sure there’s no toilet paper to shred. HAHA

Introduce it Casually

The worst way you can introduce your puppy to the idea of a crate is to bring it home and lock him inside it immediately. People don’t like being trapped against their will, and neither do dogs. Instead, you should initially treat the crate like it’s just another piece of furniture — but one that he can enjoy. To this end, place it in a part of the house that he frequents, add a blanket and a toy or two, and keep the door open. Then back off and give him a chance to explore it. Some dogs will immediately start sniffing around and going into the crate, which is a great sign. If your puppy isn’t quite so bold, encourage him to check it out by placing favorite foods and toys near and inside the crate. The ultimate goal is to get him comfortable with going inside, and this is something that could take days. Be patient with the process.

After he’s willing to enter the crate, your next goal is to get him comfortable with staying inside for extended lengths of time. One of the best ways to do this (and create a positive association with the crate) is to start putting his food in the crate. If possible, you want to place the food at the back of the crate so that your dog goes all the way in. Some dogs may not be willing to do this, though, so you can start with the food just inside the crate and slowly move it back with successive meals. As soon as your dog is eating his meals while standing all the way inside the crate, it’s time to close the door. After he’s done eating that first time, open the door immediately. You’ll leave him in longer and longer with each meal, adding just a few minutes every time.

It’s possible that your dog may whine. If this happens, open the crate immediately and don’t leave him in as long next time. However, if he whines again, wait until he stops before letting him out or you will teach him that whining equals open door.

Once your dog is hanging out in her closed crate without signs of stress, it’s time to lengthen her stay. Use a favorite toy or treat to encourage her to enter the crate, then close it. Hang out by the crate for several minutes, then go into a different room for a few minutes so she gets used to the idea of staying in the crate alone. When you return, don’t open the crate immediately. Instead, sit with her again for a few more minutes and then open the door. Keep increasing the time as you do this until your dog is able to stay in the locked crate for half an hour without your presence. When she’s able to do this, she’s ready for you to leave her for short periods and possibly even sleep in the closed crate overnight. The key here is to make crating seem completely normal and avoid excitement. Encourage him to get into the crate and praise him when he does so, but keep it brief. When you come home, stay low-key and ignore any excited behavior that he shows.

Rules for successful crate training

  • Never leave a dog inside a crate for longer than five hours at a time (with the exception of overnight).
  • Make sure the crate is large enough for your dog to comfortably stand up, lie down and turn around in. The more space the dog has inside the crate to get comfortable, the better.
  • If you have a very young or very tiny puppy whose bladder is underdeveloped, never leave them inside a crate for longer than they can hold their urine. (Unless you planning to peepad train him)
  • The same goes for a senior dog with a weak bladder that needs to urinate frequently.
And also make sure your floor mat is beyond reach. LOL

These training tips can help your dog love the crate

  • Never force your dog inside the crate or close them in it for longer than they’re ready for. They must choose to go in on their own.
  • Help your dog to choose to go into the crate by throwing a treat, leaving a bully stick or pig’s ear or placing a puzzle toy filled with high-value treats (i.e., peanut butter, hot dogs, chicken) inside.
  • Gradually increase the period of time your dog spends in the crate. Begin by luring them in, closing the door for a couple of seconds, then letting them back out. Repeat this several times, then increase the interval by a few seconds. Repeat, slowly increasing the time they spend inside with the door closed.
  • Place soft bedding inside the crate and provide access to water.
  • Remember to NEVER leave your dog inside the crate with the door closed for longer than five hours at a time. The one exception to the rule is crating overnight, which is okay as long as your dog is a good nighttime sleeper.
  • If your dog is having trouble adjusting to the crate and begins to howl, dig, or bite at the bars, put a sheet over to minimise visual stimulation. 

All the information I shared is base on my knowledge and my research on how and what’s the best for crate training. Of course certain things I said you might not agree to what I say, or maybe it doesn’t work on your dog. If you have other ways or a better way of crate training, please leave on the comment below so we all dog owners/lovers can learn something too!

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Scared of dogs? This article is for you

If you know my dog Kobe and interact with him before, You know that he is a sweet boy that loves human and other dogs! Even thou he is missing a leg, always have a smile on his face, I still have many people thats afraid of him.

Have you ever just walking your dog and minding your own business, and from afar, you see X stops abruptly and find another alternative path; or X starts walk diagonally as they stare down your dog to avoid it. 

Have you ever just exiting the lift with your dog, and you release some sort of invisible force repealing X thats about to enter the lift?

Have you ever just minding your business while walking your dog, and suddenly you hear someone screaming, you thought someone was in trouble, but oh, your dog is cause of it.

Have you ever just resting in public places, and your dog starts wagging its tail and smiling to X, and X deems your dog to be aggressive and scary? 

Have you ever goes to a dog park where there’s couple of small doggos, the moment you off leash your dog, X picked up their dogs and leave the place soon after.

Have you ever just walking and keeping left side on the lane, and someone incoming using their phone without paying attention, and suddenly you release some sort of invisible force again, repealing X immediately, and X got angry and “TSK” at you, or worst, confront you and ask you to walk your dog properly.

Thats a sign of people suffering from Cynophobia develop the condition as a result of negative experience with a dog in the youth. Eg: Been chased or bitten by a dog, witness someone get terrified by a dog, or have grown up with someone who’s aversion to dogs become their own fear. 

Cynophobia, pronounced (sy-no-phoia), is a phobia or a fear of dogs. 

Oh, let’s not forget there a small fraction that just outright dislikes dogs.

Base on my own experiences above; and speaking as a dog owner, and an animal lover;

I think that depends on the situation:

A) the owner, and B) how the dog is behaving. 

Certain dog owners will get mad at everything, but also there are dogs that behave badly or are new to the owner and haven’t been trained yet, so their owners will probably understand if you get upset.

For me, I will try my best to be respectful if I’m out with my dog and notice someone eyeing him with uncertainty. I will shorten the leash and have him close and give the person room to pass. I always keep my very socialized / trained dog on my side and sit as they passes with fear. By doing that; I let the person know ahead of time that my dog is a friendly one. 

(That dog is a mongrel and omg he is looking at me, he is about to come and bite me)

While I respect their fear and I won’t try to force them to like dogs or be offended by it, in some cases I don’t understand. I often wonder if the person had a traumatic experience, or if they didn’t grow up with dogs and don’t know anything about them, or a certain breed thats stereotyped as aggressive.

My small little advise to you if you’re suffering from Cynophobia:

If you’re really afraid of my dog, I totally understand! I’ll make sure he doesn’t come up to you. But please, do not start screaming. There is no reason to scream. Although he is very friendly, I have train him to not having to greet everyone he meets while walking, so he’s not even going to come up to you. People do get scared sometimes and keep their distance. BUT if you start screaming when he is literally just standing there, chances are you will scare him just as much as you are scared, which is bad enough, and try to bolt, which is worse.

And if someone made my dog that uncomfortable I’ll be pissed off as all hell. He might not mind it, but I’m only human.

So if you’re scared of my dog, please politely say, “I am afraid of dogs” and back away a little bit. I will get the message and will move him away from you. If I notice you look scared, we will move away. I believe all dog owners are responsible for that, but of course, we also have a small fraction that feels that they are above all, and doesn’t give a damn about your fear, then I am sorry about your negative experience of dog owners like that.

Fear is something that alerts us to possible danger and helps keep us safe. It’s good to be aware of what scares us, and then choose to either be afraid of that thing forever, or learn about it and determine when you need to be afraid and when it’s really okay. Both options are valid.

Im coming to attack you with my cuteness

On the flip side, we also have people that over enthusiastic animal lover. Well, thank you for getting so excited seeing my dog in public, I’m fluttered. But your excitement might spook my dog too. 

If we are resting and your kid decided to approach us and wants to pat my dog while making a lot of loud noises, please respect us that we might have to politely decline your kid’s enthusiasm and walk away, and often is because we know our dogs better than you, and we do not want to be accused that our dog is creating a problem. 

I mean, who could be afraid of this dog?
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Why did I choose Choke Chain instead of R+ Training?

People often associate with Kobe as a sweet loving boy, who is super friendly with strangers and other animals (Dogs or Cats). But what you guys don’t know is that this sweet loving boy, has a side of aggressiveness thats hard to tame. 9/10 times he snapped at me, often bleeds and leaves a scar. Some people advise that I should assert dominance, Some people advise that I should choose force-free / positive reinforcement. 

Trust me, I did both and shed a fair share of blood during these process. 

We count ourselves lucky because we are aware what triggers Kobe to turn aggressive. So we can manage or prevent any situations that causing him to behave aggressively. EG: Feeding time (Resource guarding); or when Kobe gets tired (Cranky) 

For other owners, there are so many drawbacks in living with and loving aggressive dog. That may include manage feeding time, the arrival of visitors, or seeing other dogs. There’s the constant concern of an incident happening despite your best efforts at prevention. It may be impossible, or at least challenging, to join others for group walks, journeys to the park or to visit family over the holidays. But sometimes the worst part about having an aggressive dog is that other people don’t see the dog you love.

They don’t see the sweet dog who cuddles with you at night 

I strongly believe that most dogs with aggression issues are lovely to be around in most situations, however badly they may behave in others. Many aggressive dogs are not at their best when out in public around strangers or other dogs, but are kind and lovable around the family, including small kids and even the cat. When you have a dog like that, it hurts when other people don’t see the good side of your dog, even though that’s what you see most of the time.

If you have an angel who is all too often an angel in disguise, what do you wish other people could see in your dog that you see every day?

I‘m thankful that people viewed Kobe as a dog that’s very approachable in public, with humans or other dogs. Today I decided to share this because having Kobe is not all rainbow and sunshines. People often react negatively when they see an aggressive dog. It’s hurtful. 

Not all dogs are the same. Not all training works for all dogs at every situation faced. Training also depends on human’s lifestyle too. So why did I choose Choke Train old school training, instead of the hype R+ training for Kobe?

Well.. For what I understand. Treats do have their place in training your dog. And if your dog is food motivated, then you can see quick results using treats. But, and that’s a big BUT, treats won’t train your dog around major distractions. Say another dog that wants to play, or the grab food guy ringing the doorbell. Treats can be good for training your dog, but all in moderation. With a Positive Reinforcement Dog Training will be teaching your dog basic commands using treats to lure the behaviour.

There is no correction in Positive Reinforcement Dog Training (aka treat training). If the dog does not perform the command, you can continue to offer the treat or get a higher-value treat. Something tasty and more motivating. Which was I wanted because I never wanted to “abuse” my poor 3-legged dog. He have been through so much during his puppyhood. I just want to give him the best.

But Kobe is an insecure dog who is not treat/food motivated. So how am I supposed to make it work? A trainer advise me to be consistent, be confident! I did. But it still doesn’t work, what should I do? Kobe is zig-zagging his way with his then harness. Getting afraid of every single human that jogs pass him, or a bicycle, almost everything. People were afraid of him too? Wouldn’t you be scare seeing a dog so ‘out of control’? I tried putting a treat on his nose to redirect him, he don’t even bother to sniff it. Did I try? Yes.

So I decided to engage a trainer that uses Choke Chain for Behaviour Training. Did the training work for Kobe? Yes.

In less than 3 days. Kobe was heeling beside me. Sit down when I stop walking. Somehow magically, he was minding his own business while a bicycle passes us in lightning speed, he did not freak out! Did I get stares and comments from passerby? Yes.

“Why are you choking our poor dog? He only has 3 legs! Just let him do what he wants.”

“Why are you treating your dog like this? Its abusive!”

Kobe is happily walking beside me, enjoying the scenery and fresh air without feeling afraid. Choke chain was just a chain hanging on his neck. Its just dangling there. Oh well.. People judge from what they see.

There is a place for treats when training your dog. Treats are especially great for training a puppy.

I only use treat training when:

  1. Potty training a puppy or dog
  2. Treats are a great way to train young puppies (6 months and younger) basic commands. You can use treats to teach him to SIT, DOWN, COME, and do fun tricks such as PAW, BOOP!
  3. Crate training
  4. Occasional treats are great to reinforce any training commands, but should not be used as the only tool.

I believe that positive/treat training has become today’s popular method only because people are afraid to discipline their dogs! And somehow correcting your dog has been twisted into animal cruelty.

Please ask yourself, is it crueler to:

A) Never discipline your dog and allow him to misbehave and do as he pleases whenever he wants, pull on the leash whenever he sees a dog, bark at strangers, etc.

OR

B) Train your dog and correct your dog’s bad behavior one time with a good correction so he learns right from wrong the first time?

Choosing the right training method is very important to you and your dog. You as the owner need to be comfortable with your choice, but keep in mind what you expect from your dog.

Using treats can be fun for you and your dog, but remember that we all need discipline in our lives to be balanced.

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How to Stop Your Cat From Chewing Electrical Wires

Recently one of our cat started the behaviour of biting wires out of boredom. He bit our Dyson Vacuum wire and Xiaomi Robot wire. I did not notice the broken wire and wanted to charge my Xiaomi Robot, when I switch on the socket, it created a big spark of fire and short circuit the entire house causing the electric to trip outside our electrical riser. And my wife was so scared because I was super near the fire, and I could have gotten electrocuted.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFY_nDSJ1sf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

So I am here to highlight how to prevent your cat from biting wires, because its very dangerous.

When cats chew on wires, plastic bags or other foreign objects. These behaviour may be caused by an obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD); or health-related / environmental factors. EG: Dental issue, a way for the cat to relieve stress; etc. No matter what is the reason behind it, it is extremely dangerous for cats to chew on electrical cords, it could cause short circuit to your house; damage your appliances, or worst electrocuted. 

Fortunately, there are a few ways you can address this kind of behaviour.

Reasons for Chewing

It might be a mystery why cats choose electrical wires to chew on. The reasons for cord chewing may include:

Stress

Stress can prompt a wide range of odd behaviors. In these cases, the chewing serves to relieve anxiety and simply makes the cat feel better emotionally.

Boredom

When a cat isn’t having enough stimulation or exercise, it will cause boredom and that will result stress may cause it to seek other outlets.

Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder

Obsessive-compulsive disorders (OCD) usually involves chewing and gnawing behaviour.

Although cord chewing may be the primary OCD behaviour you observe in your cat, you may spot other symptoms as well. There doesn’t seem to be an explanation for why some cats develop a particular combination of OCD symptoms.

  • Overgrooming, characterised by a cat licking and chewing its fur so vigorously that it starts to fall out in spots, is also common.
  • Obsessively sucking, licking or chewing on fabric.

Dental

Cats that have pain in their mouths caused by dental problems may indulge in gnawing behaviour in an attempt to relieve the discomfort. So it’s important to visit a veterinary for dental care. EG: Checkups and cleanings.

Pica

A nutritional deficiency called pica is associated with eating odd materials. When a nutrient is missing from its diet, a cat will seek to replace it, but may choose inappropriate items to ingest. Some cats that suddenly begin targeting inedible objects.

How to Stop Chewing

Take your cat to the veterinarian for a checkup if it displays inappropriate chewing behaviour so that any underlying health problems can be discovered and addressed. In the meantime, take steps to keep your cat safe.

  • Cover electrical cords by running them through wire protector. You can also make them less appetizing by using bitter spray.
  • Offer the cat alternatives to chew, such as cardboard. 
  • Reduce anxiety to help eliminate the need for chewing. Consider trying a synthetic kitty pheromone (Feliway) to relieve stress and soothe your cat. Otherwise, make sure your cat’s litter box is spotless and that it has enough toys and playtime with you to stave off boredom.

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What is crate training and why it is important?

In addition to solid and functional obedience, crate training has to be one of the most valuable skills our dogs can have.  Before we go any farther, let’s get one thing out of the way right now – crate training your dog is not cruel, inhumane, or mean.  Often times we as humans relate a crate to jail or feel sorry for a dog that is in a crate, but it’s important to remember that we’re training through the dog’s mentality, not our own.

There are several beneficial reasons to crate training your puppy or dog, and yes, by crate training we are expecting the crate door to be closed.  

In my opinion, here is the most important reason to crate train your dog:  At some point in your dog’s life, they are going to be in a crate.  Whether it be at the groomer, at the vets’s clinic, boarding, at a friend’s home, in a car, or anywhere else, it is going to happen.  Preparing them for these situations is important and, in my opinion, not crate training your dog is doing a disservice to them as it causes a lot of stress, anxiety, and is extremely difficult on some dogs when they finally need to be put in that situation.

1. Provide a Safe Space

I had always thought that crates were cruel. One of the things I learned with the new pup is that crates are not cruel when used properly, and in fact can be a great tool for the average pet owner. Proper, positive crate training can provide benefits for both you and your dog.

Dogs have a natural instinct and crates can provide a haven for your dog when he is feeling stressed or tired and needs some downtime.

2. Help With Potty Training

Crates are great for house training. Dogs and puppies don’t like a soiled bed, so a properly sized crate is very useful to assist you in teaching him bladder and bowel control.

3. Household Safety

Having your dog resting comfortably in his crate while you are not able to supervise him is a bonus. Maybe you are cooking dinner or working on renovations where your pup could cause safety issues just by being underfoot. Having him tucked safely away will give you peace of mind.

4. Positive Car rides.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBcIQXTjJik/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Car travel in a crate is far safer for both of you than having him loose in the car.

5. Positive Vet Visits

If your dog ever needs to stay overnight at the vet’s, he will be far less stressed when he is confined in the cage or run if he has already been crate trained.

6. Reduce Damages

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Happily destroying our skirting.. -_-

You wouldn’t want to come home to find your furniture bitten or skirting destroyed to pieces. Unwanted disasters like these can be avoided by providing them stimulating dog toys or chews inside their crate, instead of them finding other interesting household items to destroy when left un-supervised and un-crated.

7. Evacuation

Finally, if you ever have to evacuate from your home in case of any kind of emergency, having a crate trained dog is so much easier for all concerned (Better Discipline). Whether you keep your dog with you, or he has to be handed over to others, your pup will be better off in his own crate. He’ll be more relaxed with his own blankets and toys with your scent on them, than one who is unfamiliar with a crate and therefore experiences undue stress.

To sum it up why crate training is so important.

  • It’s a tremendous aid in potty training your puppy or dog.
  • It makes traveling with your dog much easier as they have a familiar reference point wherever they go.
  • It’s important aid to creating structure in your dog’s life
  • It helps your dog to mentally relax
  • It gives your dog a place of their own to go and get some peace and quiet, especially in big gatherings etc.
  • Proper crate training can help reduce the anxiety when leaving your dog home alone.
  • It help prevent unwanted behaviours, such as chewing household objects, and more when you cannot be with your dog.

Although it may be emotionally hard for some of us, my advice is to put your dog’s crate in the proper location and immediately being crate training your dog from the second he or she sets foot in your home.  When your dog is properly crate trained as an adult, you may not utilise the crate as much but continuing to implement the crate into your dog’s daily routine so the benefits of crate training carry over for the dog’s life.

Misuse of Crates

Crates can also be misused and have a negative influence on your dog. Here are some uses to avoid:

  • It is very important to remember not to use a crate as punishment for your dog. His crate should be his haven. I have often found Kobe resting in his crate of his own accord with the door wide open.
  • While crates can be used for teaching your dog the house rules, it is NOT okay to use the crate as a crutch because of lack of training. Your dog wants to be with YOU, not spending his life in a crate, so be diligent about your training regime early on.
  • Never leave your dog in his crate for too long, especially puppies who have limited bladder control. If you must crate your dog while you are at work, it is important that he gets a potty break. If you are leaving him crated at home, it is absolutely essential that you make sure he gets plenty of exercise and playtime when you are around.

xoxo

Kobe’s Parents (Kendrick & Kimberly)

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How did I introduce my puppy to 7 cats?

I am often asked how to make my new puppy (Kobe) get along with my family cats (Pawsanova 7x)

Today I will reveal some of my own opinions and the homework we have done to get my Tripod Puppy be part of my cat family!

The First Step

Kobe cleaning his best friend,

The first step in the process of integrating a dog to your cat(s) is to provide controlled safe exposure. The dog must either be in a dog crate or on a leash in the house 100% for a long long time. This period will be weeks but many times it can be months. (We took 2-3months) 

There is really no hurry. A gentle introduction is far safer than a rushed one, and will hopefully result in both pets becoming good friends. 

I recommend the use of a dog crates if you have space at home. (We use the common toilet as a ‘crate’ instead). The use of a crate is the safest way to make sure you can control the environment. It allows you to focus on the cats while the dog is in the crate.

In the beginning, our cats are put in a separate room before the dog is brought into the house. Always leash your dog while entering a house(Any house, whether is it meet and greet, going to a friend house, or adopting a new pet). This shows them that coming into the house is a controlled experience and not someplace where they can charge around and act crazy.

In other words; you must always be in control of your dog, and the environment you’re in; That’s how accidents are avoided. We don’t leave things to chance. By having the dog on leash, I have control of him if the cat runs and he tries to chase.

People often ask us “When we decided to get dog be off leash and have fun with the cats?” The answer is simple; when you can control the dog under distraction. (Kobe is under obedience training) If you can’t call your dog to you when it is highly distracted by your cat – then the dog is not under your control and it should either be on leash; or in a crate.

In The Crate

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Once in the crate the dog is expected to be calm and quiet. If the dog barks at the cats; he got verbally scolded. If they will not stop barking we either close the toilet door (because our crate is the common toilet) The dog was never allowed to be in the house and out of the crate unless it’s on leash. It’s never taken out of the crate (on leash) when the cat is in the room until it has gone ONE WEEK without barking at the cats.

This does not mean the dogs are locked in dog crates for weeks at a time. They can have free (on leash) time in the house but in the beginning the cats are always put in a different room when the dog is out.

If you’re adopting an adult dog and trying to introduce them to the cats, he can be acclimated to a muzzle. We like the rubber mashed basket muzzles because they are less restrictive to the dog. Getting the dog used to the muzzle during these first weeks gives the dog something else to think about other than the cats in the house. After weeks of wearing it in the crate it becomes second nature for the dog to have it on.

When the day comes to allow the dog to be loose in the rooms with the cats it is important to do this while the dog is on leash. If that goes well then have the dog in a muzzle.

Should the adult dog shows the slightest sign of aggression towards the cats it needs to get a correction. The severity of the correction will vary by the temperament of the dog. Some dogs simply need to be told NO !! – while other dogs require a stronger correction.

The correction needs to be strong enough that the dog will remember it the next time it thinks about being aggressive to the cats. If you have been doing your training correctly your dog will be looking at you as it’s pack leader. Pack leaders determine when to use aggression – not lower ranking members of the pack.

If a dog repeated ignores your warnings you have not done a good enough job of establishing yourself as this dogs leader. Should this be the case you need to go back to training and work on that. You might want to work on the dogs obedience training as well.

He will instinctively accept you as pack leader and your position that cats are not prey items to chase and kill.

At some point in time the muzzle must come off.

This should only happen when you are comfortable with your dog’s actions when the dog is on leash and the cats are around. You must have patience. For adult dogs and cats this could take months. With time they will settle into a life style where both sides accept the fact that they now share the same territory.

Dogs and Cats being friends

Kobe with the cats

The best of all worlds is when our dogs and cats become friends.

I need to say that there is a fine line between allowing the dog and cat to get to know one another play together and creating a safe environment. Running in the house should never be allowed, even if it seems to be in play. When cats run this can easily trigger prey drive in the dog.

Cats and Dogs

Some cats accept dogs better than others.

Kobe and Kovacs sharing bed together.

One of our cats (Kovacs the American Curl) become Kobe’s bestfriend immediately when they first lay eyes on each other.  They play together, eat and sleep together.

This is Archie. Another best friend.

Whereas our another cat Ramsay would jump up and walk away in disgust for months. Over time Enzo became more tolerant towards Kobe and will eventually allow Kobe to be close to him. Kobe has no aggression towards our cats to begin with, we are very lucky. But because he is a big dog, our priority is still our cats’ safety. Prevention is better than Cure.

On the other hand Lokie the Munchkin has never warmed to dogs. He learns to tolerate them on an individual basis, but he will always “hiss” if Kobe come too close. 

With a little bit of luck and dedication, you will be able to get your dog and cat to live together in peace. It’s very important to remember to go slowly. No matter how quickly or badly you want it to happen, you have to allow these things to process at their own speed, which can be a snail’s pace over months. The best advice I can give is to error on the side of caution and don’t take chances with your pets lives.

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Facts about Cat’s Tail and What are they trying to tell you?

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  1. Your cat’s tail helps them to balance. It helps to serve like a “balancing stick” when walking on narrow spaces such as fences or shelves. And the Tail also aids in balancing when a cat is running after or jumping on prey!
  2. Even though cats uses their tails for balancing; they can live without tails too. If a cat’s tail needs to be amputated due to injuries, or born without a tail, their adaptiveness will soon learn to compensate for the loss of their tails. 
  3. Tail injuries can cause permanent damages. Cat’s tails have many nerves that can affect the tails muscles as well as their control of urination and defecation. And pulling on their tails can cause nerve damages; and even though some may heal over time, but it can often be permanent. So never pull on a cat’s tail!
  4. Cat uses their tail to communicate. Their tail is a great indicator of your cat’s mood! 
Credit: Taste of the Wild
Cats are notoriously hard to read. But since they use their tail as a form of communication, that will give you an idea of your cat’s current mood and what might happen next!

HIGH TAIL

  • A high tail means that your cat is feeling confident and happy; that also means that have a friendly intention and if their tail is quivering a little, it means that your cat is very excited to see you! 

LOW TAIL

  • A low tail means your cats tail is straight down, this can be a sign of unease or fear. BUT, some cat breeds can naturally be carrying their tails lower than other. Do not be alarmed!

TUCKED

  • This is very similar to ‘Low tail’. If your cat’s tail is tucked underneath their body, they are feeling fearful or anxious.

QUESTION MARK

  • This is often a greeting sign when they see someone they know and they like! Sociable cats tend to do this with anyone they meet. Usually this “Question mark” will appear when they are approaching you.

PUFFED UP TAIL

  • Oh, that means they are pissed. Usually feel threatened, they may become aggressive if pushed. Cats do that to make themselves “look bigger”. Their tail is high and puffed up, along with the base of their tail and along the spine. They will instinctively do this when they are startled by something potentially scary.

TAIL WHIP

  • That means they are pissed too. Its squally a rapid motion back and forth showing that they are emotionally stimulated and potentially get angry and aggressive. Cats often to that when they have a disagreement with each other. Usually accompanied by yowling. Cute but feisty.

TAIL TWITCHING

  • If they twitched their tail, usually means they are experiencing some sort of conflict or feeling agitated. If you’re stroking them and that happens, its recommended to stop what you’re doing; as that might be an early sign to tell you that they begin not to enjoy it. Or sometimes when they wanna do something but they can’t – for example standing in front of a closed door, wants to go out but it won’t open. Or a ball that they are chasing rolled underneath the sofa and they couldn’t get it out.

SWISHING TAIL

  • Hunting mode!! Usually happens while playing (Jumping on a toy or hunting). Its recognisable by the slow swaying from left to ride.
Lokie says Bye!