Tag: New Owners

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Don’t touch my dog, unless you asked.

Now, today, I want to talk about enthusiastic dog lovers/owners; not the ones that’s afraid.

So with the utmost respect, I say this on behalf of most dog owners, particularly owners that’s struggling or value dog training: don’t touch our dog without our permission.

1. Don’t bend down to stroke my dog.
2. Don’t call it over when it’s walking towards you and you’re walking in the opposite direction, standing outside a shop, or sitting at a table outside a cafe. Or doing sit stay exercise. OR ITS WEARING A “TRAINING” TAG.
3. Don’t stroke my dog when it’s sitting me waiting to cross the traffic light.
4. Don’t lean over and randomly stroke my dog when I’m walking by.
5. And don’t you even think about picking my dog up without asking.

What a miserable, stuck-up dude, you’re probably thinking I am. Talk about being possessive over his dog. Don’t touch then don’t touch lor.

No, I get it, all dogs are cute, they’re painfully cute and nobody likes being told they can’t stroke one (particularly children). Dogs/Puppies bring total joy to people’s lives; my Kobe, in particular, puts a smile on people’s face when they see him wagging his tail, and wanna lean against you for affection when you stood down to welcome him.
Puppies and dogs are so powerful that they have the power to make you coo unabashedly out loud in the middle of the street when surrounded by total strangers. Puppies are great which is why (nearly) everyone wants to stroke them.

To you, dear dog obsessive, stroking a puppy seems normal yeah. why not? It’s also a complement saying your pooch is adorable what.
But I’m here to break the bad news to you. When you stroke a dog without asking the owner’s permission or call it over to you, not only are you being disrespectful and incredibly rude, you’re potentially endangering yourself and the dog, and the owner.

Over the months of being a new Singapore Special / Mongrel dog owner, I’ve noticed there are 2 categories of enthusiastic dog lovers/ people: 

1. People are dog owners and respect the importance of training.
2. People who just love dogs but have clearly never owned one (or did so without proper training). 

The people who fall into the first category are the only ones who ask permission before meeting my dog and stroking it or even feeding treats.

The second category of people force themselves onto my dog and ignore my existence, and now I’m the invisible dog owner/walker. I tend to abruptly and unashamedly avoid the second category of people and return the favour by ignoring their existence. 

If I hear someone coo my dog over to them as he’s walking on a leash, I will just carry on walking without stopping. Guess who’s labelled the rude one? Me.

Someone once said when I was training proper leash work on Kobe: “But I could see him (Kobe) looking at me, he was pulling at his leash to come over to me; he want to say hello to me. Yes, he does, but you know what else my Kobe was interested at and pulls at his leash to get to? Trash, birds, leaf… Oh, and every single person walking on the street.

I’m classified as stuck up because of my face, and rude because I don’t allow people who don’t ask permission to have access to my dog. 

Part of that training includes not teaching my dogs to run up to EVERY strangers. Why? Because I am a responsible owners, I think for people that’s afraid of dogs, or due to religion. 

Puppies love people, they want to meet everyone and everything because they love cuddles and play. If I allow my dog to run up to anyone once, I have to then justify allowing it to run up to everyone else. 

The first time I ever took Kobe out after the circuit breaker, as a naïve new puppy owner, I was stopped 123456 times during a walk, but that’s ok, because people are concern about what happens to his missing limb, and also because we wanted Kobe to be friendly and not afraid of people, but then again, with that we also allow him to charge towards people/kids that’s afraid of dogs, then we become as “Owners that cannot control their dog”.

I’d never had a puppy on a lead before, but I boiled up with rage. I was utterly furious with the overt disrespect and invasiveness. It’s actually a miracle I didn’t punch this person; if it happened again I probably would. The first few weeks of a dog’s life are essential for puppy training and I was very positive and excited to embark this new experience with Kobe, but this random person had ruined my dog’s first associations with going out on a lead. I told that person that Kobe is on training on how to heel properly. “Nevermind la” “Let puppies be puppies la, why so strict” “Still so young don’t need training la” “You see you see, he want to come to say hello to me already!!” 

Nobody would do this to a newborn baby. Nobody would run-up to a pram without acknowledging the mother, touch the baby or cuddle right: they’d be arrested for it. But dogs are public property, apparently, so it’s ok?

I’m not being a rude, tight-arsed or stuck up douche when I walk pass you with my dog ignoring your cooing, your tutting and attempts of getting his attention; I just want to be a responsible dog owner who trains my dog. Have you ever wonder if the dog you’re cooing might be actually aggressive? What if my dog bites you because your cooing is actually provoking him and making him anxious? 

My dog’s life is my responsibility; he can’t give consent and he doesn’t know the world as well as I do, so it’s my job to keep him safe and protected. I don’t want him running up to random strangers, what if that person is scare and hit my dog as “self defence”, or my dog gets aggressive trying to defend himself and bite that person by accident? 

The other day, I was at X dog cafe with a group of friends, Yes all the dogs are off leashed, running around and “enjoying” themselves. 

Because its a weekend, that dog cafe was rowdy and filled with loud noise and commotion from big dogs and small dogs. I leash Kobe and walked to our table, and unleash him after he obey my commands. Well for people that met Kobe before, you know he is a sociable dog when it comes to strangers and other dogs. So he was mingling and running around wanting to make new friends with dogs and humans, but then again; due to his insecure nature, certain dogs makes him feel intimidated and he will become a little more anxious and wary. 

So when I notice he was a bit “off”, I recall him back and put on the leash, because I am a responsible owner right? I don’t want my dog to be barking the cafe down, or terrorising other dogs while I’m sitting there enjoying my meal. 

So as Kobe was sitting beside me with his leash on, someone approached him, X asked me if my dog is KOBE.SG, and I said “Yes! Hello nice to meet you too!” X asked me if X can pat Kobe, I was like sure, why not? Don’t want to be rude right, X asked permission, thats a rare one!

But X display signs of uncertainty, X hover the hand in front of Kobe’s face and not sure if X wants to pat him; I immediately told X that If you want to pat him, pat with confidence, because if you display uncertainty, he will be wary of you and gets anxious and defensive. 
But X did not adhere to my advise and continue hovering X’s hand in front of Kobe face, and I saw Kobe starting to snarl… Despite my nerves and a lifetime of people-pleasing tendencies, I finally broke my suppression, “Don’t touch my dog already” calmly but sternly. And explain that he is gonna bite. 

But…….. X did the predictable; which is ignoring my warning…. X is not the first one that takes my warning lightly.. Whats with people not adhering to warning? Do you think that I am joking when I say my dog is gonna bite you?

So after I told X off, X finally decided to move X’s hand forward and pat him, and this time I saw Kobe’s snarl and heard his low growl, shifty eyes and round forehead ready to lunge forward to the incoming hand, and I IMMEDIATELY YANK X’S HAND OFF, AND SAID “I TOLD YOU NOT TO TOUCH HIM ALREADY, HE’S GONNA BITE YOU”

If I can be honest, I was pissed. Was I wrong to feel this way?

And there was a awkward silence after that incident and X decided to excuse themsleves, and despite whatever happen few seconds ago, X decided to crouched down and wave X’s hand in front of Kobe’s face to say byebye… A FEW TIMES… And this time I have to tighten Kobe’s collar and pull him towards me… 

Why? I don’t get it. 

And this is not the only thing. 

Parents.
IF you want to bring your kids out to meet some cute little cuddly dogs, please go to a dog cafe that you get to pat their in house dogs. Its for the safety of your child and other peoples’ dog.

Don’t bring your kids to a dog cafe or a dog run to pat random strangers dogs who you have no idea what their temperament and trigger points are.

I cannot emphasise this enough.
When I was at X dog cafe, I told this kid off 3 times, not to touch Kobe, and she just doesn’t listen, I even told her that he will bite. And my last straw, I raise my voice a little and gave a final warning, and suddenly her parents which is just the next table, decided to speak up after me and told his kid “People already told you don touch already, why you still do that?”

C’mon Sir, shouldn’t you be already educating your kid before she reaches her hand over once again?

When I was at X dog run, there’s this girl that’s just running free around the dog park, chasing every dog and touching all the dogs thats passing her, what if she met an aggressive one? I don’t see her parents around. 

She was chasing Kobe and screaming at the same time, making Kobe super scare, and finally Kobe ran towards me, she wants to reach her hand over to pat him, I said no, but she wants to do it, What am I suppose to do? Obviously I told her off, but honestly what else can I do beside telling her again and again not to touch my dog and explain why..

I had to finally asserted myself and it hadn’t been as painful as I thought it would. I hate not giving people what they want, especially when I’m more than capable of giving it to them (after all, I could have just let them pat Kobe right), but it wasn’t about doing something just because I could do it. It was about finally demanding your respect and attention to adhere to my request of not touching my dog due to safety reasons.

It was about finally taking ownership of my right to say no; it was about me acknowledging to myself that just because I can do something doesn’t mean I should, especially if I don’t want to, because I’m afraid of the consequences.

Dogs are cute, but they also need a lot of training and all good dog-owners take training seriously. Whatever training works for your dog, as long as it’s trained. If you really do love dogs, please start showing respect for other dog owners and acknowledge they are part of the equation, you don’t have to agree to what they think is best for their dog, but at least have the same level of respect because we all just want the best for our dog.
Just as you wouldn’t walk up to a baby or toddler without acknowledging the parent, don’t walk up to a puppy without asking the dog owner first. 

After all, not only is it inconvenient and detrimental for a dog owner who is possibly training a dog, it’s also wiser for you: you don’t know the nature of a dog. That cute little dog could be utterly terrified of people, they may cower, bark or even bite you. They may be aggressive or anxious, they may even be blind or deaf, so don’t force yourself onto a dog which can’t give consent, no matter how cute they are.

But if you ask me then yes, I will release my dog from training and you can touch my dog. But if you’re wary and scare, then please don’t request to touch my dog. Thank you.

Xoxo,
Kobe’s stuck-up douche dad. 

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Kitten Care: Must-Know Tips for Raising Kittens

Article originally published on Petfinder. Written by Jennifer Sellers. Refer to the original article here.

When it comes to raising kittens, the philosophy is pretty similar to that of bringing up children. If you provide proper care and training when they’re young, it increases the odds they’ll grow up to be healthy, well-adjusted adults. So if you recently adopted a kitten, start incorporating this advice as soon as possible.

1) Don’t Treat Your Kitten Like an Adult Cat

Just as a human infant has vastly different needs than a teenager, a kitten will have care requirements distinct from those of a fully matured cat. In addition, you should consider a kitten’s various stages of development when caring for her:

  • Under eight weeks of age. At this early age, a kitten should still be with her mother and litter mates. Because kittens this young are unable to regulate their own temperatures, they rely on one-another’s body heat to survive. In addition, they are still developing vision and leg coordination. If you adopt or foster an orphan kitten in this age group, special care will need to be taken, including bottle-feeding the kitten for every two hours up to four weeks of age and possibly helping your kitten pee and poop. It’s best to consult with a veterinarian for specific instructions and advice.
  • Eight to eleven weeks of age. Kittens are usually weaned by eight weeks and should be eating kitten diet, which needs to be energy dense, rich in protein and highly digestible. Whether choosing dry kibble or wet food, be sure it is formulated for kittens. Other big changes will start occurring during this period as well. As your kitten begins developing complex motor skills she will become a force of nature — running, jumping, playing and exploring. This is a delightful period of kittenhood, but also one that can be dangerous to your kitten if she isn’t appropriately supervised.  Start setting boundaries for your kitten and keep her in a safe, enclosed room while you can supervise her.
  • Two to four months of age. This is a phase of rapid growth for kittens in which they’ll have almost three times more energy than an adult cat. They’ll need three to four individual meals a day during this time. According to Vetstreet.com, these meals should be minimum 30 percent high-quality protein.
  • Four to six months of age. Kittens in this age group are reaching adolescence and, thus, sexual maturity. Talk to a veterinarian about having your kitten spayed or neutered before your kitten reaches this stage to avoid unpleasant habits like territorial spraying and accidental litters.

2) Reward Good Behavior and Socialize, Socialize, Socialize

The socialization and training your cat receives during kittenhood will affect how well she will likely interact with people and other animals when she’s older. “I remember the first time I fostered kittens and how worried I was about scaring them,” says Jane Harrell. “What I didn’t know was that that was a critical socialization period for them and not exposing them to things made them more nervous as adults. Now when I foster kittens I do everything I can to get them exposed to as much as possible – loud noises, walking on leashes, strangers, you name it! It all helps them become better-adjusted, healthy adult cats.” Just makre sure your kittens have a positive experience out of any socialization exposure you provide them.

As a new kitten’s parent, it will be up to you to guide her and show her that the world is a wonderful place. Consider trying some of these training and socialization methods:

  • Kittens will generally use litter boxes by instinct, however you can help teach her to use it by placing her in the box after meals and play sessions. Make sure the litter box is always available to your kitten and cleaned frequently
  • Pet her frequently
  • Get her used to weekly combing and grooming.
  • Introduce her to toys
  • Allow her to experience different walking surfaces (carpet, linoleum, etc.)
  • Take her outside on a lead or in her carrier (It can be very dangerous to allow a kitten outside without one.) However, before providing any outdoor exposure be sure your veterinarian has administered the proper vaccines and enough time has passed for your kitten to build immunity.
  • Give her objects to explore, such as boxes and paper bags
  • Play loud music and make noise
  • Have friends over and ask them to play with her and give her treats
  • Provide appropriate scratching alternatives (such as scratching posts) and reward her with toys, praise or treats when she uses them
  • Do not allow her to bite or scratch during play. If she does, redirect her attention to a toy.
  • Expose her to other cats and kittens (as soon as they’re up to date on vaccinations, of course!). There are even kitten socialization classes; do an internet search to see if any are available in your area.
  • Take your kitten on car rides, giving her treats the whole time, and get her used to her carrier.
  • Reward friendly behavior with treats or praise.
  • Do not reprimand bad behavior, instead, ignore her when she displays inappropriate behavior.
  • Challenge your kitten to think by teaching her tricks.
  • Always be patient

3) Make Preventive Care a Priority

To help ensure your kitty has a lifetime of good health, start early in providing her with preventive care:

  • Schedule an appointment early. No matter what, schedule your kitten’s first vet appointment within a week of getting her. Early and frequent vet visits will help socialize your kitten with the vet and help the vet establish a baseline for your kitten’s health.
  • Ask about intestinal parasites, fleas and heartworm. Have a veterinarian check your kitten for worms and intestinal parasites, and have her de-wormed, if necessary. And while heartworms aren’t as much of a problem for cats as they are for dogs, some kittens may be susceptible, so also ask your vet if he or she recommends a heartworm preventative. The biggest parasitic threat to your kitten, however, is fleas. You can start administering topical flea preventatives when your kitten is around 8 to 12 weeks of age — although some brands are formulated for kittens as young as 4 weeks old.
  • Ask which vaccinations your kitten needs and how often: Preventive care for kittens may include vaccines for feline leukemia, rabies and distemper. These shots are usually first administered when a kitten is around 8 weeks of age, with boosters given every few weeks until she reaches 16 weeks of age. After that, your veterinarian can set her up on an adult vaccination schedule. He or she may also recommend additional vaccinations.

These building blocks will give your kitten the best possible start in life, but don’t forget that she’ll still need plenty of attention and care when she gets older.

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How to Take Care of Kittens

Article originally published on Blue Buffalo. Refer to the original article here.

Adopting a kitten or just thinking it over?  There’s probably nothing better than taking home a wide-eyed, velvet-nosed ball of fluff (hey, who’s rescuing who?) but even if you’ve had a kitten before, it’s wise to review the basics.

Best age to adopt

Separating kittens from their biological moms and siblings is best when they’re 10 to 12 weeks old. If the litter hasn’t had much human contact, however, it’s better to bring them home at six to seven weeks old.

As for personality, this may be one time when curiosity doesn’t kill the cat: look for an inquisitive kitten who’s playful, not shy. Above all, pick a cat-itude that complements all family members.

Pre-kitten prep

Before you introduce Kitty to her new surroundings, safely stow items she might chew, swallow or choke on. Keep tissues, paper towels, toilet paper, pens, pencils, rubber bands, jewelry, balloons, and small items out of paw’s reach. If you have other pets, be sure they’ve seen the veterinarian recently so they won’t be sharing an infection with their new sibling.

More cat-proofing tips:

  • Anchor window cords, cap outlets and bundle electronic cords
  • Call the Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435) for a list of deadly plants to avoid
  • Lock acetaminophen (Tylenol) away; it’s deadly to felines
  • Hide roach or ant traps
  • Close toilet lids, washer and dryer doors
  • Close kitchen and bathroom cabinets because household items like bleach, detergent, antifreeze can be very harmful

Kitty’s lair

Choose a secluded room, away from other furry family members, for Kitty to adjust to her new life. If sleeping is a problem, try the time-tested trick of wrapping a ticking clock in a blanket by her bed. Open her carrier and place it nearby along with her food, water bowls, litter box and toys.

Avoid toys with small, moveable parts that can detach easily and choke animals. Dangling string, yarn or ribbons may drive cats batty, but watch that they don’t tangle or choke Kitty. Small stuffed animals and trackballs make the best playthings because they’re safe and stimulate exercise.

You may have more fun watching Kitty play than she’ll even have playing, but you’ll also want to observe her behavior at rest. Sneak a peek at how she moves in and out of her carrier in her new room. If she dashes in fast, she may still need more time to acclimate. If she saunters, you’ll know she’s ready to explore the rest of the house.

Meet the kin

A kitten can take up to two weeks to fully relax, so limit human interactions those first few days, then introduce her to family members slowly, one at a time, so she learns everyone’s touch.

Teach young children how to hold kittens with one hand behind their front legs, the other under their hindquarters. They also need to know that tugging at Kitty’s scruff, ears or tail is a no-no. And, though tantrums may ensue, kids four and under shouldn’t be handling Kitty at all, especially unsupervised.

Other household pets will sniff out their new sibling immediately, so introduce Kitty on her turf; don’t let her have free run of the house because that’s their territory.

Resident cat(s) can check Kitty out briefly while you observe. Should a hissy fit erupt, separate the siblings immediately and try again in a few days. As for Fido, be sure he’s properly leashed when he meets her, plus keep Kitty from running off, otherwise he may think it’s time to give chase.

If all siblings play nice, reinforce their good behavior with well-deserved treats. Also, never leave playtime unsupervised until Kitty is full-grown.

Can we stalk?

Cats have a primal instinct to explore so, at first, let Kitty roam one room at a time. Place her open carrier in the room she’s investigating in case she gets nervous and needs a hasty retreat. Let Kitty explore while you quietly watch closely in case she hides under a bed or scoots under the sofa. If she starts kneading your expensive duvet, put her back on the floor gently to teach her that your bed is off limits.

Open 24 hours

Kittens need lots of nutrients and energy—about two to three times that of cats because they grow so fast. 30% of their total energy should come from protein so be sure to feed them food specifically formulated for them that first year, such as dry kitten food or nutrient-dense kitten-formula canned food. The rest of Kitty’s diet should come from high-quality dry and wet foods, packed with protein and essential amino acids to help give her wholesome nutritional support.

Unlike pups, kittens don’t wolf down all of their food in one sitting so you can conveniently set up an all-day/night buffet. Dry food is convenient because it won’t spoil if it sits for a while; be sure fresh water is always available, too. You’ll also want to keep siblings like Fido from stealing Kitty’s food by putting her bowl in an area others can’t reach.

Mind her business

Kittens instinctively dig to bury their waste, but they still may need some nudging when it comes to doing their business. After Kitty’s finished eating, or had her catnap, introduce her to her litter box. If she doesn’t take to it naturally, guide a front paw and simulate digging. You may need to repeat this process at regular intervals.

For the first few weeks, provide Kitty with the same food, feeding schedule and litter she had before the adoption. You can slowly transition to other litter products and food after she’s adjusted.

First check-up

It’s wise to pre-schedule a veterinarian visit prior to bringing Kitty home so she’s checked within a few days of her arrival. Your vet will look for ear mites, fleas, deworm her, plus give her all the necessary shots and vaccinations.

He/she will also determine the best time to spay or neuter, which can be as early as eight weeks old. Spaying helps protect Kitty from the risk of mammary, uterine and ovarian cancers, and neutering reduces the male’s risk of prostate cancer.  Added bonus: you’ll enjoy a “spray-free” home and less odorous litter box cleanup.

Here Kitty, Kitty

Canines aren’t the only ones who benefit from training. Just like puppy pre-school, kitty etiquette has caught on and you can actually train your cat to come when you call. Plus, if you have more than one kitten, you may need to nip roughhousing behavior in the bud. 

Above all, enjoy every precious moment with the latest member of your extended family!

Kitten Must-Haves

  • Food and water bowls
  • Course-textured 3 ft. high column/post for stretching/scratching
  • Fun, safe toys to promote exercise (e.g., wands, balls, “treat” dispensers)
  • Cat bed lined with a warm blanket or towel
  • A grooming brush/nail clipper
  • Cat carrier
  • ID tag or implanted microchip. Even if Kitty will be queen of the castle, you want to be ready if she sneaks out. A safety collar with an ID tag can bring her home safely.
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5 Puppy Behaviors to Nip in the Bud (And Other Pertinent Puppy Tips!)

This content was originally found on lombardvet.com, and the original article can be found here.

From puppy breath and snuggle seshes to silly selfies and watching them fall asleep right in their food bowls, puppies are, quite frankly, perfection. As veterinarians, however, we always want to make sure that anyone considering taking the puppy plunge understands that, along with all of the good stuff, taking care of puppies can be a lot of work. Not only that, but they are itty bitty balls of energy that require a lot of time and dedication.

It’s not that we don’t want you to enjoy your PuppyPalooza, but we hate when we see them get rehomed for being, well, puppies. But if you’re new to the game, you might not know what’s normal puppy behavior and what’s not. Along with a discussion on that below, we’ll share five puppy behaviors you want to nip in the bud…for your sake and your bitty ball of fur, too!

How can I tell if my puppy has behavior issues?

Your expectations and lifestyle define behavior issues. A behavior that is a problem in one household – such as getting on the furniture – may be welcomed in another. If your pup is practicing behavior that is not ideal in your circumstance, find a way to redirect that energy or reinforce an alternative behavior. Reach out to your veterinarian for help with this.

How much puppy biting is considered normal?

Mouthing and nipping behavior is normal in all puppies….so is peeing wherever they want, unfortunately! The critical question is, what do you want to consider normal in your household? In most situations, we want essentially no mouthing or nipping behavior long-term. The management of the mouthing habit in puppies is vital to a healthy relationship long-term and may be a matter of life and death in some dogs’ lives. Teaching a puppy bite inhibition (or having a soft mouth) is relatively straightforward in most situations. Many veterinarians have helpful handouts on this with guidelines on this process, so be sure to ask.

Why is teaching your puppy how to have a soft mouth so important?

Any dog has the potential to bite in certain situations; for example, if their tail gets closed in the door, if they have an injury out in the woods, or they get startled by a toddler. If a dog has learned bite inhibition as a puppy, they instinctively know how to “pull their punches.” Dogs with good bite inhibition will cause less damage in situations where they reflexively bite.

This bite inhibition is important from a human safety standpoint, but it can become a crucial factor if the dog needs to be rehomed at some point in life. The idea of rehoming your precious pup may be unthinkable right now, but sometimes life changes. A very happy dog with a quiet couple may not adjust well if a baby comes along. We need to set our dogs up for success as much as possible. Dogs that have poor bite inhibition will cause much more severe bites when scared or injured. A serious bite history can be a death sentence for a dog in rescue. It may seem silly to worry about those puppy nibbles, but having a soft mouth is a lesson every puppy needs!

Do all puppies have what’s considered to be a rebellious phase?

The adolescent phase can be a trial in just about any species. This is true for dogs as well. The adolescent phase starts around six months and can last until 2-3 years of age in some dogs. Dog adolescence is a time of testing boundaries, lots of hormonal changes, and often a bit of fear. This mix can lead to many challenges with training and behavior. Surviving the adolescent phase without too much stress can be done with a good training routine, a lot of enrichment, and patience.

How should I discipline my puppy for behaviors that I don’t want to continue?

Discipline or punishment is NEVER the answer. We need to cue and reinforce the behaviors we WANT to see in our pups. Dogs only continue behaviors that work. If we stop (inadvertently, in most cases) reinforcing unwanted behaviors, they will cease eventually. By redirecting to and reinforcing behaviors we want, this extinction of unwanted behaviors will often go away more quickly.

5 Puppy Behaviors to Nip in the Bud

“Good” versus “bad” dog behaviors are a bit of a gray area because, as we mentioned earlier, some behaviors are acceptable in certain families while others are not. There are some puppy behaviors that can be downright dangerous, however, and those are the ones that we want to nip in the bud. Perspectives on this may vary depending on the size and the breed of your puppy.

1. Jumping

Why do puppies and dogs jump on us? In most cases, they want attention and interaction. When we push them away or tell them “No” or “Off”, we’re fulfilling those desires, whether we like it or not. If we want to stop the jumping, we need to give them an alternative. Teach a default sit. This is a foundational behavior that has a million uses – this is just one of them.

When your pup jumps – ignore them. Turn your face or even your whole body away and stay silent until they have all four feet on the floor or even sit. In many cases, a dog with a default sit cue will eventually sit in an attempt to get attention. The MOMENT those feet or the bum hit the ground and stay there for more than a second or so, reinforce!!! (This is why we always need cookies in our pockets.) It’s not going to be pretty or perfect, but in many cases, this is all it takes. Don’t allow your dog to jump up on others, even if they say it is OK. Ask them to turn to the side and ignore the dog. For dogs with a longstanding jumping problem or those that are a bit more stubborn, additional steps may be helpful. Just check in with us or your trainer for some other techniques to build the habit you want. And remember: Punishment never works long-term and will damage your relationship with your pup!

2. Poor Leash Manners

Poor leash manners isn’t a life or death situation, per se, but it can actually be dangerous if your puppy grows into a huge dog and you’re just a tiny human! In general, having an impolite walker is more of a nuisance but, as you can imagine, as dogs get big, bigger, and possibly biggest, this could make for a perilous circumstance if your dog pulls you or, worse, gets off-leash to pursue another dog or a squirrel. Having good leash manners will also help if you are out to keep your dog from jumping up on others. Have your dog sit, you can even step on the leash to keep your dog from jumping up, this will keep them in place for you to either get in front of them to get their attention or to free up your hand so you can have treats ready.

3. Nipping/Mouthing

We’ve covered a bit of this in other topics, but the most dangerous behaviors in puppies are those that can or will affect your relationship long-term, if left unmanaged. The biggest of those would be nipping/mouthing behavior. Early management and intervention is the best thing we can do with any behavior concern. You absolutely cannot check-in enough. Please let us help with anything that comes up!

4. Guarding Behavior

It’s important to understand the difference between guarding and aggression. Guarding is when your dog feels the need to hide or protect what they have, the most common of which are toys and food. They may growl when a person or another pet is near. If left unchecked your dog could develop aggression (lunging and biting) and that is a lot harder to overcome, as it will take professional guidance and a lot of patience.

Avoid tug-o-war with dogs that have guarding behaviors. Have a lot of toys and treats when you are first working with them on guarding. They need to feel comfortable that you won’t take away their toys, and if you do, they need to know that they will get them back. Start off by having the toys close to you, try to stay in the same place, and move slowly. When they drop the toy, give them another toy or a treat, and then give them the toy back. Keep repeating with different toys until your dog becomes comfortable.

If you have another dog in the home, keep the other dog away as you are working with them one on one. Reward your dog when they are allowing the other dog to chew on a toy by either giving them rubs or yummy treats. The message is that they receive good things when their furry sibling is enjoying time with a toy. This is a similar technique to food guarding as well. You can feed them straight from your hand or place handfuls of food in the bowl once they finish and back away, have them wait, and add more food. Having them wait for your OK or release to eat teaches them good manners. If you ever suspect your dog has aggressive behavior, speak to your veterinarian about ways that they can help.

5. Barking

Dogs communicate with you by barking, and letting your puppy know that you are listening is an important part of training and behavior. Letting them know when to be quiet is also part of being a well-behaved dog. This doesn’t mean that you should never let your dog bark, but they should know when it is OK to bark and when it isn’t. Just like with kids, if you let them get away with it, they will continue to do it. You may become immune to the barking but this could be an issue down the road with family, friends, or neighbors.

How soon should I get my puppy into behavior training?

Behavior training such as basic obedience (sit, down, stay) is vital to developing a good line of communication for your puppy, as well as setting clear expectations. Behavior training should start as soon as your pup settles in at home. The much more important aspect of most early training programs is socialization. Any good puppy class will focus most of their time on environmental socialization. Training will also help you and your puppy bond.

The socialization period in puppies lasts from about 3 weeks to 3 months of age. This period is vital for creating a well-rounded and resilient dog. This means that early environmental socialization should be starting while the pup is still with their breeder or foster parent. Early socialization can take place in the form of noises, smells, and textures as well as gentle handling intended to produce very low levels of stress to the pup to help them develop healthy coping mechanisms. As puppies grow and begin entering their adoptive homes, it’s still important to continue this socialization. 70-80% of socialization should be environmental. That means that you should not spend most of your time introducing your pup to other dogs and people. Focus on the world and all the noise, texture, and movement that takes place there. Your payback will be a less fearful, more resilient pup!

The only things most veterinarians would consider truly abnormal behaviors are extreme fear and/or anxiety, signs of aggression (not just playing), or anything that may indicate a medical issue in your puppy such as lethargy, inappetence, circling behavior, pressing their head against a wall, or any sort of vomiting or diarrhea. There’s no way we could list every possible sign of a problem, so never hesitate to call your vet if you have concerns. We’d rather hear from you frequently than have you wait too long when something’s wrong!

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Essentials for your first adventure!

hoshi

Do you have a list of outdoor places that you want to bring your furkid too? If your answer is YES, this article is for you! Here is a list of outdoor essentials that we believe would be very useful for your adventure?️. 

Leash

First on our list, would be leashes. It is very important to have a proper and sturdy leash for your furbaby, as most of the pet-friendly places required them to be leashed.

@pawbulous

If you prefer a leash that is softer and more comfortable for your furkid, be sure to check out Pawbulous’s cloth-based leash. Indulge in Pawbulous’s wide collection of fabrics and they even offer customization for that extra touch.✨

Alternatively, you can opt for biothane leashes for a more sturdy and strong grip on your pet. One of the best parts of having a biothane leash would definitely be, the water and stain proof feature. It is super easy to clean, simply take a wet-wipe and wipe it down when it’s dirty. 

Treats 

Of course on the list would be treats! This item is a must for any furbaby! Treats are definitely critical for any adventures, they are useful to gain your furbaby’s attention especially when there’s distraction around. 

@pawfurry

Check out Pawfurry’s treats?, which come in convenient packs, thus making it easy for you to reward your furbaby without making a mess. 

Use the code pjxpf20 when you check out to receive 20% off your purchase!?

Accessories

Here are some important accessories that you need to bring along for your pet’s adventure.

Poop bags 

Poop-bags are a must-have in your bag as it is super important to clean after your furkid to keep the environment clean. One of our favourite poop bags is from Woofy Goofy, with its biodegradable feature, it can decompose by itself over the span of 6-12 months?. There’s even a cute design on the bag itself! 

@woofygoofy


Quote Pawjourr10 when you check out with Woofy Goofy today!

Poop Bag Holder

For easy access to the poop bags, a poop bag holder would be necessary. There are many poop bags out in the market, however, we really love Josiemamasews’s waterproof poop bag holder. It protects the poop bags and it even has matching scrunchies for hoomums! ?

@josiemamasews

Check out Josiemamasew’s mama shop for more! ?

Water bottle 

You definitely cant miss this item out of your bag. A water bottle is definitely essential for a trip outside as it is super important to keep your pet hydrated at all times! ? Even though some pet-friendly places are open to provide your furkid with a free water bowl, however, it is always good to prepare yourself. 

@shopee

If you’re looking for a good portable water bottle, be sure to check this water bottle out at Shopee! 

That’s all on the list of outdoor essentials that we believe you should bring out on your first trip! We hope that it has been useful and do check out all the local businesses that were featured.

? Keep your eyes peeled on Pawjourr’s website, for more coupons. ?

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Community Stories

What we thought was just a simple cough/cold

Symptoms, diagnosis, treatment
*We are no expert, just sharing our journey*

Cough can mean a lot of things; kennel cough, lung problems, heartworm, etc. Can’t be sure what the root cause is unless seeking help from professionals. 

Symptoms

Dusty started with what doesn’t sound like a cough in 2020 mid-December. It sounded like he was trying to exhale out deep from his lung with like a mini bark (sort of like sighing and barking). He only does that when he wanted to bark/is agitated/excited. So we thought it was him trying to express his emotions but in a different way?? 

After ~3weeks, the cough got more frequent and slowly started sounding like hacking coughs. Within ~2 weeks, it got worst and after cough, it always ends with him retching. 

That’s when we felt that something wasn’t right. 

Diagnosis

Went for a vet visit, did X-ray, and found that his lungs were cloudy. No heart murmur was heard, heart looks normal, just 2 fade white spots that can’t conclude or tell what exactly it was. We were given doxycycline and theophylline to help open his airway. But sadly he still cough and 2weeks later a follow-up was done and showed no improvements, which meant that it wasn’t pneumonia/bronchitis. 

A new medication was given, furosemide (water drawing med), which helps to release water in his body and he sure did pee a lot! Good news! It helps to reduce his cough but that also means that it might be the heart that has been causing the build-up of fluid. An echo was then suggested to check on his heart.

Indeed, after the echo, Dr came up with some conclusion:
Stage C CCVHD
Suspected DCM 
No pulmonary hypertension 

Treatment 

He will be on lifetime medication, pimobendan to be taken daily as well as furosemide when the cough gets worse. Medication will be adjusted on how well his body is reacting to it as we monitor his progression and with follow-up echos (1month from the 1st and following once every 3-6 months).

Currently, we are also adding in grain inclusive kibble in his meals to help counter the suspected DCM, which could be diet-associated that has been causing the weakening of the heart muscles. Eventually with careful diet, exercise and medication we hope to help him live more happily and comfortably.

What to take note/I realized or notice 

We have to pay more attention to his breathing rate when he’s at rest to make sure his heart isn’t overworking (If it is, probably need to adjust med), Coughing frequency (if it got worst or not), he might lose appetite just have to take note of that too, making sure to not overload him with too much walk.

After the diagnosis then I became more attentive to what are the little things that changed. Thinking of it I realized, in the past sometimes he would suddenly stand up from his nap/from resting and started panting. But when he goes back to sleep/lies down he stops panting. 

Now that he eats treats/chew that requires more work to bite he would pant afterward. 

Would appreciate it if you could share with us any similar experience you have and what we can do to help make a dog with heart disease live more comfortably. THANK YOU! 🙂

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Brand Highlights Community Stories

Looking for a trainer? Start here

If you’re looking for a trainer for your furkid, there are a few things you need to consider –

  1. What category of training are you looking for

There is a variety of training available – puppy training, basic obedience training, behaviour modification etc. Before selecting a trainer, know what type of training you are looking for and proceed to look for trainers that offers/specialises in that type of training.

2. What method of training are you comfortable with?

In dog training, there are different types of training methods – Positive Reinforcement, E-collar, Balanced Training etc. Our advise would be to do your research & find trainers who use methods that you are comfortable with.

With these answers in mind, now you can start to look for a trainer for your furkid! In this article, Pawjourr has consolidated a list of recommended trainers that you can consider based on the different training categories & methods.

K9 Kampong

K9 Kampong

K9 Kampong trainer & founder, Su Lin, has a wealth of experience in dog training stemming from her many years of working & living with dogs. She is an AVS accredited dog trainer and is on the Project ADORE trainer’s panel for all 5 AVS endorsed Rehoming Partners.

K9 Kampong offers basic obedience & socialisation classes, puppy training workshops & behaviour modification training. They believe in using force-free, positive only methods in their training programs.

For dogs who require Project ADORE certification, K9 Kampong offers the obedience classes & certification.

Check them out here for more information

Wooga!

Wooga!

Wooga specialises in their 14 days Board & Train program that guarantees a number of obedience commands. They also offer services such as Daycare, Boarding, Handstripping and other unique training programs. 

The foundation of their training is based on creating a balanced relationship and unbreakable bond with the dog with clear communications and a solid foundation. Wooga uses markers and low level E-collar stimulation focusing on effective communication, motivation, enhancing and creating confident and balanced dogs.

They are the only training program in Singapore that guarantees results in a short 14 day period.

Check them out here for more information

Fuwang Dog Training

Fuwang Dog Training

At Fuwang Dog Training, they believe that all dogs can be trained with education & building a solid partnership between owners and their dogs.

Fuwang trained overseas extensively under the guidance of 2 Times World Champion Dog Trainer Ivan Balabanov. He believes that dog training is an art which one must constantly upgrade his knowledge.

Fuwang Dog Training offers services such as Puppy Assessment, Behaviour Modification, Basic Obedience & Extensive In-Depth Rehabilitation.

They are recognised for their behaviour modification & rehabilitation programs.

Check them out here for more information

Puppy Colours

Puppy Colours is a dog training school in Singapore that teaches dog owners to teach their dogs using methods based on behavioural science using positive signals and positive reinforcement. Their training focuses on real-life & social skills and problem prevention along with basic training skills.

Puppy Colours nurtures thinking dogs to make good decisions. They teach them what to do instead of telling them what not to do by finding things that motivates the dog and use that to encourage them to make good decisions.

Focusing on nurturing puppies into becoming a happy and well-mannered member of the family, Puppy Colours is known for their puppy training. They also group classes, private lessons & behaviour modification.

Check them out here for more information

Hop over to Pawjourr here to check out more trainers & their reviews.

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Brand Highlights Community Stories

#Puppyhood Training Treats

Hands up if your puppy works for the food, because mine definitely does ??‍♀️ Training is essential because it sets the foundation for puppies on how to act when they become an adult — especially if you have a husky like me (who is going to grow up to 35kg in the future), it’s definitely important to teach commends like sit – down – stay.

& what more to encourage these little pups than some treats and rewards for their good behavior? We’ve tried different treats and these are some of our favorites. A note that Oolong is extremely food-motivated and not fussy when it comes to food; so definitely check out Pawjourr’s sampling program to redeem free samples before committing to the full-sized products!

01. Instinct Pet Raw Boost

  • An old pencil drawing of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza sitting on their horses, by Wilhelm Marstrand.
Product packaging vs. Product size

Why I’m in love with this product ?

  • I’m super impressed with the entire process of manufacturing Instinct Pet! This brand is from the USA and uses High-Pressure Processing (aka HPP) to create extreme cold pressure for extreme food safety with pure, cold water—no heat, no chemicals, and no preservatives needed.
  • I’ve heard of horror stories of other freeze-dried brands containing worms and it just scares me; with Instinct, I’m really confident about the quality — also because it’s premium and pricey lah.
  • During walks, you are going to be really busy (all the distractions — smells, noises, pulling etc). The last thing you want is your hand being all sticky and gross (did it with his kibbles and urgh) — I like that the raw boosters are of a just-nice size and most importantly, DRY. So i will just pop into Oolong’s mouth when he is behaving well!

Some consideration points ?

  • With puppies, you will need LOTS of treats. Instinct can get a little pricey — selling at $25.90 for 156g on their Shopee’s store. If you are looking to try, you can opt for the smaller packs first to try out different variants and deciding which is your pup’s favourite.

?? Buy Instinct Raw Boost @ https://shopee.sg/pawjourr. Check out our coupon page for discount codes!

02. ZiwiPeak Good Dog Trainings

Ziwi Good Dog Rewards (85g)

Why I’m in love with this product ?

  • Definitely on the calories. It’s advertised to be a nutritious training reward under 6 calories each. I think this is really the main reason why I decided to get this product .. (perhaps also for the free snuggle mat they packaged together previously — please do not buy that dumb bundle set it’s bullshit for $48).
  • The size of the treat — i can’t really show you because i didn’t take a photo, but it’s shaped as a rectangle. Usually when your pup gets very excited, they might “bite” the treat and accidentally chomp on your hand – but because of the way the treat is shaped (in a long way), it helps that you get some “safe space” LOL especially if the teeth super sharp ah.

Some consideration points ?

  • To be honest, there are no consideration points but I guess because Ziwipeak has always been just … that brand that is not bad, I also don’t really see any unique factors that make me stick to them (?) Granted their price is not expensive — selling $15.90 for the lamb on their Shopee here but yeah like it’s just another brand lor.
  • I don’t really know what’s the “unique selling point” of Ziwipeak … so I bought it once and didn’t buy it again cause I felt super cheated by the dumb bundle set LOL.

?? Buy Ziwi Good Dog Treats @ https://shopee.sg/yappypets. Check out our coupon page for discount codes!

03. Wagg Puppy & Junior Treats

https://waggfoods.com/dogs/treats/

Why I’m in love with this product/brand ?

  • I know this is BS but OMG — can someone please give this design agency a pay raise?! I’m in LOVE with Wagg’s new packaging, website and everything just says YES to me when i walk into Pet lovers centre! Long story short, i was shopping for some training treats for Oolong because obviously I wasn’t as prepared as I thought I was — walked into PLC and the packaging just caught my eyes.
  • It’s definitely wallet-friendly (going at $4.00 for 1 packet over at PLC Shopee’s page here) but also that the products are categorized nicely into puppies – sensitive – low fat for me already, which I find very thoughtful and convenient for first-timer like me.
  • The biscuits are also a nice mix-up from the meat and freeze-dried food; though i must say that Oolong focus is much lesser when i use these as training treats.

Some consideration points ?

  • Yes, the treats are made in the USA but if you take a closer look at the ingredients, it might not be something you want to feed daily / a lot on a long-term basis. To be honest, I’m not against carbs or must die die only feed “single-ingredient treat”. I believe that my dog can eat everything, albeit in moderation — you everyday eat veggie also not enough nutrition right????
  • I’ve since stopped buying these though because Oolong has “upgraded” his palate to eat meat only (he started saying NO to these after 3 – 4 packets — woah free things still wanna be choosy ah). But all in all, I think it’s a great treat to mix up with the other food!

?? Buy Wagg Treats @ https://shopee.sg/petloverscentresg. Check out our coupon page for discount codes!

04. Dehydrated Treats

I have so many brands which I want to recommend, but here are just some of my favourites — maybe also because I know the owner personally! ☺️

Why I’m in love with dehydrated treats ?

  • Depending on what you buy — e.g. Chicken is really easy to break into smaller pieces during walks.
  • As I feed Oolong lots of treats during training, knowing that I’m feeding him non-commercialized treats does assure me to a certain extent that he is not just eating “junk food”.
  • Single-ingredient treats so I know that nothing goes in — it’s just 100% protein. Balance is key.

Some consideration points ?

  • Short shelf life. Since dehydrated treats are all-natural, it is important to note that their shelf life might not be as long as your commercial treats.
  • Takes time to deliver. If you are looking for something fast, you can pop into any of the pet shop to pick up your pack of treats. But if you are looking at dehydrated treats, you will need to wait for delivery which can take 3 – 5 working days.
  • Potential scammers. Yes, there are people who are out there to take advantage and I’ve heard of businesses who “MIA” after collecting payment. Make sure you do you research to avoid being cheated!
  • Eventually, all dehydrated treats are more or less the same. This is why it can be difficult to differentiate between brand A vs. brand B.

IN SUMMARY,

This is why we created a new category under pawjourr to help brands stand out from the crowd with reviews and coupons for customers to try. Often, pet owners will just buy from a “bigger” brand because #safe, #everyonebuysfromthem and #ionlyknowthem. I understand that, but maybe we need to give the new brands a chance too!

?? Head over to Pawjourr and leave a review for the brands whom you have tried before. Customer testimonials matter and your feedback (be it positive or negative) will also help other pet owners make an informed choice!

I hope this article gives you a brief idea on where to start looking for training treats for your puppies. Remember —

✅ Dry and doesn’t make your fingers dirty when it touches saliva.

✅ Low calorie — also check ingredients if you know you are going to be a treat dispenser.

✅ Switch up protein; I like to do Chicken, Pork, Lamb, Beef, Kangaroo, etc because I’ve heard of dogs developing certain health issues when they just stick to eating 1 protein (may/may not be true).

✅ Keep within your budget, no need to go broke buying expensive treats just for the Instagram game. It’s your pet — it’s not your followers’ pet.

Do check out our new categories — home-based biz and the coupon page and comment below what do you think! ??‍♀️

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Community Stories

Raising Your Puppy: 6 Tips To Help With Housetraining

This content was found on dogtime.com, and the original article can be found here.

Few things can put a damper on the joy of bringing a new puppy into your home than unwanted accidents. If you are looking for ways to housetrain your puppy, you are not alone.

There are lots of ways to potty train your new puppy, and the good news is your puppy definitely wants to learn! Before you let your pooch get full run of the house, make sure to teach them the house rules and avoid accidents.https://27e34e16f580062fadce6db47bb2a679.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-37/html/container.html

Training a puppy to do tricks, to not chew up your things, and not to have accidents isn’t as difficult as it may feel. Yes, it can be a daunting task, but you can do it!

Here are all the things you need to think about as you start housetraining your new puppy.

1. Confinement May Seem Like A Punishment, But It Will Help

Healthy Bernese Mountain Dog Puppies for sale in outdoor playpen

(Picture Credit: Laura Fay/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

For many, the thought of restricting a brand new puppy to a certain area of the house or a crate may feel awful. Hearing your pup cry out can definitely put your willpower to the test, but keeping your dog in a small enough area will quickly teach them not to relieve themselves inside.

Confinement training is effective for a multitude of reasons. Your puppy will not want to relieve themselves in a small space they can’t leave.

Crate or confinement training also helps keep your puppy safe. For example, if you are not home and let your puppy get free reign of the house, they could get into something toxic or get stuck somewhere.

Eventually, with proper training, your pup will come to consider that space as their own, personal territory. It will be a safe place for them to retreat to when they feel overwhelmed or just want some peace and quiet.

You may find them taking a nap there by choice before long, and they may even prefer it to your human furniture when looking for a resting spot.

2. As Soon As You Let Your Pup Out Of Confinement, Take Them Outside

Lovely smart puppy Border Collie nature, training, agility.

(Picture Credit: Levente Bodo/Moment/Getty Images)

When you first start crate or confinement training your puppy, you may want to play with them as soon as you let them out. Before introducing your puppy to their new favorite toy, take them outside and have them relieve themselves.

Use a command word, like “potty,” “outside,” or whatever works for you to signal to your puppy that it’s time to go out and relieve themselves. Even if you have a gated backyard, you should start with your puppy on a leash so they know it is time to eliminate and not to play.

If you’re home with your puppy throughout the day, you should still keep them in either a doggy playpen or a crate unless you are able to keep all of your attention on them. Let your puppy out every one to two hours to make sure they aren’t sitting in their confined space with a full bladder or bowels.

3. Reward Them Generously

A woman is training her puppy on a field at sunset.

(Picture Credit: Paula Danielse/Moment/Getty Images)

Keep some small treats on you whenever you let your puppy outside to go to the bathroom.

Once they successfully eliminate, be sure to heavily praise and reward them. Your puppy will quickly associate the positive reinforcement they get with relieving themselves outside, and they’ll get the idea that they’re supposed to go potty there.

4. Avoid Yelling At Them If You Find An Accident

Golden retriever puppy looking guilty from his punishment

(Picture Credit: Alex Sokolov/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

If you leave your puppy in their crate and you return home to a soiled situation, resist the urge to shove your pup’s nose in it or yell at them.

Your puppy will not associate the punishment with the act of soiling, as you did not catch them in the act. Yelling at your puppy could actually lead to the opposite effect of housetraining–they could start submissive urination to prove to you that they aren’t a threat.

They could also develop neurotic behavior, like hiding or even eating their poop to avoid punishment.

5. You Can Use Turf To Train Your Puppy Indoors

Puppy makes for the first time in the garden

(Picture Credit: Dieter Meyrl/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

If you live in a five-story walk-up or you get a puppy when it is freezing cold outside, it may be difficult to let your puppy out every couple hours. This doesn’t mean you can’t still successfully train your puppy how to relieve themselves outside.

Set up a space–be it in a mudroom, in the corner of their playpen, or near the back door–that you can designate for your puppy to use the restroom. There are pee pads made of turf that can help your puppy transition from relieving themselves inside to doing so outside.

6. Putting Your Puppy On A Sleep Schedule Can Help, Too

Dalmatian puppy is peeing on the tiled floor of its owners home.

(Picture Credit:SolStock/iStock/Getty Images Plus)

Now, you won’t be able to magically dictate when your puppy falls asleep and wakes up, but in order to make sure your puppy is able to grow into a dog who can relieve themselves on your schedule, you’re going to want to set up a routine for your pup.

For example, puppies usually need to urinate within half a minute or so of waking up. If you want to get some things done in the morning before walking your pup, perhaps they should sleep in their confined space–not in your room–so they don’t wake up as soon as you do.

Conversely, many people find that walking their puppies first thing in the morning helps keep them from hitting the snooze button half a dozen times, so you may want your pup to sleep in the same room as you.

It may take some trial and error, but you and your pup will find a groove in terms of relieving themselves in the proper manner. By taking your puppy out at the same times throughout the day–moreso at first, and then slowly weening them to every four to six hours instead of every hour–they will know when they can expect to go outside and relieve themselves.

Dogs thrive on structure, and this will help stabilize your relationship with your puppy as well.

Do you have any tips or tricks on how to housetrain a puppy? Any frustrations you encountered? Let us know in the comments below!

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How to Train Your Puppy to Go on Potty Pads

dog
Cute Jack Russell Terrier dog puppy doing his toilet, pooping

Article originally published on TheSprucePets. Written by Adrienne Kruzer. Refer to the original article here.

For more information, feel free to check out this comprehensive guide on indoor potty training here.

Potty training a new puppy can be difficult if you don’t know what to do, but there are several aids you can use to help your puppy go potty where you want it to go. Using potty pads (also called puppy pads, or pee pads) is one way to help teach your puppy where it is appropriate to use the bathroom. Consistency is key to this training technique, which you can then use to also teach your puppy to eventually potty outside.

Choosing a Potty Pad

The idea behind using a potty pad is to provide a visible, consistent area for your puppy to go potty. You’ll want to choose something that is absorbent, easy to clean up, and large enough for the messes that your specific puppy makes. Large breed dogs may need heavy duty options compared to toy breeds. Newspapers, paper towels, cloth towels, and store-bought pee pads or indoor/outdoor carpet potty stations are all options.

Newspaper and paper towels can be messy and difficult to clean up after your puppy potties on them, but they are inexpensive. Cloth towels are absorbent but will need to be washed regularly, and your puppy is more likely to try to chew on it like a blanket or toy. Store bought pee pads are the most popular option due to their absorbency, size options, and ease-of-disposal. If you plan to train your small dog to use the potty indoors, then indoor/outdoor carpet potty stations specifically designed for dogs are good options.

Introduce Your Puppy to the Potty Pads

Allow your puppy to see and sniff the potty pads you chose. This will help it get used to the new item so it isn’t scared of it at potty time. Let your puppy walk on the pad while you repeat a consistent command that you plan to say at potty time, such as “go potty.”

Anticipate When Your Puppy Will Potty

While potty training your puppy, you’ll need to keep them close by so that you can anticipate when they are about to go potty. There are a few key times and behaviors to watch for that will help you anticipate your puppy having to urinate or defecate:

  • Puppies usually potty after sleeping, eating, drinking, and after playing. After your puppy does one of these things, you’ll want to pick it up about 15 minutes later and place it onto the potty pad in anticipation of it having to urinate or defecate.
  • If your puppy starts sniffing around on the ground instead of playing or chewing on a toy, this is a good indication that it needs to go potty. You’ll want to pick it up and place it on the potty pad if it starts doing this.
  • Your puppy may have to go potty every two to three hours. Get in the habit of taking your puppy to the potty pad every few hours.

Reward Your Puppy

Praise and treats work wonders with puppies. If your puppy goes potty on its potty pad, make sure you immediately praise it. This can be verbal in an excited tone of voice, by petting your puppy, or by giving it a special, soft treat reserved only for potty time.

Be Consistent

Keep your puppy on a regular schedule. This will make it easier for you to anticipate when your puppy may need to potty.

Say the same command phrase each time.

Keep the potty pad in the same place until your puppy starts going to the potty pad by itself. Once your puppy knows what to do on the potty pad, you can slowly move it closer to the door or outside where you want your puppy to eventually use the bathroom without the use of the potty pad.

Training Mistakes to Avoid

Do not encourage your puppy to pull or chew on the potty pad, eat food on it, or play on it. This may confuse your puppy as to what the purpose of the potty pad is.

Do not move the potty pad around until your puppy knows what it is for and is going potty on it consistently.

Be sure to find and use a treat that your puppy is really excited about getting. This will help with the training process.

Problems and Proofing Behavior

If your puppy isn’t making it to the potty pad on time, try putting it closer to where it usually plays or eats, and then slowly move it closer to the door if you aim to eventually teach it to potty outside.

If you are having issues keeping an eye on your puppy and it has accidents when you aren’t looking, try the following strategies:

  • Add a bell to its collar to help you hear where it is.
  • Leave the leash on for the puppy to drag behind it, which will leave somewhat of a trail for you to follow.
  • Consider putting your puppy in a crate or exercise pen to nap, which may encourage it to whine if it has to potty since dogs don’t like to mess where they also sleep.

If your puppy seems to be constantly urinating, talk to your veterinarian about potential problems that some puppies are known for having.