Category: Community Stories

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How to Stop Chewing in Puppies

Article originally published on The Spruce Pets. Written by Amy Bender. Refer to the original article here.

For puppies, the entire world is a chew toy. Puppies, like babies, explore the world with their mouths. Unfortunately, their explorations are not limited to their own toys. Your shoes, furniture, children’s toys, and anything else lying around your house are fair game for a teething puppy.

Unfortunately, your puppy may chew things that can harm it. You can put a stop to your puppy’s destructive behavior, but It takes time and consistent training.https://959980d490ba4ceaa2688c409992c87e.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-37/html/container.html

Why Do Puppies Chew?

Most of the time, chewing is normal behavior for puppies and dogs, and it serves many purposes, such as strengthening their jaws and relieving anxiety.

Like babies, puppies experience discomfort while teething, and gnawing or chewing on things provides some relief. Boredom is another reason that puppies chew. Dogs are social animals and need stimulation for their mental health. If you’re not exercising your pup enough or giving it sufficient one-on-one time, it may seek attention by chewing inappropriate objects.

puppy teething
  NatalieShuttleworth / Getty Images

How to Stop Destructive Chewing

There aren’t many medical conditions other than teething that cause a puppy to chew on things, but it’s worth a trip to the vet just to be sure. If the vet gives your puppy a clean bill of health, there are several ways to prevent your puppy from wrecking your abode.

Puppy-Proof Your Home

Puppies should not have the full run of your home until they are completely trained. Many people choose to use the kitchen since it’s easier to clean up accidents on an uncarpeted floor.

Once you’ve decided on the areas where your puppy will be allowed to play, take a good look around and begin puppy-proofing. Pick up or move any objects that your puppy might decide to chew. Get down at the dog’s level to see what might appeal to it. Remove or cover any electrical wires, houseplants, garbage pails, children’s toys, and anything else you don’t want your puppy to chew or knock over.

Crate Train Your Puppy

While crate training is usually talked about in terms of house training, it is also a good tool for curbing destructive puppies. When you’re not able to supervise your puppy, crating can keep it and your home safe. If you don’t have a crate, you can confine the dog to a small, puppy-proof room such as a bathroom or kitchen.

Provide Your Puppy with Toys

Chewing allows puppies to ease teething pain, and it alleviates boredom. To prevent your puppy from getting in the habit of inappropriate chewing, make sure you provide it with lots of appropriate things to chew on.

Toys that work well for puppies are rubber toys with a hollow center, stuffed animals with squeakers inside, and nylon bones. Avoid animal bones, hooves, and antlers.

Don’t give your puppy old shoes or socks as playthings; you’re likely to cause confusion between which shoes are OK for chewing and which ones are off-limits.

There is some controversy over the safety of items like rawhides, pig’s ears, and other edible chews. Be sure to talk to your veterinarian before giving any of these items to your puppy.

Puppy chewing a toy
 Mint Images – Norah Levine / Getty Images

Rotate Your Puppy’s Toys

Since puppies chew to alleviate boredom, it’s a good idea to rotate your puppy’s toys every few days. A puppy will be looking for something new and interesting to sink its teeth into. By changing its toys around periodically, you’ll be keeping it interested in the things you want it to chew, and it will be less likely to start gnawing on the kitchen cabinets.

Offer a Swap

Try giving your puppy a treat in exchange for whatever inappropriate object it has in its mouth. This is a good way to train your dog to learn the command “give” if you repeat it before giving the treat. Over time, your puppy should learn that “give” means “give me that thing in your mouth!”

Just take care not to lavish your puppy with praise when it swaps the inappropriate object for a treat. You don’t want to turn it into a game where your puppy expects a reward for chewing on the wrong things.

Redirect Your Puppy

When you see your puppy begin to chew on something inappropriate, don’t scold it. Instead, move the puppy away from the object and redirect it to something you want it to chew. Make your puppy’s toy more interesting by squeezing a squeaky toy or shaking a bone while talking to it in a happy tone of voice. Give the pup lots of praise for chewing its toys.

If you think your puppy is teething, you can give it a doggy version of a teething ring: Dampen a washcloth; then place it in the freezer for about an hour. Give it to your puppy to tug and chew on, allowing the cold to soothe its sore gums.

Give Your Puppy Plenty of Exercise

A tired puppy is a happy puppy. Be sure to give your puppy enough playtime and cuddle time. If it’s had all of its ​puppy vaccinations, make walks part of your dog’s daily routine. If left to its own devices, your puppy is going to start looking for ways to burn off energy. This leads to destructive behavior. A puppy who gets regular exercise is much more likely to be well behaved.

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Why Does My Dog Get The Zoomies?

puppy running

Article originally published on Dodowell. Written by Danielle Esposito. Refer to the original article here.

The first time you see a case of the zoomies, you might watch in shock as your dog bolts back and forth at lightning speed before collapsing on the floor.

While your panting dog might look like he just ran around like crazy for no reason, you can breathe easy knowing that these outbursts are completely normal.

“There is no reason to be alarmed by the zoomies,” Shelby Semel, head trainer at Animal Haven rescue in New York City, told The Dodo. “They are just bursts of energy being released, often stored up over a period of time.”

What are the zoomies? 

Formally known as frenetic random activity periods (FRAPs), zoomies are high-energy bursts of activity that tend to hit puppies or young dogs more often than older dogs, although older dogs can still get a jolt of that zippy energy from time to time.

You can tell your dog is having a case of the zoomies when they jet back and forth across your yard or living room. Some zoomies will manifest in a dog spinning frantically to try to catch their tail until they either succeed or fall. 

Why do dogs get the zoomies? 

Dogs get the zoomies for all kinds of reasons — like when they’re super excited that you just got home from work, or even from seeing another dog get their own zoomies. 

Zoomies can also come when your dog has some built-up nervous energy that needs to be released, like after a long training session or a bath. 

Keeping your zooming dog safe

Zoomies are usually harmless — but dog parents are sometimes worried about how clumsy their dogs get while zooming around. In order to keep your dog, other humans and your belongings safe, make sure you get out of the way when they’re happening — and if you can, make sure they happen in a relatively open environment. 

“When you have a large pittie or any large breed, you have to worry about them accidentally knocking into things,” Semel said. “So I suggest clearing off your coffee table before and staying out of their way for the couple of minutes it lasts!” 

You’ll be able to tell they’re about to start if you keep an eye out for your dog’s rising energy levels — and after a few spurts of the zoomies, you’ll probably be able to know when they’re going to strike. 

For example, if you know your dog zooms after a bath (sooooo many do!), it would be a good idea to take your dog to a safe zoom zone immediately after, like the backyard or away from young kids.

Other dogs like to kick things off with a play-bow, which can be your hint to clear out. 

According to Semel, some dogs zoom if they’re under-exercised or toward evening hours. “Many do it after something stressful, new or exciting, like after getting a bath or when they’re excited to go on a walk.” 

It’s important to remember that you shouldn’t discourage or stop your dog from zooming, but instead control the environment that he zooms in to make sure that everyone’s safe.

And don’t forget to pull out your phone camera — zoomies are the best to watch and will leave you with some great videos to look back on.

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Community Stories

How to Care for a Puppy

puppy
cute puppy of cavalier spaniel sleeping

Article originally published on The Spruce Pets. Written by Jenna Stregrowski. Refer to the original article here.

Bringing a new puppy into your home will change your life forever. Puppies are definitely a lot of work, but they also bring plenty of joy to your world. Whether you are ​getting your first puppy or just need a refresher course, here’s what you’ll need to know to get your puppy on the right track to adulthood.

Choosing the Right Puppy

If the time is right for getting a puppy, you will now have to choose the best match. Perhaps your future companion will find you. A puppy can come into your life by chance and you can feel an instant connection and know it is the right one, but it doesn’t always happen like that. Often, you must take on the important task of going out and finding the right kind of puppy for you.

First, examine your lifestyle and consider what you are looking for in a puppy. Purebred or mixed-breed dog? Big or small? There are even more factors to consider, such as grooming and exercise needs, temperament, and potential health issues.

Next, you need to decide where to look for your new puppy. Will you visit an animal shelter to adopt your new dog? Perhaps you will seek out a responsible breeder. Research and patience are essential throughout this process. When you have finally found the right puppy, you’ll have a friend for life.

Getting Your Home Ready for Puppy

Before you bring home your cute little furball, you need to ensure that your home is as safe as possible, both for your new puppy and your belongings. The puppy-proofing process is similar to toddler-proofing a home, but there are differences.

First, get an idea of the puppy-eye-view of your home. Electrical cords, potential toxins, and breakable items should be placed completely out of reach. Remember that your puppy can jump, climb, chew, and scratch, so place what you can very high up or in a locked cabinet.

Be aware that “child-safe” latches do not tend to work on curious and determined puppies. It’s best to secure lower cabinets and drawers with locks or metal hardware. These should be chew-proof and require opposable thumbs to operate.

Install durable baby gates or pet gates if needed to keep your puppy away from certain rooms of your home. It’s a good idea to keep your dog away from the kitchen (especially the trash can) and the stairs. Proper puppy-proofing not only keeps your puppy safe but also gives you peace of mind.

Essential Puppy Supplies

Your new puppy will need certain items from the very start. Some are essential for your pup’s well-being, while others are quite helpful. Most important items include a leash and collar with identification, food and water bowls, and chew toys. You should also get a comfortable dog bed and, preferably, a crate or kennel.

Some of these items can last as your puppy ages but many of them will need to be replaced as your puppy grows. Collars may be adjustable up to a certain point. A kennel can be purchased in a larger size for the future but should be blocked off with boxes or other objects to make it the right size for the puppy.

It’s also important to properly prepare for the expenses associated with dog ownership. Create a budget and try to stick to it. Be sure to allow extra money in your budget for unexpected costs.

Choosing Your Puppy’s Food

Your puppy’s diet can make all the difference in its future health and well-being. Before you decide on puppy food, do your research. Talk to your vet, other pet professionals, and fellow dog owners. Remember that if the food you initially choose does not meet your expectations, you can gradually switch to another food.

In today’s dog-friendly world, the choices of diet seem endless. Some owners like to feed premium foods, while many feel that holistic/natural diets are best. Homemade and raw diets are also becoming increasingly popular.

While researching puppy food, consider the quality of ingredients, inclusion of proper nutrients, and taste. Make sure to choose a food that is appropriate for growth—not adult dog food or “maintenance” formulas. The food should be healthy for your puppy and your dog should enjoy eating it.

Keeping Your Puppy Healthy

Preferably, you will find a veterinarian before you get a puppy. Within a few days of taking your new puppy home, you should bring it to your vet for a general exam. Take steps to make it a good experience so your puppy will be less likely to fear the vet’s office.

Over the course of your puppy’s first six months, you will see a lot of your vet. This begins with puppy vaccines and usually leads to spaying or neutering. Typically, puppies should be spayed or neutered at around six months of age.

Your vet can help identify any potential health problems early on, and advise you on caring for your dog long-term. The initial visit also opens the doors of communication with you and your vet. To help keep your puppy’s expenses down, you may consider purchasing pet health insurance, which could cover up to 80 percent of your dog’s health care costs.

Puppy Vaccinations

Vaccines protect your puppy and other dogs from potentially fatal illnesses. Just like human babies, puppies (and kittens) need basic immunizations to take over when maternal antibodies fade. The puppy vaccination series is one of the most important aspects of your dog’s early life.

Unfortunately, pet vaccination has become controversial for those who fear vaccines in general. That’s part of the reason many vets are moving towards a three-year protocol (rather than annual) for adult dogs. However, when it comes to puppies, there is a different set of rules as the threat of vaccine-preventable diseases is extremely high for dogs. Not only may your new puppy die from these illnesses, but some of them can also be spread to humans.

Routine vaccine visits also allow your vet’s office to see your puppy every few weeks and monitor its growth and overall health. Talk to your vet about the best immunization plan for your puppy.

House Training Your New Puppy

House training is one of the first things you will teach your new puppy. This process can sometimes be quite arduous, though some puppies catch on earlier than others.

You should begin house-training as soon as you bring your puppy home, but it takes patience. Puppies are generally not able to control their bladders and bowels until about 12 weeks of age. If your puppy is younger than this, just be patient.

Starting early can help get your puppy into a routine. As your dog grows and develops control over its bodily functions, it will already know what to do. As a general rule, you should take your puppy to the designated “potty spot” immediately after eating or drinking. However, accidents happen, so be prepared, consistent, and patient.

Basic Puppy Training and Socialization

Beyond housebreaking, there are many more things you will need to teach your dog. Start by working on socialization. Next, leash training will set the stage for teaching basic commands, like sit, come, and stay. Teaching various basic commands can help you curb some behavior problems.

Just remember that puppies are curious, active, and teething. They put everything in their mouths, including your hands. Work with this by replacing the inappropriate object with an acceptable toy or safe chew. Distract your dog from mischievous behavior by offering something more pleasing, like a game, walk, or other activity. Reward your puppy with treats or praise for shifting his attention.

While puppy training can be a challenge, the outcome will make your efforts worthwhile. A solid foundation of training provides structure and gives your dog confidence. Well-trained dogs are happier dogs.

Bonding With Your Puppy

The bond you have with your puppy begins the moment it comes into your life and never stops growing. You can nurture this bond through affection, training, grooming, playtime, general exercise, and participation in various activities. You may want to join an obedience class, start training in dog sports like agility and flyball, or participate in dog shows.

One of the kindest ways to bond with your dog and allow your dog to bond with others is to get involved with animal-assisted therapy. If your puppy is right for therapy, it can begin training to visit people in hospitals and nursing homes or help children to read and learn. Strengthening and preserving the human-canine bond benefits the health and well-being of both you and your puppy.

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Puppy Teething

Article originally published on Greencross Vets. Refer to the original article here.

Introduction to puppy teething

Just like human babies, puppies are born with no teeth. Their first set of baby teeth, or milk teeth, grow in between 3 and 4 weeks of age. When your puppy is around 4-5 months old, these teeth will fall out to make room for their permanent set of adult teeth. By 5-7 months, all the adult teeth will be present. It is important to note this can vary depending on the breed.

This means that puppies experience teething twice, once for their milk teeth and again with their adult teeth. While teething is generally not a painful process for your puppy, they may experience some discomfort in their jaw at this time. The best way to help them alleviate this is to provide your puppy with specifically-designed soft chew toys. This will also prevent unwanted chewing of other objects around the house.

Puppy Teething Timeline

Signs your puppy is teething

  • red, inflamed gums
  • drooling and offensive breath
  • increased chewing behaviour – chewing is the most obvious sign that your puppy is teething and you can help them by providing them with safe toys and discouraging biting
  • bleeding gums – a small amount of bleeding from the gums is normal and you may find specks of blood on your puppy’s favourite chew toys
  • missing teeth – you may find these on the floor but it is also common and safe for your puppy to swallow these as they fall out
  • decreased appetite – puppies may eat slower or less as it causes them discomfort
  • puppy in lower mood than usual – some puppies may whine and fuss or be more irritable than usual

When is it necessary to see the vet?

Some puppies experience a slight fever while teething which should be monitored to ensure their temperature does not climb too high.

While teething often involves some bleeding from the gums as your puppy’s sharp teeth emerge, if you notice a large amount of blood, immediately seek professional assistance from your vet.

Before all your puppy’s adult teeth have grown in, you should book them in for a dental appointment at your local Greencross Vets for a precautionary checkup.

What to expect at the dental checkup

The vet will check your puppy for:

  • crooked teeth – this can be caused by two teeth coming in at one spot, or if a baby tooth has not fallen out when the adult tooth is emerging. This may be evident during their vaccination checkups
  • jaw misalignment – for some breeds with short muzzles, a slight underbite is normal However, if your puppy is showing signs of a strong underbite or overbite, vet intervention may be required to correct chewing and eating issues in the future. These conditions are best treated early
  • bad breath – this is not normal in dogs and may indicate that your puppy has a low grade infection
  • broken or cracked teeth – if a tooth has broken below the gum line and the nerve is exposed, your puppy will be in discomfort and may develop an infection
  • bleeding and swollen gums – this may be a sign of teething
  • tartar build up – while tartar build up is uncommon in puppies, it occasionally does happen. Implement a dental routine while your puppy is young to avoid dental diseases in the future
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Community Stories

All About Spitzes – Diet

Continuing on our series of Stories From The Community: All About Spitzes, this second article will be discussing the topic of diets – what are common foods they avoid as well as recommendations by our very own Spitz owners.

This article will feature the experiences & insights from the hoomans of Orithespitz, legendthespitz and hweeventures!

Q: What diet are your Spitzes on?

H: Hwee is currently on a 50% HCF & 50% Kibbles diet. She used to be really picky with her Kibbles so we introduced HCF to encourage her to eat more.

O: Ori is on an 80% HCF & 20% Kibbles. 

L: Legend is also currently on an 80% HCF & 20% Kibbles.

Q: Is there anything you avoid feeding them? Alternatively, what do you encourage them to eat?

H: We are very cautious and picky with what we feed Hwee. She is allergic to chicken so we naturally avoid that though it was pretty hard to find kibbles with no chicken by-products. Moreover, due to her previous pancreatitis flare up, we now have to keep her on a low fat diet. 

Hwee’s meals always consist of a good balance of lean meat/fish & veggies! We were advised to keep her meals within 20% of fat content, so we will always calculate the fat percentage for each of her meals. To keep the range within 20%, we will request for lean cuts from the butcher when preparing her meals. 

O: Ori is not picky or allergic to anything so I generally let him eat anything. But I avoid lamb because I don’t like the gamey smell. I’m also watchful of the amount of treats he eats, I definitely try to ensure he doesn’t eat too much.

L: We will avoid beef because Legend started to develop brown patches after we fed him canned beef in the past. We suspect it’s due to an allergic reaction. 

We would add salmon to his meals as it is a good source of protein and it helps to keep his skin healthy & shiny. We also feed him pumpkin as pumpkin helps to boost his immune system. On top of that, we try our best to incorporate fruits and veg into this diet. 

Q: Is there anything in particular that Spitzes should eat?

H: For Spitzes, coat care is very important so adding fur & coat supplements like fish oiI and coconut oil helps a lot with that!

And since they’re double coated, the Singapore weather may be too humid for them. Often, it leads to itching, scratching & hot spots! So I firmly believe in skin and coat supplements to help maintain a healthy coat condition. 

O: I would also recommend supplements for coat care. I usually add coconut oil, fish oil and other similar supplements to Ori’s diet whenever necessary. 

L: Spitz are prone to luxating patellas so it’s important to take preventive measures. We feed Legend Arthrix Plus as a joint supplement, Augustine Superboost, fish collagen and salmon oil supplements. Salmon oil helps with shedding and also promotes a shiny and healthy coat. This is especially good for them since they are a double coated breed.

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THE WOOF AGENCY would like to thank Orithespitz, legendthespitz and hweeventures for sharing about their experiences!

Stay tuned to next Stories from the Community, where we talk to owners of long-back dogs to learn more about how to care for them! 

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The Story of an Assistance Dog

Ever wondered what the life of an assistance/guide dog was like? The Woof Agency had the chance to speak to Isabella, a visually impaired woman who lives her life with O’Hara, her guide dog.

Read on to learn about how the process of obtaining a guide dog, key distinctions between the various types of assistive dogs, and some do’s and don’ts when it comes to interacting with them!

Could you tell us more about your story with O’Hara?

When I was 6-years-old I started losing my eyesight to a rare genetic juvenile form of macular degeneration, called Stargardt’s Disease. This disease is progressive, so after a few years of having it it made me be considered blind. Throughout my life, I have taken classes for the blind called Orientation and Mobility. These lessons are taught by a professional, and helps teach blind individuals how to travel independently, and use a white mobility cane. This was very important because in order to work with a guide dog, an individual must be blind and also must have exceptional mobility skills (know how to travel by themselves). In 2018 I trained at the campus of Guiding Eyes for the Blind in Yorktown Heights, New York for 3 weeks to learn how to work with O’Hara as a team.

I had to go through an extensive and detailed application process, in order to be considered to receive a guide dog. O’Hara was not specifically trained for me. However, she was trained for 2 years prior to us meeting on how to lead someone who is blind and be their eyes. We ended up being a great match, and have been working together ever since. 

What is Guiding Eyes?

Guiding Eyes for the Blind is a non-profit organization that has been training exceptional highly trained guide dogs (dogs trained to help lead the blind) since 1954. Through donations, volunteers, and word of mouth they are able to provide guide dogs to those with sight loss for free, despite the dog costing around USD$50,000 to breed, train, raise, and place with someone who is blind. 

What is an assistance/service dog? What are the different types of assistance/service dogs?

A service dog is a type of assistance animal (not all assistance animals are service animals) that is specifically trained to perform tasks/work that directly mitigates the disability of someone who is disabled.

Comfort and emotional support are helpful to those who need them, but do not legally qualify as trained work or tasks. Therefore therapy dogs and emotional support animals are not legally considered service dogs, and do not have the same legal protections as a service dog.

What are the tasks of an assistance/service dog?

Trained tasks/work can include, but is not limited to: Guiding someone who is blind, alerting someone before a medical episode happens, retrieving medication or reminding someone to take the medications, interrupting self harmful behaviour, finding help for someone who has had a medical episode, etc. O’Hara is a guide dog, which is a type of service dog that is trained to help lead those who are blind. Her tasks include helping me get from point A to point B, finding door/chairs/locations for me, stopping at street crossings/any change in footing/steps/curbs, guiding me around obstacles, and essentially being my eyes. 

How can a dog become an assistance/service dog?

Any breed of dog can be a service dog in the USA. The dog does not need to be professionally trained, but does need to be trained to meet the ADA’s (American’s with Disabilities Act) behavioural qualifications for a service dog. The dog needs to be house trained, temperament tested & and is not allowed to be/show aggression, know at least one task or be trained work that directly mitigates someone’s disability (cannot be comfort or support). They must be under the control of their handler at all times, and the handler must be classified as “disabled” by the ADA’s definition.  It is very hard to become a service dog, and training typically takes one and a half, to two years before a dog is considered “fully trained.”

Not every dog is capable of becoming a service dog, due to it being so difficult. It should be noted that training & the handler being disabled is what makes a service dog a service dog, not a vest. In the USA a service dog is not required to wear a vest, harness, or anything “identifying” them as a service dog. It is the training that makes them what they are. A normal dog could wear a vest, and that does not make them a service dog. Service dogs are considered medical equipment by federal law, and are not legally pets. 

Legally there are only two questions that can be asked in public, however they can only be asked if the answers are not obvious. The first question being “is that a service dog required because of  a disability?” The handler would answer that with a yes, or a no. No further details may be asked about that question. For example, it cannot be asked what that persons disability is. The second question is “what tasks or work is the dog trained to perform?” The handler would give whatever answers applies to them.

The tasks or work may not be asked to be demonstrated. Because the USA does not have a registry or certification for service dogs, someone is not allowed to “see ID, or papers.” If the person says their dog is for comfort, calms them down when they get upset, or is for support that is not a service dog, and therefore they can be asked to leave.

No dogs are allowed to ride in shopping carts, even if it is a service dog. The dog must be under control at all times, and may not be causing a disruption in business such as excessive barking. If you want to interact with a service dog, it is always best to ask before doing so. 

What are the dos & don’ts when people see a service dog in public?

If a handler says that it is not a good time, it is important to respect that and not take it personally. It is dangerous to the life of the handler, and the training of the dog to attempt to distract a service dog from working.

Examples of distraction include: petting without asking, talking to the dog without asking, making sounds at the dog like kiss noises, prolonged direct eye contact with the dog, feeding the dog, calling the dog’s name, whistling at the dog, or any form of attempting to get the dog’s attention.

Again, it is best to just ignore the dog and if you really want to interact it is essential to always ask first. The handler decides when the dog is not working, so even if the dog looks like it is just laying there it could be still performing its life saving job. It is equally important to note that service dogs get lots of  time to play , and to just be a dog when they are not working. Thee dogs are not forced to become a service dog, nor are they forced to stay a service dog. These dogs LOVE working, and are happy doing it. 

What are some misconceptions people have of service dogs?

Some misconceptions include:

Thinking service dogs are aggressive: In actual fact, they’re legally not allowed to be aggressive.

All types of assistive dogs are the same: This is false as well, as there are very different tests and procedures included and there are different requirements for each type of assistance animals.

Anyone can have a service dog: You need to not only have a disability, but also need to be considered “disabled” by the ADA’s definition.

Service dogs are pets/You only need ID’s to be considered service dogs: Not true, as you essentially need to have proper training in order to be classified as a service dog.

Additionally, not all service dogs are guide dogs, as there are many types of assistive dogs. It’s important to also note that stores are not allowed to deny a service dog access such as supermarkets or other commonly used places. However, they tend not to be allowed in more sterile locations such as hospital operating rooms or religious places of worship, based on the discretion of the person in charge.

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THE WOOF AGENCY would like to thank Isabella for sharing about her experiences with O’Hara & Guiding Eyes.

Enjoyed this article? Let us know what other stories you’d like to hear about in the comments below!

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Why Is My Cat Eating Litter?

Article originally published on The Spruce Pets. Written by Sally Bahner. Refer to the original article here.

Cats may eat litter—and other undesirable materials—for a variety of reasons. This behavior is referred to as pica, the eating of non-food items.

Pica has a variety of causes and may stem from a mom abandoning her kittens, which can manifest itself in nursing behavior. Cats with pica can target all types of materials: plastic, fabric, string, paper, dirt, and even litter.

Some forms of pica may be relatively harmless or annoying—such as licking plastic bags—but eating non-food substances can cause intestinal blockages. Also, it can be a sign of an illness.

Why Do Cats Eat Litter?

If your cat or kitten is eating litter, it could be either a health or behavior issue. If you suspect it’s a health issue, you should bring your cat to the veterinarian right away, especially if the behavior appears suddenly.

Some kittens may eat litter purely out of curiosity and will grow out of the behavior with close monitoring.

Anemia

Eating litter could be a sign that your cat is sick, and in particular, anemia is a condition where an affected cat could be exhibiting this sign. Anemia occurs when there is a lack of red blood cells and hemoglobin. Cat owners should check for gums that are pale, white, or bluish. Anemia can indicate a deficiency in iron, trace minerals, vitamins, or essential fatty acids.

Additionally, if your cat is eating litter, this could also be a sign of leukemia (which causes anemia in itself) or kidney disease.

Your veterinarian will perform a standard exam, including a complete blood count (CBC) and urinalysis. The blood count will determine if the cat indeed has anemia and the urinalysis will reveal the concentration level of the urine; urine that is too dilute is an indication of kidney disease. If your cat shows symptom of a blockage, your veterinarian will do radiographs or an MRI.

Nutritional Deficiencies

Your cat could be eating litter if it’s not getting sufficient nutrition from its food. Deficiencies in Vitamin A, Vitamin B1 (Thiamine), L-Carnitine, Magnesium, Pyruvate Kinase, Sodium, and/or Taurine may also trigger litter eating in cats. Clay-based litters contain minerals, which may compensate for the deficiency. Your veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist can recommend dietary changes or supplements.

Curious Kittens

Kittens may eat litter out of curiosity, so it’s recommended not to use clumping litter until they are older. Ingesting clumping litter may cause an intestinal blockage. Be sure to use a non-toxic litter and monitor use. Remove your kitten from the litter box if you see it’s eating the litter—just be sure your kitten has finished its business first.

Adult cats may also snack on litter if the type of litter has been changed recently, for instance, to a wheat- or corn-based litter.

How to Stop Your Cat From Eating Litter

Once your cat has received a clean bill of health, you can concentrate on redirecting his behavior from eating the litter. Of course, there are many types of litter: clay, clumping (scented and unscented), corn-, wheat-, or paper-based. If your cat is eating one kind, try another.

  • Your cat may be bored. If you see it eating litter, redirect the behavior with play. Toss a crinkle ball or toy mouse, or dangle a fishing pole toy and lure him away from the box.
  • Reevaluate your cat’s diet. Upgrade the food you’re feeding, especially if it’s a supermarket-grade dry food. Many high-quality food options are more nutritionally complete.
  • Enhance your cat’s natural prey behavior. In addition to ramping up playtime, look into food puzzle toys, which encourage natural foraging behavior. There are many ways to make your own using common household items, as well as different models available in pet stores. Puzzle toys are fun ways for your cat to work to get its food, thus distracting it from undesirable behavior.
  • Try offering a pot of cat grass. Again, this is a distraction from the litter and gives your cat something else to chew on. And don’t forget that happy cat standby—catnip. You can grow your own and offer it fresh, sprinkle it on scratchers, or buy catnip-filled toys.
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Community Stories

Help Your Cat Beat the Heat

Article originally published on The Spruce Pets. Written by Franny Syufy. Refer to the original article here.

You know the drill: the sun is blinding, relentlessly beating down like something out of an old Western movie. If you don’t have air conditioning, you seek out shady spots and sigh in relief from the slightest breeze, otherwise, you huddle inside. If you stay in the sun too long you may become dizzy, have heart palpitations, and increased internal temperature, all signs of impending heat exhaustion.

Consider this: before you ever reach that point, your cat may also be showing signs of heat exhaustion or heat stroke. Although heat stroke is more commonly discussed in dogs, because of people’s propensity to leave them in parked cars, cats can be affected too. Cats can’t always tell you they’re not feeling up to par, but they sure can show you. Early symptoms of heat stroke and the accompanying dehydration are:

  • Panting
  • Anxiety, possibly demonstrated by pacing
  • Increased heartbeat
  • Respiratory distress or hyperventilation (Breeds with flat noses, such as Persians, may exhibit this earlier because of compromised airways.)
  • Dark red gums
  • Lethargy
  • Increased internal body temperature Your cat’s internal temperature should be between 100.5 and 101.5 F. A temperature of 104 For more is a definite warning sign.

How to Help Your Cat Avoid Heatstroke

You can help your cat survive extremely hot weather by keeping him indoors in a cool interior room. Rubbing him down with a damp towel will help; so will immersing his feet in a tub of cool water. Wrapping a cold compress under the cat’s neck will also help cool him off. He may fight at first, but most likely will appreciate it once he gets used to the idea. Try wrapping a plastic bag of frozen peas in a towel, and place in his bed for a cool spot to lie. The peas will rearrange themselves to fit his contours and he’ll have a “custom spa” for cooling off.

Drying the cat
 Jill Ferry Photography / Getty Images

Provide Fresh Cool Water

The optimum water bowl is an automatic water dispenser. There is a variety of them on the market, but after testing many over the years, I have returned time and again to my favorite, the Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain I have three of them in my home – one in the dining room, one in my bedroom and one in my son’s bedroom. As anyone who has ever dipped a toe in a mountain spring knows, fresh, flowing water stays naturally cool.

Lacking an automated fountain, make sure your cat has several bowls of cool water available. It doesn’t hurt to drop an ice cube in once in a while, not only to cool the water but to pique kitty’s interest in drinking.

Strangely enough, cats affected by external heat may refuse to drink water, exacerbating the problem of dehydration, so you may want to “force” water by using an eyedropper or syringe. Be careful not to shoot the water down his throat as it can enter his lungs and/or cause choking. Just dribble a drop or two at a time in the corner of his mouth, which will help hydrate him and draw his interest to drinking on his own.

If your cat exhibits any of the signs above that lead you to think he is suffering heat exhaustion, cool him down as quickly as possible by immersing him in cool water, and then wrapping him with wet towels. Then get him to the veterinarian immediately. This is a serious, potentially fatal condition.

Cat Drinking Water From Metallic Bowl In Back Yard
 Friederike Von Gilsa / EyeEm / Getty Images

Sunburn

White cats, or cats with white ears and faces, are particularly susceptible to sunburn. Over a period of time, repeated exposure to the sun can cause squamous cell carcinoma, cancer found most often on the tips of the ears and nose. Early signs are a sore that does not heal, or that bleeds. My own introduction to squamous cell carcinoma was with our beloved little white cat, Arthur, who died of it at 18 years. Because of her age, we were reluctant to allow either surgery or chemotherapy, the two treatments of choice, and she passed on about three months after being diagnosed.

White cats should be kept out of the direct sun as much as possible, and if they must be in the sun, you can help them prevent sunburn by using a sunscreen on their ears and noses. Your veterinarian can recommend one which will not be harmful if ingested.

The sun is a powerful giver of life and still worshiped by people all over the world, but it is not always your cat’s best friend. Be aware of his condition on sweltering summer days, and if you have any doubts at all, get him to the veterinarian immediately. You are your cat’s first line of defense with health issues.

Disclaimer: I am not a veterinarian. This article is meant only to give you a starting place to do your own research so you can make an informed decision, should it ever become necessary.

White cat lazing on white shelf in the sunshine.
 Moggy / Getty Images

If you suspect your pet is sick, call your vet immediately. For health-related questions, always consult your veterinarian, as they have examined your pet, know the pet’s health history, and can make the best recommendations for your pet.

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6 Home Remedies for Fleas on Cats

Article originally published on The Spruce Pets. Written by Jennifer Lesser. Refer to the original article here.

Fleas can be a natural (and unpleasant) part of life with a pet. Fortunately, between over-the-counter sprays, powders, and flea collars, there are endless solutions to help eradicate a flea problem in your home. However, while commercial flea medications and treatments can certainly help tame a flea problem in your cat, there are also an array of do-it-yourself approaches that cat owners can take to banish the bugs without the use of chemicals or potential side effects to your cat or other members of your family. If you’ve already had a consultation with your veterinarian regarding your feline flea problem, here are some at-home remedies you can try that may help get rid of your cat’s flea problem for good.

Before trying any of these at-home remedies on your cat, consult your veterinarian, who will know best which route you should take.

Cedar Chips

It’s a known fact that fleas hate the smell of cedar chips—and there’s a chance your cat may not be too fond of it, either. However, you can try spreading cedar chips around your cat’s bedding or outdoors in your garden. You can also apply cedar oil spray on your cat’s fur, as it is a safe, non-toxic essential oil, or put a few drops on a banana peel or even your cat’s collar to help keep the bugs at bay.

Lemons

One of the most effective natural flea killers is citric acid, which makes lemon juice a widely-recognized home remedy for treating fleas. You can spray your cat’s coat with a solution made by boiling a cut lemon or two (let the lemons steep for a few hours) and then draining the liquid before transferring it to a spray bottle. Work the solution gently into your car’s fur—just be sure to avoid his or her eyes, and monitor your pet for redness or other signs of irritation—and repeat the treatment as often as needed until the fleas are gone entirely.

If your cat hates water—as most cats do—you can also try using a comb dipped into the solution and brushing the fleas out. If you’re concerned about any leftover fleas and flea eggs, add a cup of lemon juice to your laundry while washing your pet’s bedding to help exterminate any remaining bugs.

Spices

One of the easiest things you can do for a flea-infested cat is to spice up their life with natural ingredients you might find in your kitchen. Because of a natural compound known as carvacrol, oregano oil can be very effective at removing fleas; start by mixing one teaspoon of oregano oil with three teaspoons of olive oil and apply small amounts of the solution to areas where fleas tend to congregate, like your cat’s ears, stomach, tail, and neck. Fleas also don’t particularly care for rosemary; try grinding the leaves into a powder and sprinkling it in the areas where your cat tends to hang out in your home.

If your cat won’t allow you to apply topical treatments to his or her fur, you can try mixing a small amount (less than a teaspoon) of cumin into your cat’s food. The spice will make your cat’s skin become very unappetizing to fleas.

If you don’t have any of these spices on hand, a little bit of table salt can also do the trick, as it helps dehydrate and kill the fleas on your cat. Better yet, it works to kill fleas and flea eggs that may be lurking in your carpet (just sprinkle it on), or when mixed with water, it can be used to treat hard surfaces.

Warning

These spices are a safe alternative to garlic powder, which can be toxic to cats in large doses.

Apple Cider Vinegar

Another grocery store product that fleas don’t particularly enjoy is apple cider vinegar. While it’s not effective at killing the bugs, apple cider vinegar can cause fleas to jump from your cat’s body so that you can better tackle the issue, making it a great first attack in your personal war against fleas. Try mixing the apple cider vinegar with water in a 2:1 ratio and spraying it onto your cat’s coat. Fleas can be a stubborn bunch, so you may have to undergo a few home treatments of applying the vinegar to your cat’s fur in order to become completely flea-free.

You’ll also want to be sure to vacuum all floors and upholstery (and immediately dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag), wash all bedding in hot water, and consider removing pet food bowls, bird feeders, garbage cans and any other sources of food from your yard so as to not attract wildlife who can re-infect your pet.

Dish Soap

Believe it or not, even the most gentle formulations of dish soap have proven to be very effective at exterminating fleas. The dish soap breaks down the flea’s exoskeleton and kills them within minutes, even after it’s been diluted in water. Simply wet your cat’s coat—a spray bottle will do the trick— and gently lather the dish soap into his or her fur (focusing on areas that fleas tend to hide) before rinsing.

To use dish soap to trap and kill fleas that have made your home their permanent residence, you can try filling a shallow dish with warm, soapy water and placing it close to a source of light. They’ll be drawn towards the light and drown in the liquid.

Lavender and Chamomile

A gentle way to soothe your pet’s skin—and maybe even help him or her take a little cat nap—lavender is actually a powerful, fast-acting agent against fleas. In fact, some studies have shown that formulas containing diluted lavender were just as effective at killing fleas as commercial chemical sprays. To put lavender to good use in your home, let fresh lavender steep in water overnight before straining the liquid and spraying it onto your cat’s coat (no need to rinse).

Another compound that’s known for soothing the skin, loose chamomile tea can also be used to attack fleas on your feline friend. Simply steep the tea and, after it’s fully cooled, apply the liquid to your cat’s coat. You can repeat both treatments daily for as long as needed.

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Community Stories

7 Signs That Your Cat Is in Pain

Article originally published on The Spruce Pets. Written by Tabitha Kucera RVT, CCBC, KPA-CTP. Refer to the original article here.

It can be difficult to tell if your cat is in pain for many reasons. Cat owners may often miss the subtle signs of pain in their cats or do not notice until their cats are showing more obvious signs, such as loss of appetite and lethargy. In some cases, cats only show more obvious symptoms after being ill for an extended period of time or if they are very ill. By the time you actually notice something is wrong with your cat, it might have been going on for longer than you think.

Although no one likes to think about their pets living with pain, it is important to be able to notice telltale signs of pain in cats, so that you can take the necessary steps to provide comfort and prevent medical issues from worsening.

It Can Be Difficult to Tell If a Cat Is in Pain

Cats are experts at hiding illness. This is in part because cats are both prey and predator animals, and in the wild, not showing pain can protect them from predators or other cats that might be a threat. Showing signs of pain makes them more vulnerable to attacks.

It can also be difficult for your veterinarian to notice signs of pain because of cats hiding their pain due to fear and stress, which is common during veterinary visits. Your cat may also go into fight or flight mode, which can cause a decrease in pain perception.

Signs of Pain

When cats are dealing with pain, similar to humans, it can affect their behavior. In fact, cats often show behavioral changes prior to physical symptoms.

It is important for you to know your cat’s normal temperament and behavior. This includes your cat’s normal attitude, energy level, gait, appetite, sleep patterns, thirst, and other physical and behavior patterns. Just the slightest change could be a sign that your cat is sick or in pain. Since your cat cannot tell you it’s in pain, your veterinarian relies on you to determine if there are any abnormal behavior patterns that may be pain-related. If your cat is just not acting like itself, this can be a sign that they are experiencing pain.

Note: Changes in your cats’ daily habits should not always be contributed to aging. Age is not a disease, but as your cat ages, they are more likely to be suffering from pain.

Grooming Changes

You may notice that your cat is not grooming itself or if it does groom itself, it only focuses on its face and the front of its body. Cats are meticulous cleaners, so be aware of your cat’s grooming habits have changed or you notice that its coat is unkempt.

Behavioral Changes

Your cat may be more withdrawn and even start hiding. Our cats are bonded to us and like to be engaged and present where we are. When your cat is suddenly not greeting you at the door, not sleeping with you, and other engaging behaviors that are normal, this may be a sign that something’s wrong.

Less Activity and Low Energy

You may notice that your cat has less energy or decreased stamina to engage in previously enjoyable activities, such as playing with toys or chasing that red dot. Your cat may be reluctant to jump, walk up and down stairs, have difficulty getting up from laying down, exhibit restlessness, and have difficulty finding a comfortable place to rest. You may also notice changes in sleeping patterns—the cat may sleep more or less and may sleep in unusual positions and places.

Litter Box Changes

Cats commonly will miss the litter boxes due to the pain associated with going in and out of the litter box, as well as difficulty squatting. Holding the squatting position can be very difficult for a cat with sore hips or knees. Other medical issues can cause cats to not use the litter box due to pain and urgency associated with them.

Increased Irritability

Cats in pain can also uncharacteristically have episodes of aggression. A cat may begin to growl or hiss when people or other pets in the household approach it, may not be comfortable with being held and may resent being brushed or combed. They may bite or scratch, too, especially when a person touches or moves the painful area or if the cat anticipates you doing it.

Changes in Appetite and Water Intake

Cats who are experiencing pain may lose interest in eating and drinking. If you notice any changes in your cat’s eating and drinking habits, be sure to alert your veterinarian. This can be a sign of pain and various other serious medical issues.

Posture

A cat in a lot of pain will appear as if it’s trying to curl up into a ball or will sit hunched over in a guarded, crouched position with its back curved higher than normal, its head lowered, and front paws often folded under it. You may notice that once it lays down, the cat keeps its legs tucked up underneath itself instead of stretching out on its side. It may avoid or have difficulty engaging in scratching behaviors.

What to Do If You Suspect Your Cat Is in Pain

Do not give pain medications designed for humans or dogs to cats. Cats process drugs very differently from other species. Common pain medications used in humans can cause death in cats. Always seek veterinary care and consult your veterinarian for an appropriate pain therapy plan. Consult your veterinarian and address potential pain rather than letting your cat suffer in silence. Our cat companions rely on us to speak for them, so monitor your cats closely and alert the veterinarian to any concerns.