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Senior Cat Care – Caring For Mature, Senior, and Geriatric Cats

Article originally published on Cat Care Center. Written by Dr Lacie Lee. Refer to the original article here.

Understanding the Changing Health Needs of Mature, Senior, and Geriatric Cats

If you have lived with your cat since they were young, you have a good understanding of what is normal for your cat in terms of their behavior and daily habits. Any changes in their behavior or patterns can be a sign of illness. Because symptoms of disease in cats can be so subtle, even the most astute owner may miss some of these changes, especially when the onset is so gradual. For this reason, it is imperative to bring your cat to your veterinarian annually until 8 years of age and then semi-annually after 8.

During the visit with Dr. Lacie and our staff, you will review habits and behavior that may signal health changes. This review will prompt you to think about what is going on with your cat and have a different perspective, which may help identify signs of illness. Also, Dr. Lacie will perform a thorough physical exam, which will play a significant role in determining where your cat is in the aging process and what to do to keep them as healthy as possible for as long as possible.

A focus of senior cat veterinary appointments is to identify illnesses that may be in an early stage and set up a plan for treatment and management of any symptoms that may be causing discomfort. There are many illnesses that can be managed with diet, and sometimes medications may significantly improve the wellbeing of your cat. It is through the partnership of the cat owner and veterinary team that we can best address and manage senior cat issues for the best outcome.

AAFP – Caring for Your Older Cat

What Are Some Specific Age-Related Issues for Senior Cats?

Senior cat care is defined by life stage guidelines. However, it’s important to remember that definitions aren’t hard and fast, and some of our cats get older sooner, and some of them get older later. So these life stage guidelines need to be considered on a case by case basis. It’s an individual consideration that you and your veterinarian will determine together but, typically, the ages and life stages are:

  • Adult -10 and 11
  • Senior – 11 to 14
  • Geriatric – 15+

And as cats start to age, there are some unique things that you’re going to start to need to think about, including behavior changes, nutritional changes, specific veterinary medical changes that’ll need to be addressed, and home environment changes. By looking at senior and geriatrics cats from an overarching view like this, you can address all of these categories and help them enter their golden years as healthy and pain-free as possible.

Changes in the cat’s body that are common as a cat ages include:

  • Altered sleep-wake cycle
  • Changes in thyroid function
  • A decrease in kidney function
  • Changes in vision
  • Decreased sense of smell
  • Brittle or ingrown nails
  • Heart or circulatory problems
  • Decreased digestion and ability to absorb nutrients
  • Reduced ability to handle stress
  • Changes in mobility/arthritis (AAFP – Degenerative Joint Disease)

What kinds of preventative care can help extend the life and health of my cat?

Establishing a good relationship with your veterinarian and veterinary practice is essential in preventing disease in cats. My Cat Care Center staff is extremely valuable to me. These guys know your cats, and they know your cats so well that they are going to pick up on when something is not quite right. They also learn their blood works and what your cat needs on a biannual or annual basis. This relationship between you, your veterinary staff, and the doctor and you is so critical, and that’s something that needs to be established early on—not necessarily when they turn 10 or 11.

When your veterinarian makes recommendations and they have valid reasons that they go over with you, let them do the blood work, the urinalysis, and take the blood pressure. We start that early on at Cat Care Center, and we do that for two reasons. Number one, that’s where we’re going to determine the normals for your cat. Number two, we’re going to get your cat used to being handled in a feline-friendly way. We also make sure we handle cats extra carefully as they age. By all means, establish a bond and a preventative maintenance package with your veterinarian.

What is My Role as the Caretaker of an Elderly Cat?

The most important role when caring for your elderly cat is being aware of their behavior and habits. Their needs may change subtly over the years, but they still require cat care basics, including social interaction and an enriched environment. While older cats may sleep more, they still need play and a stimulating environment to keep their bodies active and their minds engaged. Cats of all ages need a stimulating environment to stay healthy. Especially for indoor cats, the need for engagement is very important. All cats need to hunt and play and interact.

In addition to a stimulating environment, owners of elderly cats can expect to be responsible for things like:

  • Make sure sleeping and eating areas are easily accessible
  • Adjust physically challenging areas for easy access
  • More frequent veterinary visits
  • Dispensing medication
  • Lifestyle accommodations

Understanding your expanded role in the life of your elderly cat is essential to helping them age gracefully. At your next appointment, Dr. Lacie and our staff would be happy to give you some insight and guidance on how to ensure your cat enjoys a smooth transition into their elderly years.

What Should I Know About Wellness Visits for Senior Cats?

The American Association of Feline Practitioners recommends that a veterinarian sees senior cats every six months. Because cats age faster than people, that means almost two kitty years will pass between visits. It is important to monitor elderly cats in between visits because cats are very good at hiding symptoms of disease or illness. As cats age, illnesses become increasingly common. Therefore, it is reasonable to expect that mature cats, senior cats, and geriatric cats will likely begin to develop one or more conditions that will significantly affect their quality of life.

A typical wellness visit for senior cats includes checking:

  • A thorough review of habits and behaviors
  • Weight and body condition
  • Skin and coat quality
  • Mouth, gums, and teeth
  • Ears and eyes
  • Thyroid gland palpation
  • Heart and circulatory system
  • Lungs and nose
  • Abdomen
  • Joints and muscles
  • Blood pressure check
  • Bloodwork and urine testing
  • Any condition changes since the last visit

Here at Cat Care Center, we usually recommend what’s called senior wellness blood work. That is a full chemistry panel that includes—all the kidney values, SDMA, and liver values. We do a CBC. Sometimes we do a PCV because, when cats are nervous, their blood clots a little bit. We always double-check everything that we’re doing here. Getting their blood pressure and a urinalysis are also important. The urinalysis is particularly crucial because we’re trying to detect kidney disease early on. We always do everything as feline friendly as we can.

We also will recheck our feline leukemia FIV status at different life stages, because, with the new 2020 guidelines, some of those viruses have changed, and it’s important that we keep up to date with that. We monitor fecal and, other than that, we just do a good exam. There’s just nothing that can take the place of a great exam, and knowledge of that client.

Additionally, wellness visits for senior cats can also include vaccinations, parasite prevention, and treatment for any specific conditions that your senior cat may be developing.

What is Considered Senior Cat Food?

Feline nutrition is essential throughout the entirety of a cat’s life. However, it is an incredibly important facet of senior cat care.

Feeding a mature, senior, or geriatric cat an age-specific diet can help:

  • Manage weight
  • Increase lifespan
  • Maintain healthy skin, coat, and bodily functions

Senior cat food is formulated specifically for the nutritional requirements of aging cats. Serve it in dry or wet (preferably wet) form. Because aging cats require increased daily water intake, serving canned food and/or leaving multiple water dishes around the house is always a good idea when possible. Feeding small, frequent meals 3-4 times a day will help senior cats digest food easier than serving fewer, larger meals.

How do a cat’s nutritional needs change as they age?

One of the things that happens as cats age is that they don’t absorb their food as well, and they also can’t tolerate large meals. We forget about the free radical damage that we experience on a daily basis, well, they do too. In other words, they’re mentally aging as well. Senior or geriatric cats don’t often remember where the food bowl is, so some of them will overeat just to overeat. They’ll start to vomit, as they don’t absorb it as well.

You need to change the nutritional content because older cats are going to need a little bit more protein, which is an interesting point in feline medicine right now, and there’s a lot of research out there. It used to be said that, as the kidneys slowed down, maybe we should restrict their protein. There are now a lot of questions about that, as one of the aspects of aging is muscle loss, and cats are obligate carnivores, so they need protein.

So there’s a balance that needs to be found, and this is often needed with specific calculations from your veterinarian. Feeding small meals throughout the day, often incorporating canned food if your cat will tolerate that, is a great way to strike that balance. And sometimes they need an easily digestible diet for their nutritional needs because their digestive system is not working the same as it did when they were younger.

What is Involved in Dental Care For Senior Cats?

As cats enter their senior years, those who have addressed dental care with regular dental checkups throughout their life have a significant advantage over cats who have ignored their dental issues. Regardless of whether dental care has been a mainstay of your cat’s preventative program, it will be vital as they age. Dental disease is a gradual but painful degenerative condition. Living with chronic pain is very stressful and will significantly impact your cat’s wellbeing. Of course, your cat won’t let you know that they are in pain, however.

The fact is that almost all cats over three years of age have some level of oral health issues, and these conditions do cause significant pain. Early onset dental recommended prophylaxis by your veterinarian is a great way to do everything you possibly can to slow down dental disease. If your cat has not had a dental checkup in over a year, they are due. Schedule an appointment today.

How Does My Veterinarian Manage Disease In Elderly Cats?

As your cat ages, they become more susceptible to the myriad of diseases commonly found to plague elderly cats.

Some of the more common diseases that cat might experience as they age include:

  • Kidney Disease
  • Diabetes
  • Thyroid Disease
  • Hypertension
  • Gastrointestinal Issues
  • Arthritis
  • Cancer
  • Memory/Comprehension Challenges

Of the four big categories that I see here at Cat Care Center, chronic kidney disease is a big one. Number two is hyperthyroidism. It is the most common endocrine disease that we do see in a cat, and I think the rate in cats is somewhere around 11%. The next one is diabetes. That’s another important one, especially for some cats that have been heavy. Males are more predisposed than females, but that’s not always the case. And then the fourth is GI disease, whether it’s inflammatory bowel disease, allergies that develop, or even cancer, and also have to look out for GI lymphomas and some of these other cancers.

Life stage preventative management is very important to us here at Cat Care Center, which means having various blood works done at the different life stages, year to year along the way.

Managing disease, whether this means preventing or treating one or more at a time, requires a knowledge of the ailment, and also spotting symptoms and changes in elderly cats before they become full-blown emergencies.

It’s essential to monitor your cat’s behavior and routine and note any changes, including:

  • Weight Loss
  • Change in Thirst and Urination
  • Diarrhea
  • Vomiting
  • Appetite Changes
  • Litter Box Habits
  • Lethargy
  • Any Behavioral Changes

When my patients reach that senior category around that 10-year age range, I ask them to come in twice a year. They don’t have to do blood work every year, and they’re not necessarily getting vaccinations every year, but we’re at least putting our hands on them and repeating blood work that’s showing patterns.

If you witness or suspect any changes in behavior or routine for your mature, senior, or geriatric cat, we recommend making an appointment at Cat Care Center immediately.

What are some signs and symptoms that my cat may be slowing down?

One sign of a cat slowing down is sleeping more, which can be a tricky thing to look for, as we all know that cats sleep a lot, especially when we’re not home. But you’ll want to watch for a change in their sleeping patterns. Perhaps they’re awake more in the evening than they used to be over the last several years, or they’re waking up in the middle of the night. One of the most common things that I hear in my practice is people are listening to their cats howl. That’s a very important thing to discuss with your veterinarian because there are several causes of that.

The second thing to watch for is the hesitation to jump up and/or jump down because we know from research that 92% of cats above the age of 10 have arthritis. Sadly, the number one sign of pain in a cat that I experience here at Cat Care Center is no obvious sign at all. That’s scary when you think about that because one of the things we want as pet owners is to love them and we want them to be comfortable. So watch signs of jumping changes, behavior changes, sleep/wake patterns, and eating changes. All of those things are considerations when discussing with your veterinarian if your cat is potentially aging and does need some changes that they might be able to help you with.

What is the most important thing to know about caring for a senior cat?

The most important thing is, congratulations, because for them to be with you into their senior years is really special. That means they’ve been with you through some of life’s biggest challenges, they’ve been with you through maybe marriages, kids, et cetera, so you have a special bond there. So number one, acknowledge that bond, and remember that when they get older, things change with them. Their behavior changes—they could be less needy or more needy. Give them the time that they need. Also, make sure you have a good established veterinarian that’s with you every step of the way, to help you think about the things that you may not be thinking about.

As someone that has a 20 year old Persian who I love dearly, Millie, I just thank God every single day that I have this beautiful cat that has been with me through every child I’ve had, through my marriage, through veterinary school, through moving, and I’m so grateful for that bond. So I think the most important aspect is loving them, taking care of them as best as you can. Every day is a gift. Having a good veterinary care staff that’s going to think about arthritis, pain, dental disease, diet, nutrition, and behavioral changes is essential.

Here at Cat Care Center, I have a senior cat checklist, and I go through things that change. We talk about everything in your home that may need to change—from the way you feed them and how their litter box is managed to how you handle their sleep/wake patterns. It takes a village when it comes to senior cat care, we all know that.

What Are the Considerations For Quality of Life for Senior And Geriatric Cats?

Partnering with your veterinarian is the best way to enjoy your cat’s senior years and allow your cat to age gracefully and comfortably. During your regular visits, quality of life issues will be addressed. Along the way, you will make health decisions for your cat with the help and guidance of Dr. Lacie. At some point, you may be confronted with serious health issues and may need to address the need for diagnostic testing and possibly procedures for your geriatric cat.

Some important health assessment questions you and your vet will review regarding senior cat quality of life include:

  • Is your cat experiencing any pain and, if so, is the pain well managed?
  • Is your cat’s appetite normal and are they able to eat normally?
  • Is your cat interacting with other pets and family members as usual?
  • Does your cat have more good days than bad days?
  • Does your cat follow predictable routines for sleeping, resting, grooming, eating, playing, and socializing?

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Community Stories

Kitten Care: Must-Know Tips for Raising Kittens

Article originally published on Petfinder. Written by Jennifer Sellers. Refer to the original article here.

When it comes to raising kittens, the philosophy is pretty similar to that of bringing up children. If you provide proper care and training when they’re young, it increases the odds they’ll grow up to be healthy, well-adjusted adults. So if you recently adopted a kitten, start incorporating this advice as soon as possible.

1) Don’t Treat Your Kitten Like an Adult Cat

Just as a human infant has vastly different needs than a teenager, a kitten will have care requirements distinct from those of a fully matured cat. In addition, you should consider a kitten’s various stages of development when caring for her:

  • Under eight weeks of age. At this early age, a kitten should still be with her mother and litter mates. Because kittens this young are unable to regulate their own temperatures, they rely on one-another’s body heat to survive. In addition, they are still developing vision and leg coordination. If you adopt or foster an orphan kitten in this age group, special care will need to be taken, including bottle-feeding the kitten for every two hours up to four weeks of age and possibly helping your kitten pee and poop. It’s best to consult with a veterinarian for specific instructions and advice.
  • Eight to eleven weeks of age. Kittens are usually weaned by eight weeks and should be eating kitten diet, which needs to be energy dense, rich in protein and highly digestible. Whether choosing dry kibble or wet food, be sure it is formulated for kittens. Other big changes will start occurring during this period as well. As your kitten begins developing complex motor skills she will become a force of nature — running, jumping, playing and exploring. This is a delightful period of kittenhood, but also one that can be dangerous to your kitten if she isn’t appropriately supervised.  Start setting boundaries for your kitten and keep her in a safe, enclosed room while you can supervise her.
  • Two to four months of age. This is a phase of rapid growth for kittens in which they’ll have almost three times more energy than an adult cat. They’ll need three to four individual meals a day during this time. According to Vetstreet.com, these meals should be minimum 30 percent high-quality protein.
  • Four to six months of age. Kittens in this age group are reaching adolescence and, thus, sexual maturity. Talk to a veterinarian about having your kitten spayed or neutered before your kitten reaches this stage to avoid unpleasant habits like territorial spraying and accidental litters.

2) Reward Good Behavior and Socialize, Socialize, Socialize

The socialization and training your cat receives during kittenhood will affect how well she will likely interact with people and other animals when she’s older. “I remember the first time I fostered kittens and how worried I was about scaring them,” says Jane Harrell. “What I didn’t know was that that was a critical socialization period for them and not exposing them to things made them more nervous as adults. Now when I foster kittens I do everything I can to get them exposed to as much as possible – loud noises, walking on leashes, strangers, you name it! It all helps them become better-adjusted, healthy adult cats.” Just makre sure your kittens have a positive experience out of any socialization exposure you provide them.

As a new kitten’s parent, it will be up to you to guide her and show her that the world is a wonderful place. Consider trying some of these training and socialization methods:

  • Kittens will generally use litter boxes by instinct, however you can help teach her to use it by placing her in the box after meals and play sessions. Make sure the litter box is always available to your kitten and cleaned frequently
  • Pet her frequently
  • Get her used to weekly combing and grooming.
  • Introduce her to toys
  • Allow her to experience different walking surfaces (carpet, linoleum, etc.)
  • Take her outside on a lead or in her carrier (It can be very dangerous to allow a kitten outside without one.) However, before providing any outdoor exposure be sure your veterinarian has administered the proper vaccines and enough time has passed for your kitten to build immunity.
  • Give her objects to explore, such as boxes and paper bags
  • Play loud music and make noise
  • Have friends over and ask them to play with her and give her treats
  • Provide appropriate scratching alternatives (such as scratching posts) and reward her with toys, praise or treats when she uses them
  • Do not allow her to bite or scratch during play. If she does, redirect her attention to a toy.
  • Expose her to other cats and kittens (as soon as they’re up to date on vaccinations, of course!). There are even kitten socialization classes; do an internet search to see if any are available in your area.
  • Take your kitten on car rides, giving her treats the whole time, and get her used to her carrier.
  • Reward friendly behavior with treats or praise.
  • Do not reprimand bad behavior, instead, ignore her when she displays inappropriate behavior.
  • Challenge your kitten to think by teaching her tricks.
  • Always be patient

3) Make Preventive Care a Priority

To help ensure your kitty has a lifetime of good health, start early in providing her with preventive care:

  • Schedule an appointment early. No matter what, schedule your kitten’s first vet appointment within a week of getting her. Early and frequent vet visits will help socialize your kitten with the vet and help the vet establish a baseline for your kitten’s health.
  • Ask about intestinal parasites, fleas and heartworm. Have a veterinarian check your kitten for worms and intestinal parasites, and have her de-wormed, if necessary. And while heartworms aren’t as much of a problem for cats as they are for dogs, some kittens may be susceptible, so also ask your vet if he or she recommends a heartworm preventative. The biggest parasitic threat to your kitten, however, is fleas. You can start administering topical flea preventatives when your kitten is around 8 to 12 weeks of age — although some brands are formulated for kittens as young as 4 weeks old.
  • Ask which vaccinations your kitten needs and how often: Preventive care for kittens may include vaccines for feline leukemia, rabies and distemper. These shots are usually first administered when a kitten is around 8 weeks of age, with boosters given every few weeks until she reaches 16 weeks of age. After that, your veterinarian can set her up on an adult vaccination schedule. He or she may also recommend additional vaccinations.

These building blocks will give your kitten the best possible start in life, but don’t forget that she’ll still need plenty of attention and care when she gets older.

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Community Stories

How to Take Care of Kittens

Article originally published on Blue Buffalo. Refer to the original article here.

Adopting a kitten or just thinking it over?  There’s probably nothing better than taking home a wide-eyed, velvet-nosed ball of fluff (hey, who’s rescuing who?) but even if you’ve had a kitten before, it’s wise to review the basics.

Best age to adopt

Separating kittens from their biological moms and siblings is best when they’re 10 to 12 weeks old. If the litter hasn’t had much human contact, however, it’s better to bring them home at six to seven weeks old.

As for personality, this may be one time when curiosity doesn’t kill the cat: look for an inquisitive kitten who’s playful, not shy. Above all, pick a cat-itude that complements all family members.

Pre-kitten prep

Before you introduce Kitty to her new surroundings, safely stow items she might chew, swallow or choke on. Keep tissues, paper towels, toilet paper, pens, pencils, rubber bands, jewelry, balloons, and small items out of paw’s reach. If you have other pets, be sure they’ve seen the veterinarian recently so they won’t be sharing an infection with their new sibling.

More cat-proofing tips:

  • Anchor window cords, cap outlets and bundle electronic cords
  • Call the Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435) for a list of deadly plants to avoid
  • Lock acetaminophen (Tylenol) away; it’s deadly to felines
  • Hide roach or ant traps
  • Close toilet lids, washer and dryer doors
  • Close kitchen and bathroom cabinets because household items like bleach, detergent, antifreeze can be very harmful

Kitty’s lair

Choose a secluded room, away from other furry family members, for Kitty to adjust to her new life. If sleeping is a problem, try the time-tested trick of wrapping a ticking clock in a blanket by her bed. Open her carrier and place it nearby along with her food, water bowls, litter box and toys.

Avoid toys with small, moveable parts that can detach easily and choke animals. Dangling string, yarn or ribbons may drive cats batty, but watch that they don’t tangle or choke Kitty. Small stuffed animals and trackballs make the best playthings because they’re safe and stimulate exercise.

You may have more fun watching Kitty play than she’ll even have playing, but you’ll also want to observe her behavior at rest. Sneak a peek at how she moves in and out of her carrier in her new room. If she dashes in fast, she may still need more time to acclimate. If she saunters, you’ll know she’s ready to explore the rest of the house.

Meet the kin

A kitten can take up to two weeks to fully relax, so limit human interactions those first few days, then introduce her to family members slowly, one at a time, so she learns everyone’s touch.

Teach young children how to hold kittens with one hand behind their front legs, the other under their hindquarters. They also need to know that tugging at Kitty’s scruff, ears or tail is a no-no. And, though tantrums may ensue, kids four and under shouldn’t be handling Kitty at all, especially unsupervised.

Other household pets will sniff out their new sibling immediately, so introduce Kitty on her turf; don’t let her have free run of the house because that’s their territory.

Resident cat(s) can check Kitty out briefly while you observe. Should a hissy fit erupt, separate the siblings immediately and try again in a few days. As for Fido, be sure he’s properly leashed when he meets her, plus keep Kitty from running off, otherwise he may think it’s time to give chase.

If all siblings play nice, reinforce their good behavior with well-deserved treats. Also, never leave playtime unsupervised until Kitty is full-grown.

Can we stalk?

Cats have a primal instinct to explore so, at first, let Kitty roam one room at a time. Place her open carrier in the room she’s investigating in case she gets nervous and needs a hasty retreat. Let Kitty explore while you quietly watch closely in case she hides under a bed or scoots under the sofa. If she starts kneading your expensive duvet, put her back on the floor gently to teach her that your bed is off limits.

Open 24 hours

Kittens need lots of nutrients and energy—about two to three times that of cats because they grow so fast. 30% of their total energy should come from protein so be sure to feed them food specifically formulated for them that first year, such as dry kitten food or nutrient-dense kitten-formula canned food. The rest of Kitty’s diet should come from high-quality dry and wet foods, packed with protein and essential amino acids to help give her wholesome nutritional support.

Unlike pups, kittens don’t wolf down all of their food in one sitting so you can conveniently set up an all-day/night buffet. Dry food is convenient because it won’t spoil if it sits for a while; be sure fresh water is always available, too. You’ll also want to keep siblings like Fido from stealing Kitty’s food by putting her bowl in an area others can’t reach.

Mind her business

Kittens instinctively dig to bury their waste, but they still may need some nudging when it comes to doing their business. After Kitty’s finished eating, or had her catnap, introduce her to her litter box. If she doesn’t take to it naturally, guide a front paw and simulate digging. You may need to repeat this process at regular intervals.

For the first few weeks, provide Kitty with the same food, feeding schedule and litter she had before the adoption. You can slowly transition to other litter products and food after she’s adjusted.

First check-up

It’s wise to pre-schedule a veterinarian visit prior to bringing Kitty home so she’s checked within a few days of her arrival. Your vet will look for ear mites, fleas, deworm her, plus give her all the necessary shots and vaccinations.

He/she will also determine the best time to spay or neuter, which can be as early as eight weeks old. Spaying helps protect Kitty from the risk of mammary, uterine and ovarian cancers, and neutering reduces the male’s risk of prostate cancer.  Added bonus: you’ll enjoy a “spray-free” home and less odorous litter box cleanup.

Here Kitty, Kitty

Canines aren’t the only ones who benefit from training. Just like puppy pre-school, kitty etiquette has caught on and you can actually train your cat to come when you call. Plus, if you have more than one kitten, you may need to nip roughhousing behavior in the bud. 

Above all, enjoy every precious moment with the latest member of your extended family!

Kitten Must-Haves

  • Food and water bowls
  • Course-textured 3 ft. high column/post for stretching/scratching
  • Fun, safe toys to promote exercise (e.g., wands, balls, “treat” dispensers)
  • Cat bed lined with a warm blanket or towel
  • A grooming brush/nail clipper
  • Cat carrier
  • ID tag or implanted microchip. Even if Kitty will be queen of the castle, you want to be ready if she sneaks out. A safety collar with an ID tag can bring her home safely.
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Brand Highlights Community Stories

Looking for a trainer? Start here

If you’re looking for a trainer for your furkid, there are a few things you need to consider –

  1. What category of training are you looking for

There is a variety of training available – puppy training, basic obedience training, behaviour modification etc. Before selecting a trainer, know what type of training you are looking for and proceed to look for trainers that offers/specialises in that type of training.

2. What method of training are you comfortable with?

In dog training, there are different types of training methods – Positive Reinforcement, E-collar, Balanced Training etc. Our advise would be to do your research & find trainers who use methods that you are comfortable with.

With these answers in mind, now you can start to look for a trainer for your furkid! In this article, Pawjourr has consolidated a list of recommended trainers that you can consider based on the different training categories & methods.

K9 Kampong

K9 Kampong

K9 Kampong trainer & founder, Su Lin, has a wealth of experience in dog training stemming from her many years of working & living with dogs. She is an AVS accredited dog trainer and is on the Project ADORE trainer’s panel for all 5 AVS endorsed Rehoming Partners.

K9 Kampong offers basic obedience & socialisation classes, puppy training workshops & behaviour modification training. They believe in using force-free, positive only methods in their training programs.

For dogs who require Project ADORE certification, K9 Kampong offers the obedience classes & certification.

Check them out here for more information

Wooga!

Wooga!

Wooga specialises in their 14 days Board & Train program that guarantees a number of obedience commands. They also offer services such as Daycare, Boarding, Handstripping and other unique training programs. 

The foundation of their training is based on creating a balanced relationship and unbreakable bond with the dog with clear communications and a solid foundation. Wooga uses markers and low level E-collar stimulation focusing on effective communication, motivation, enhancing and creating confident and balanced dogs.

They are the only training program in Singapore that guarantees results in a short 14 day period.

Check them out here for more information

Fuwang Dog Training

Fuwang Dog Training

At Fuwang Dog Training, they believe that all dogs can be trained with education & building a solid partnership between owners and their dogs.

Fuwang trained overseas extensively under the guidance of 2 Times World Champion Dog Trainer Ivan Balabanov. He believes that dog training is an art which one must constantly upgrade his knowledge.

Fuwang Dog Training offers services such as Puppy Assessment, Behaviour Modification, Basic Obedience & Extensive In-Depth Rehabilitation.

They are recognised for their behaviour modification & rehabilitation programs.

Check them out here for more information

Puppy Colours

Puppy Colours is a dog training school in Singapore that teaches dog owners to teach their dogs using methods based on behavioural science using positive signals and positive reinforcement. Their training focuses on real-life & social skills and problem prevention along with basic training skills.

Puppy Colours nurtures thinking dogs to make good decisions. They teach them what to do instead of telling them what not to do by finding things that motivates the dog and use that to encourage them to make good decisions.

Focusing on nurturing puppies into becoming a happy and well-mannered member of the family, Puppy Colours is known for their puppy training. They also group classes, private lessons & behaviour modification.

Check them out here for more information

Hop over to Pawjourr here to check out more trainers & their reviews.

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Community Stories

The first night with your new puppy

puppy

Article originally published on Yummypets. Written by Clarie Aert. Refer to the original article here.

The first night with your new puppy can be challenging, not least because you want to snuggle them and protect them from their fears. However, managing the first night is crucial and can define the base of their education and life with you.

The first night with your new puppy is both exciting and challenging. From feelings of enormous love and delight with the newest addition to your family, to managing their fears in their new environment, it’s important to remember some longer-term objectives about how you want them to assimilate. And what kind of relationship you want with them in the future!

The first night with your new puppy

Come night time, both you and your new puppy will probably want to snuggle together and sleep in the same bed. In fact, they’re likely to cry and moan if they’re not cuddled up with you. It’s probably the first night they’ve spent in a new environment, away from their mother and siblings. And it’s likely to make you feel immense guilt not responding to their cries.

However, it’s important to respect two fundamental rules in ensuring your puppy adapts well to its new life and home, by 1. Not giving in when it counts, and 2. Providing your puppy with a safe, quiet and cosy environment for them to spend the night.

Learning to say no

You are in charge of your new puppy and the relationship you build together. Therefore, it is your job to guide and educate them just as much as you provide them with love, food and shelter.

While giving treats and spoiling your puppy from time time is okay (after all, there’s nothing more wonderful than giving back to our fur friends), it’s also very common for owners to spoil their new puppy and give in to their every need.

A loving, safe and comfortable environment is most certainly the primary objective when adopting a new puppy. However, if you don’t set some boundaries when they are little, they won’t understand why they are unable to do certain things that they once could – even if only from time to time.

This can be very confusing for the animal as they grow up and can lead to various behavioural problems. So it’s important to be firm but kind from the start.

A cozy corner

The place you settle your puppy’s bed for the first night must be comfortable, secure and quiet. Make sure they are able to bury themselves under blankets and pillows to feel warm and protected.

If available to you, you can leave them with a blanket with the smell of their mother or the place they used to live. Even an item of your clothing with your smell on it will be familiar to them.

You may also like to provide them with a stuffed animal on which they can chew if they’re feeling stressed. A ticking clock placed nearby may even help to remind them of their mother’s and sibling’s heartbeat.

So, find the perfect place for your new puppy, shower them with unconditional love at all times, and be the parent they need and want you to be so you can build the most rewarding, wonderful relationship possible.

Now go snuggle that pup of yours!

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Community Stories

Did I make the right choice?

3 months ago, we made the decision to get Oolong thinking that we are prepared mentally and financially to be pet owners (whilst running a start-up). ☺

Rather than being informative, this is more of a #thoughtcatalogue kind of article.

?: “Can we get a dog, please?”
?: “No dogs! I’m busy enough taking care of you and cleaning the house. A dog is going to make it worst. You want your mother to die is it”

Does this sound familiar to you? #AsianMums

Just gotta add this in

I’ve always wanted a dog since young. I could never understand why my mum refused to let me own a dog even though she say that she is a “dog lover”. Now that I’m a dog owner, i kinda understand where she is coming from. Owning a pet is a huge commitment — and at that point she was right that we weren’t ready for that sorta commitment.

There are lots of sacrifices you have to made — mainly changing your lifestyle depending on the breed you got. This is why it is so important to get a dog that aligns with your lifestyle vs. getting something that is “popular” or “cute”.

Getting Oolong, the Siberian Husky

When we got Oolong, we thought we were ready (mentally & financially). We had all the boxes ticked — we are 28 years old and our house is arriving soon. We run a start-up so we can bring Oolong to the office every day; we are not exactly rich but yes, we can definitely afford a dog with our combined income.

Yes, granted that we were still staying at our parent’s house but we are moving out soon. We also had “the chat” to make sure they are okay with a new dog around the house (at least for the next 6 months max).

What could possibly go wrong?

We overestimated our financials. Theoretically, we are already spending $1,000 on taxi fare since we often work till 3-4am in the office (so cannot wake up in the morning, and no more train/buses after midnight).

We use telegram hitch a lot to get private hires, but we aren’t always that lucky. Grabpet would mean $50/day (to & fro) and that’s on top of his medical bills, food expenses and grooming.

Oolong was proving to be expensive. Eventually, we decided to keep him at home and only bring him to the office 2-3x a week — it would make a lot more sense financially and my husband’s parents were okay.

All good, till last month.

Oolong started getting jumpy and pushing boundaries with my PIL when we are not at home — jumping on guests, chewing on shoes/decor items, mouthing, etc. My PIL doesn’t know how to discipline a growing puppy — on top of that, having a dog around the house can also mean a “messier” house.

They had to make a few shifts around – meeting their friends outside of the home, cleaning up after him (he loves to stick his tongue out on the floor) and eventually, the pressure got to them. I understand — having a pet around (especially a puppy) wears you down. They were also scared of Oolong as he is growing exceptionally fast / big for a 5 months old puppy.

They started having 2nd thoughts and decided that they aren’t comfortable having him in the house whilst we were at the office.

Oolong is larger than a full-sized Singapore Special now.

Everything started to derail

Our initial plan was to do alternate weeks at my house and my husband’s house — but my mum backed out when she saw the “mess” and how dirty the house was after the first 2 weeks.

It’s not my house. It’s not their dog. I started getting really stressed because i needed to make sure Oolong wasn’t being naughty.

I cannot stress enough how important it is that when you welcome a dog into your family, your entire household needs to be EXCITED and AGREES to the plan.

Key takeaway

Lucky for us, we have our own office and we can bring him here everyday. That solves bulk of the problem — and we also got a long-term hitch driver to drive the cost down on transportation.

Oolong’s “work”

We were (kinda) lucky.

But what if you are working a 9-5 job and your office is not pet-friendly? What are you going to do?

Are you going to give up your dog?

Are you going to return home to angry parents?

Key takeaway

I’m slightly embarrassed that this seems to be a useless article HAHA but i think the point here is that with COVID, i’m seeing a huge trend of people owning a pet (adopt/buy). I’m happy to see more pet owners around because i believe that this helps to push the country in a progressive way (more pet owners, more demand, increase supply for pet-friendly related F&Bs, malls etc)

BUT

  1. If you are still living with your parents and works/study, MAKE SURE that you have 100% buy-in from the other household members. If they are hesitant, DON’T. It’s going to be painful.
  2. No, owning a pet is not just “it’s going to pass”. It’s a daily thing. It’s a 365 thing. It gets easier after puppyhood but they won’t magically be independent like your 12 years old sister. Throw them a phone and they will be fine. They going to get sick, bored, naughty and you are responsible for that. You CONTROL their life. It’s on you.
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Community Stories

As I go gray, I want my hooman to know…

I opened my doggo eyes to the warm sunlight and I think of my younger days where I would bounce up and run out to play. Somewhere in my 13 years of life, things changed.

It was not because I have become less playful, neither was it because the toys weren’t fun anymore. It’s simply because I couldn’t gather the energy to move like I used to. And that’s okay because it’s natural, right? Every doggo ages eventually.

As I go gray, I want my hooman to know that…

Age spots are a part of my aging journey.

You may have noticed that when you bathed me with your tender hands, my skin has more dark spots than when I was a pupper. I know you are concerned about why my looks started changing but I guess, it’s just a fact we both had to accept. Much like how grandma and granddad get their spots when they age.

My fur will turn lighter like how your hair will turn gray.

As you stroke my fur and look through my pupper photos, you gasped as you see how much my colour changed. It might seem like a little bit of colour gets washed off with every bath, which would be funny. However, it’s just that my body stops using energy to make colours for my coat so that I can have more energy to play with you.

English Cocker Spaniel Puppy Sitting On Ground Beside Grass

I wish I can walk a little further.

Nothing is better than some walkies with my favourite hooman, especially the reeeeaaalllly long ones. But my tiny little legs hurt inside with every step after some time, probably because of arthritis, weaker bones or simply fatigue. I can’t tell you when I am in pain, so all I can do is to stop a little while when it hurts. If you caught me limping, that’s because I was trying to keep up with you. Every day, I try to move a little further than yesterday.

My eyes that may have turned hazy, still see clearly.

When I see your worried look as you look me in the eyes, I knew my eyes did not seem as bright as they were. I know you are worried that I might be going blind. But, dear hooman, please don’t worry too much about it. My hazy eyes can still see you clearly and I am grateful for that. Nuclear sclerosis is the reason why my eyes are slightly blueish now. However, it is different from cataracts. I wish to see your happy face more while I still can, please do not worry as I can still see very well.

Pawn Pug Sitting on Beige Floor

Wrinkles are my evidence of memories with you.

With every walkies, zoomies and time spent panting living with you, my skin leaves precious folds to remember the good times we had. The first area you might notice where I have wrinkles would be my neck. The skin gets slightly loose and saggy. While it changes how I look externally, these marks on my body are beautiful souvenirs from the good times we have so I love every fold on my skin. I hope you love them too.

I am grateful to you, my dearest hooman.

In a blink of an eye, thirteen years have passed. While I don’t know how much time we have left to spend together, I just want to say thank you for giving me a good life. I know you sometimes blame yourself for not doing better but I wish you can find comfort to know that I enjoyed and appreciate everything you have done for me. I hoped I have been a good girl that doesn’t cause you any trouble and I will continue to strive to do so.

Lastly, I know you might already be thinking of my departure one day. Even though it is painful to separate, I wish you can be with me until my very last breath. And I hope that that is not too much to ask for in exchange for all the good memories we had created together.

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Community Stories

Why Does My Dog Get The Zoomies?

puppy running

Article originally published on Dodowell. Written by Danielle Esposito. Refer to the original article here.

The first time you see a case of the zoomies, you might watch in shock as your dog bolts back and forth at lightning speed before collapsing on the floor.

While your panting dog might look like he just ran around like crazy for no reason, you can breathe easy knowing that these outbursts are completely normal.

“There is no reason to be alarmed by the zoomies,” Shelby Semel, head trainer at Animal Haven rescue in New York City, told The Dodo. “They are just bursts of energy being released, often stored up over a period of time.”

What are the zoomies? 

Formally known as frenetic random activity periods (FRAPs), zoomies are high-energy bursts of activity that tend to hit puppies or young dogs more often than older dogs, although older dogs can still get a jolt of that zippy energy from time to time.

You can tell your dog is having a case of the zoomies when they jet back and forth across your yard or living room. Some zoomies will manifest in a dog spinning frantically to try to catch their tail until they either succeed or fall. 

Why do dogs get the zoomies? 

Dogs get the zoomies for all kinds of reasons — like when they’re super excited that you just got home from work, or even from seeing another dog get their own zoomies. 

Zoomies can also come when your dog has some built-up nervous energy that needs to be released, like after a long training session or a bath. 

Keeping your zooming dog safe

Zoomies are usually harmless — but dog parents are sometimes worried about how clumsy their dogs get while zooming around. In order to keep your dog, other humans and your belongings safe, make sure you get out of the way when they’re happening — and if you can, make sure they happen in a relatively open environment. 

“When you have a large pittie or any large breed, you have to worry about them accidentally knocking into things,” Semel said. “So I suggest clearing off your coffee table before and staying out of their way for the couple of minutes it lasts!” 

You’ll be able to tell they’re about to start if you keep an eye out for your dog’s rising energy levels — and after a few spurts of the zoomies, you’ll probably be able to know when they’re going to strike. 

For example, if you know your dog zooms after a bath (sooooo many do!), it would be a good idea to take your dog to a safe zoom zone immediately after, like the backyard or away from young kids.

Other dogs like to kick things off with a play-bow, which can be your hint to clear out. 

According to Semel, some dogs zoom if they’re under-exercised or toward evening hours. “Many do it after something stressful, new or exciting, like after getting a bath or when they’re excited to go on a walk.” 

It’s important to remember that you shouldn’t discourage or stop your dog from zooming, but instead control the environment that he zooms in to make sure that everyone’s safe.

And don’t forget to pull out your phone camera — zoomies are the best to watch and will leave you with some great videos to look back on.

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Community Stories

All About Spitzes – Diet

Continuing on our series of Stories From The Community: All About Spitzes, this second article will be discussing the topic of diets – what are common foods they avoid as well as recommendations by our very own Spitz owners.

This article will feature the experiences & insights from the hoomans of Orithespitz, legendthespitz and hweeventures!

Q: What diet are your Spitzes on?

H: Hwee is currently on a 50% HCF & 50% Kibbles diet. She used to be really picky with her Kibbles so we introduced HCF to encourage her to eat more.

O: Ori is on an 80% HCF & 20% Kibbles. 

L: Legend is also currently on an 80% HCF & 20% Kibbles.

Q: Is there anything you avoid feeding them? Alternatively, what do you encourage them to eat?

H: We are very cautious and picky with what we feed Hwee. She is allergic to chicken so we naturally avoid that though it was pretty hard to find kibbles with no chicken by-products. Moreover, due to her previous pancreatitis flare up, we now have to keep her on a low fat diet. 

Hwee’s meals always consist of a good balance of lean meat/fish & veggies! We were advised to keep her meals within 20% of fat content, so we will always calculate the fat percentage for each of her meals. To keep the range within 20%, we will request for lean cuts from the butcher when preparing her meals. 

O: Ori is not picky or allergic to anything so I generally let him eat anything. But I avoid lamb because I don’t like the gamey smell. I’m also watchful of the amount of treats he eats, I definitely try to ensure he doesn’t eat too much.

L: We will avoid beef because Legend started to develop brown patches after we fed him canned beef in the past. We suspect it’s due to an allergic reaction. 

We would add salmon to his meals as it is a good source of protein and it helps to keep his skin healthy & shiny. We also feed him pumpkin as pumpkin helps to boost his immune system. On top of that, we try our best to incorporate fruits and veg into this diet. 

Q: Is there anything in particular that Spitzes should eat?

H: For Spitzes, coat care is very important so adding fur & coat supplements like fish oiI and coconut oil helps a lot with that!

And since they’re double coated, the Singapore weather may be too humid for them. Often, it leads to itching, scratching & hot spots! So I firmly believe in skin and coat supplements to help maintain a healthy coat condition. 

O: I would also recommend supplements for coat care. I usually add coconut oil, fish oil and other similar supplements to Ori’s diet whenever necessary. 

L: Spitz are prone to luxating patellas so it’s important to take preventive measures. We feed Legend Arthrix Plus as a joint supplement, Augustine Superboost, fish collagen and salmon oil supplements. Salmon oil helps with shedding and also promotes a shiny and healthy coat. This is especially good for them since they are a double coated breed.

– – –

THE WOOF AGENCY would like to thank Orithespitz, legendthespitz and hweeventures for sharing about their experiences!

Stay tuned to next Stories from the Community, where we talk to owners of long-back dogs to learn more about how to care for them! 

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Community Stories

How I suddenly came to care for a senior hamster

When I first started my internship, I was told that we have an office hamster that is around 2-3 years old which is estimated to be around 80-120 years old in hamster age. Initially, I did not interact much with the him but as time went by, I slowly grew attached to him.

When he was still in office :3

I started doing research online regarding how to better care for a hamster. I started out by made some toys out of cardboard that he could play with. Then I started to, buy some snacks for him and would play with him once in a while. After a few months, I decided to get him a new cage that is bigger that his original cage so he can have a bigger space for himself as my research online said that small cages could make a hamster feel stressed due to the lack of space.

When Christmas and New Year’s came around, the last two weekends of 2020 were a long weekend and there would be no one to look after him if he was left in the office so I brought him home and he has been in my house ever since. My family also grew attached to him and plays with him when they have the time to.

Eating broccoli at my house

One day as I was feeding a treat to him, I noticed that his left ear seemed swollen and since I have no experience about how to handle this kind of situation, I googled and found out that it could either be a growth or an ear infection. I then contacted my close friend that owns 2 hamsters to seek for help. My friend helped me get an appointment booked with the vet that she usually brings her hamster to and she also went to the vet with me as it is my first time going to the vet.

His infected ear

After the vet checked on him, it seems that not only was his left ear infected and swollen, his right ear was also infected and he also has some on his skin as well. Initially, the vet wanted to clean his ear and teach me after so I could do it myself as well at home. However, when the vets were trying to clean his ear it seems that he was not used to being handled and he was very stressed by the situation that he gasped and almost collapsed. The vets decided to not clean his ear anymore, gave him some oxygen and get him to calm down.

The final decision was to feed him antibiotics and antihistamine to help with his infection and itching. At first, I was a little worried about needing to feed his medications myself as my friend told me that she had a hard time feeding her hamster medications back then when she had to. But when I tried to feed him his medication myself, he ate his medication well and did not reject eating it which was a huge relief for me. He is now still in the middle of his medication period and I hope that he stays strong and recovers well : )