Tag: kittenhood

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What Does Your New Kitten Need?

kitten
Cute litte black kitten with halloween items.

Article originally published on Purina. Refer to the original article here.

When bringing a kitten into your home, it’s best to make sure you’re prepared. That will help create a smooth transition that is less stressful for your new cat. Here is a rundown of supplies you’ll need to prepare in advance. We think you’ll find that when you’re prepared, you’ll have more time left to bond.

When hitting the road, you’ll need to transport your kitten in a carrier. This will keep her safe and provide a sense of security. Travelling can be scary for a kitten, so make sure the carrier is roomy and well-ventilated. Try lining the bottom with a towel from her former home or shelter to comfort her with a familiar scent. And make sure your carrier is secure and easy to clean.

Food and Water Bowls

Your kitten has lots of energy, so select bowls that won’t tip over too easily. Some kittens are allergic to plastic, so opt for a different material like easy-to-clean stainless steel. You’ll want to wash her food and water bowls daily to keep things fresh. Plenty of clean, fresh water on hand is key for a kitten too.

Litter Box

Make sure the box is roomy to prevent scattering litter around the house. You’ll also need to buy cat litter and a scoop or strainer to remove soiled bits. A clean litter box is key because your kitten will avoid using a messy, smelly one. Wash her pan once a week with soap and water. It is best not to use strong disinfectants (containing ammonia); they aren’t necessary and may offend your kitten’s sensitive nose. Use a mild disinfectant such as bleach and water on the litter box about once a month, putting the box outdoors to dry in the fresh air, if possible. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling.

IMPORTANT: Humans may contract an organism called toxoplasma from cat feces while cleaning out the litter box. Wear gloves while changing your kitten’s litter and always wash your hands afterwards. Pregnant women should be especially cautious and consider asking another family member to clean the litter box. This is because toxoplasmosis can cause severe birth defects. We recommend that a non-pregnant family member clean and change the litter box.

Bed

Most kittens like to have their own place to rest, but don’t be disappointed if she chooses to ignore her new bed. Until you see what your kitten’s preferences are, you may not want to spend a lot of money on a fancy wicker basket or plush bed. Begin with a simple, cardboard “bed.” Get a roomy cardboard box with sides high enough to keep out drafts. Cut out a doorway. Line the box with an old cushion and cover with soft, washable material for warmth. If possible, use an old sweatshirt for a lining. Your scent will be comforting and encourage her to use her new space. Cats are very particular, so make sure the bedding is always clean. Place the bed in a quiet, draft-free corner away from the main traffic in your house. This will be your kitten’s corner.

Scratching Post

Contrary to popular belief, cats do not use a scratching post to sharpen their claws. They use it for exercise (to stretch out to their full length), to clean away dead scales from their nails, and to mark their territory, both visually and with their scent. Get a scratching post right away to help train your kitten early. The scratching post should be sturdy and tall enough to let your kitten stretch out, full length. Train your kitten to use the scratching post as soon as she comes home. Encourage her to use her post by playing with her often, near or around it. She’ll get the idea quickly. Then when she gets the urge to stretch, hopefully she’ll use the post instead of your furniture. Try to place your kitten’s bed and scratching post close together so she learns to use it when she first wakes up and needs a stretch.

Collar, Harness, & Leash

A cat harness or leash can be a great training tool for your kitten, though they’re not a must. If you’re already thinking along these lines, a harness is probably best, as kittens often dislike the feeling of a leash. However, make sure your kitten always wears a collar made of lightweight material and an identification tag. Have her wear one early on, to get her used to the sensation.

Grooming Tools

Grooming helps keep your kitten healthy and beautiful. You’ll need both a flea comb and a brush, though the type of brush you use depends on the texture and length of your kitten’s coat. Ask your veterinarian or groomer to recommend one that’s right for you.

Toys

A kitten is naturally curious and needs toys that are safe and fun to play with. Choose toys made especially for cats—ones that cannot be splintered, torn apart or swallowed.  A celluloid ball that rattles, a catnip mouse or a hard rubber mouse is perfect. To avoid accidents, some cat toys should be used only when you are playing with your kitten.

Toys don’t need to be store bought. Use your imagination. Some great play-things include:

  • Table tennis ball
  • Empty wooden thread spool
  • Unshelled walnut
  • Balled-up waxed paper
  • Cardboard toilet paper tube
  • Empty shoe box

Some items you may be tempted to give your kitten could be harmful. Keep the following away from your kitten:

  • Balls of string
  • Spools of thread
  • Rubber bands
  • Balls of aluminum foil or cellophane
  • Corks
  • Wire twist ties

Also avoid anything with hard sharp points that can break off. Be wary of toys (or items that a kitten may see as a toy) that can break, such as Christmas tree ornaments for example. Be careful not to give her anything small enough to swallow, like buttons, beads or paper clips. Keep your kitten away from children’s toys made of soft rubber, fur, wool, sponge or polyurethane. If your kitten swallows even a small particle, it could cause digestive problems. Avoid all toys with squeakers that could be swallowed.

We hope this list helped prepare you to make your home a happy place for your cat.

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Kitten Care: Must-Know Tips for Raising Kittens

Article originally published on Petfinder. Written by Jennifer Sellers. Refer to the original article here.

When it comes to raising kittens, the philosophy is pretty similar to that of bringing up children. If you provide proper care and training when they’re young, it increases the odds they’ll grow up to be healthy, well-adjusted adults. So if you recently adopted a kitten, start incorporating this advice as soon as possible.

1) Don’t Treat Your Kitten Like an Adult Cat

Just as a human infant has vastly different needs than a teenager, a kitten will have care requirements distinct from those of a fully matured cat. In addition, you should consider a kitten’s various stages of development when caring for her:

  • Under eight weeks of age. At this early age, a kitten should still be with her mother and litter mates. Because kittens this young are unable to regulate their own temperatures, they rely on one-another’s body heat to survive. In addition, they are still developing vision and leg coordination. If you adopt or foster an orphan kitten in this age group, special care will need to be taken, including bottle-feeding the kitten for every two hours up to four weeks of age and possibly helping your kitten pee and poop. It’s best to consult with a veterinarian for specific instructions and advice.
  • Eight to eleven weeks of age. Kittens are usually weaned by eight weeks and should be eating kitten diet, which needs to be energy dense, rich in protein and highly digestible. Whether choosing dry kibble or wet food, be sure it is formulated for kittens. Other big changes will start occurring during this period as well. As your kitten begins developing complex motor skills she will become a force of nature — running, jumping, playing and exploring. This is a delightful period of kittenhood, but also one that can be dangerous to your kitten if she isn’t appropriately supervised.  Start setting boundaries for your kitten and keep her in a safe, enclosed room while you can supervise her.
  • Two to four months of age. This is a phase of rapid growth for kittens in which they’ll have almost three times more energy than an adult cat. They’ll need three to four individual meals a day during this time. According to Vetstreet.com, these meals should be minimum 30 percent high-quality protein.
  • Four to six months of age. Kittens in this age group are reaching adolescence and, thus, sexual maturity. Talk to a veterinarian about having your kitten spayed or neutered before your kitten reaches this stage to avoid unpleasant habits like territorial spraying and accidental litters.

2) Reward Good Behavior and Socialize, Socialize, Socialize

The socialization and training your cat receives during kittenhood will affect how well she will likely interact with people and other animals when she’s older. “I remember the first time I fostered kittens and how worried I was about scaring them,” says Jane Harrell. “What I didn’t know was that that was a critical socialization period for them and not exposing them to things made them more nervous as adults. Now when I foster kittens I do everything I can to get them exposed to as much as possible – loud noises, walking on leashes, strangers, you name it! It all helps them become better-adjusted, healthy adult cats.” Just makre sure your kittens have a positive experience out of any socialization exposure you provide them.

As a new kitten’s parent, it will be up to you to guide her and show her that the world is a wonderful place. Consider trying some of these training and socialization methods:

  • Kittens will generally use litter boxes by instinct, however you can help teach her to use it by placing her in the box after meals and play sessions. Make sure the litter box is always available to your kitten and cleaned frequently
  • Pet her frequently
  • Get her used to weekly combing and grooming.
  • Introduce her to toys
  • Allow her to experience different walking surfaces (carpet, linoleum, etc.)
  • Take her outside on a lead or in her carrier (It can be very dangerous to allow a kitten outside without one.) However, before providing any outdoor exposure be sure your veterinarian has administered the proper vaccines and enough time has passed for your kitten to build immunity.
  • Give her objects to explore, such as boxes and paper bags
  • Play loud music and make noise
  • Have friends over and ask them to play with her and give her treats
  • Provide appropriate scratching alternatives (such as scratching posts) and reward her with toys, praise or treats when she uses them
  • Do not allow her to bite or scratch during play. If she does, redirect her attention to a toy.
  • Expose her to other cats and kittens (as soon as they’re up to date on vaccinations, of course!). There are even kitten socialization classes; do an internet search to see if any are available in your area.
  • Take your kitten on car rides, giving her treats the whole time, and get her used to her carrier.
  • Reward friendly behavior with treats or praise.
  • Do not reprimand bad behavior, instead, ignore her when she displays inappropriate behavior.
  • Challenge your kitten to think by teaching her tricks.
  • Always be patient

3) Make Preventive Care a Priority

To help ensure your kitty has a lifetime of good health, start early in providing her with preventive care:

  • Schedule an appointment early. No matter what, schedule your kitten’s first vet appointment within a week of getting her. Early and frequent vet visits will help socialize your kitten with the vet and help the vet establish a baseline for your kitten’s health.
  • Ask about intestinal parasites, fleas and heartworm. Have a veterinarian check your kitten for worms and intestinal parasites, and have her de-wormed, if necessary. And while heartworms aren’t as much of a problem for cats as they are for dogs, some kittens may be susceptible, so also ask your vet if he or she recommends a heartworm preventative. The biggest parasitic threat to your kitten, however, is fleas. You can start administering topical flea preventatives when your kitten is around 8 to 12 weeks of age — although some brands are formulated for kittens as young as 4 weeks old.
  • Ask which vaccinations your kitten needs and how often: Preventive care for kittens may include vaccines for feline leukemia, rabies and distemper. These shots are usually first administered when a kitten is around 8 weeks of age, with boosters given every few weeks until she reaches 16 weeks of age. After that, your veterinarian can set her up on an adult vaccination schedule. He or she may also recommend additional vaccinations.

These building blocks will give your kitten the best possible start in life, but don’t forget that she’ll still need plenty of attention and care when she gets older.

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How to Take Care of Kittens

Article originally published on Blue Buffalo. Refer to the original article here.

Adopting a kitten or just thinking it over?  There’s probably nothing better than taking home a wide-eyed, velvet-nosed ball of fluff (hey, who’s rescuing who?) but even if you’ve had a kitten before, it’s wise to review the basics.

Best age to adopt

Separating kittens from their biological moms and siblings is best when they’re 10 to 12 weeks old. If the litter hasn’t had much human contact, however, it’s better to bring them home at six to seven weeks old.

As for personality, this may be one time when curiosity doesn’t kill the cat: look for an inquisitive kitten who’s playful, not shy. Above all, pick a cat-itude that complements all family members.

Pre-kitten prep

Before you introduce Kitty to her new surroundings, safely stow items she might chew, swallow or choke on. Keep tissues, paper towels, toilet paper, pens, pencils, rubber bands, jewelry, balloons, and small items out of paw’s reach. If you have other pets, be sure they’ve seen the veterinarian recently so they won’t be sharing an infection with their new sibling.

More cat-proofing tips:

  • Anchor window cords, cap outlets and bundle electronic cords
  • Call the Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435) for a list of deadly plants to avoid
  • Lock acetaminophen (Tylenol) away; it’s deadly to felines
  • Hide roach or ant traps
  • Close toilet lids, washer and dryer doors
  • Close kitchen and bathroom cabinets because household items like bleach, detergent, antifreeze can be very harmful

Kitty’s lair

Choose a secluded room, away from other furry family members, for Kitty to adjust to her new life. If sleeping is a problem, try the time-tested trick of wrapping a ticking clock in a blanket by her bed. Open her carrier and place it nearby along with her food, water bowls, litter box and toys.

Avoid toys with small, moveable parts that can detach easily and choke animals. Dangling string, yarn or ribbons may drive cats batty, but watch that they don’t tangle or choke Kitty. Small stuffed animals and trackballs make the best playthings because they’re safe and stimulate exercise.

You may have more fun watching Kitty play than she’ll even have playing, but you’ll also want to observe her behavior at rest. Sneak a peek at how she moves in and out of her carrier in her new room. If she dashes in fast, she may still need more time to acclimate. If she saunters, you’ll know she’s ready to explore the rest of the house.

Meet the kin

A kitten can take up to two weeks to fully relax, so limit human interactions those first few days, then introduce her to family members slowly, one at a time, so she learns everyone’s touch.

Teach young children how to hold kittens with one hand behind their front legs, the other under their hindquarters. They also need to know that tugging at Kitty’s scruff, ears or tail is a no-no. And, though tantrums may ensue, kids four and under shouldn’t be handling Kitty at all, especially unsupervised.

Other household pets will sniff out their new sibling immediately, so introduce Kitty on her turf; don’t let her have free run of the house because that’s their territory.

Resident cat(s) can check Kitty out briefly while you observe. Should a hissy fit erupt, separate the siblings immediately and try again in a few days. As for Fido, be sure he’s properly leashed when he meets her, plus keep Kitty from running off, otherwise he may think it’s time to give chase.

If all siblings play nice, reinforce their good behavior with well-deserved treats. Also, never leave playtime unsupervised until Kitty is full-grown.

Can we stalk?

Cats have a primal instinct to explore so, at first, let Kitty roam one room at a time. Place her open carrier in the room she’s investigating in case she gets nervous and needs a hasty retreat. Let Kitty explore while you quietly watch closely in case she hides under a bed or scoots under the sofa. If she starts kneading your expensive duvet, put her back on the floor gently to teach her that your bed is off limits.

Open 24 hours

Kittens need lots of nutrients and energy—about two to three times that of cats because they grow so fast. 30% of their total energy should come from protein so be sure to feed them food specifically formulated for them that first year, such as dry kitten food or nutrient-dense kitten-formula canned food. The rest of Kitty’s diet should come from high-quality dry and wet foods, packed with protein and essential amino acids to help give her wholesome nutritional support.

Unlike pups, kittens don’t wolf down all of their food in one sitting so you can conveniently set up an all-day/night buffet. Dry food is convenient because it won’t spoil if it sits for a while; be sure fresh water is always available, too. You’ll also want to keep siblings like Fido from stealing Kitty’s food by putting her bowl in an area others can’t reach.

Mind her business

Kittens instinctively dig to bury their waste, but they still may need some nudging when it comes to doing their business. After Kitty’s finished eating, or had her catnap, introduce her to her litter box. If she doesn’t take to it naturally, guide a front paw and simulate digging. You may need to repeat this process at regular intervals.

For the first few weeks, provide Kitty with the same food, feeding schedule and litter she had before the adoption. You can slowly transition to other litter products and food after she’s adjusted.

First check-up

It’s wise to pre-schedule a veterinarian visit prior to bringing Kitty home so she’s checked within a few days of her arrival. Your vet will look for ear mites, fleas, deworm her, plus give her all the necessary shots and vaccinations.

He/she will also determine the best time to spay or neuter, which can be as early as eight weeks old. Spaying helps protect Kitty from the risk of mammary, uterine and ovarian cancers, and neutering reduces the male’s risk of prostate cancer.  Added bonus: you’ll enjoy a “spray-free” home and less odorous litter box cleanup.

Here Kitty, Kitty

Canines aren’t the only ones who benefit from training. Just like puppy pre-school, kitty etiquette has caught on and you can actually train your cat to come when you call. Plus, if you have more than one kitten, you may need to nip roughhousing behavior in the bud. 

Above all, enjoy every precious moment with the latest member of your extended family!

Kitten Must-Haves

  • Food and water bowls
  • Course-textured 3 ft. high column/post for stretching/scratching
  • Fun, safe toys to promote exercise (e.g., wands, balls, “treat” dispensers)
  • Cat bed lined with a warm blanket or towel
  • A grooming brush/nail clipper
  • Cat carrier
  • ID tag or implanted microchip. Even if Kitty will be queen of the castle, you want to be ready if she sneaks out. A safety collar with an ID tag can bring her home safely.