I hardly appear on Hoshi’s account, if you’re unaware that Hoshi had an aunt, helloo! ?
Hoshi and me (hooaunt) at Wooftopia
Today I’m going to share why after getting Hoshi, I don’t think I can be a hoomum of another fur baby.
I care for Hoshi along with my sister, I mainly help out to feed him and just take care of him in general. Even though I am not the main caretaker for Hoshi, it has been a difficult journey. Caring for a puppy takes a lot of time and commitment, there’s much to take note for him.
Smol Hoshi taking a nap in his old crate
Sitting on the sidelines, watching my sister sacrifice her personal time and her wallet for Hoshi, I am in awe of her efforts and hard work. Hoshi isn’t a difficult puppy to take care of, he’s very smart and super sweet. He knows where to pee and poo which is usually the most troubling issue for most pawarents. Something really magical ✨ about having dogs is that Hoshi knows when we are happy and when we are sad. I got to experience that myself and it was such a memorable moment, I am sure that it will remain forever in my heart.
I had just came back from work, and was feeling a little down. I think Hoshi realised that I was a bit upset, he started to cuddle with me. It was unusual because, at that time, he would usually be quite active when someone comes home. However, that little cuddling session with him really healed me and it felt very special?.
Hoshi being a cuddly boi after sensing that im sad ?
Having said all that, having a dog is wondrous thing however, there are things that i did not expect as well.
Separation Anxiety
Whenever we leave the house, Hoshi cries and whines and it’s really heartbreaking to hear and see him like that?. After he gets tired from crying, he would lay his head in between the gate and watch us leave. I guess leaving him alone at home is inevitable and it’s definitely a process that we have to go through.
Hoshi being a sad boi when we leave for work
Hoshi being a happy boi when we come back
Time and Commitment
Having a pup takes up a lot of time and commitment. Starting from the basic care, his meals, his walkies, and hygiene, these are just some of the important things to take note of. ?
His meal times, Hoshi can be quite picky with his food at times, so we try to add in a bunch of variety for him. However, that would also mean that we would have to be on the constant lookout for new things for him to try. Thankfully, Pawjourr has a sampling program, where we can try out different things before purchasing the full-sized products.
Hoshi enjoying the free samples from Pawjourr!
Moving on to his walkie sessions, we try to walk him everyday however when it is raining, we can’t bring him down. In replacement, we would play fetch with him to waste his energy and spend some time with him.
Hoodad teaching him how to jump
As for his hygiene, we would have to brush his teeth, clip his nails, and care for him like a baby! It is a lot of work, but it is necessary for the lil baby!
Hoshi’s cupboard –> where we store all of his things!
These are just the very little things that you would need to care for a puppy! It really takes a lot of effort and courage to love a puppy! Hoshi is a great blessing in our lives, and we are so in love with him!
For all those who are considering getting a puppy, please know that there’s a lot of hard work that comes from caring for one, but of course a lot of love as well. For all the pawrents out there, hats off to you guys! Lastly, for all the hooaunts/hoouncles that are just like me, keep loving your furbabies!
Smol Hoshi taking pictures ?
Follow @hoshisheltie on Instagram to follow us on our journey.?
I adopted Gigi back in 2017. I was a pawrent noob. Never owned a dog before, hardly knew anyone who owned a dog and knew nothing about Singapore Specials(SS). I did not know what to expect upon adopting and there were times i wondered if I was making a mistake.
My adopted SS – Gigi
One thing you have to know before adopting a SS is that they are all different – personalities, traits & temperament. There is no one-size fits all when it comes to Singapore Specials. I know of super timid, fearful SS but there are also SS who are very confident & friendly.
Gigi is a fearful dog who expresses her fear through aggression. When I first met her, I was told that she was aggressive towards other dogs and also very apprehensive towards strangers, especially in the house. Despite not knowing how to handle an “aggressive” dog, her pitiful past and adorable face moved me and I had to bring her home. She warmed up quickly to me and my family and that’s when I thought it was fate. Apart from her temperament, Gigi is all sorts of perfect – independent, house-trained and all-round well behaved. She could be left alone at home without a problem and she wouldn’t end up destroying the house.
Though she does not look it, she is fearful aggressive
But I struggled greatly with her temperament. She would bark at neighbours, lunge at other dogs, she even tried attacking strangers before. I started to live in fear of her accidentally injuring another dog or human which led to avoiding walking at crowded places or peak hours, waiting endlessly for an empty lift and refraining from inviting people over for dinner. Those were the times I asked myself if I had made a mistake adopting her.
I attempted to train her, engaged trainers, sent her for daycare all in hopes of helping her. There were failures and successes, there were times I really wanted to give up. Only when I came across our very last trainer did things change for us. It took a lot of conditioning, firm handling and hard work but I saw the changes in her. Both our lives have changed for the better and I cannot be more grateful.
If you asked me if I think adopting Gigi was a mistake – no, she is the best thing that happened to me and my family. And if given the choice I would still adopt her. But, there are some things I learned along the way and for anyone who is looking to adopt a SS, I would encourage you to consider these 3 things –
Be prepared – There were so many things I wished I knew before adopting, like how to handle her temperament & what to expect. That would have saved us from ending up living in fear and feeling hopeless.
Understand Singapore Specials – They may come with their trials & difficulties. SS are known to be skittish & fearful. Understand the temperament of the dog you are adopting be ready to make the commitment.
Do not give up – The journey may not be easy but it is rewarding and don’t give up on your furkid once you have made the commitment.
Hang in there pawrents!
There is no journey like the one you embark on with your dog. The key is to know what you are getting into and never give up.
For people that know me personally. I am very candid and transparent about my dog’s (Kobe) behaviour. I often tell people not to do certain things because my dog might or will become aggressive. Although I might sound rude and too straightforward sometimes, my intentions are good, because it’s for the benefit of the dog and the human.
Am I a victim of Kobe’s aggression? The answer is yes. I often tell myself that I would rather he bite me, than anyone else gets hurt.
So what is resource guarding?
Resource guarding is when a dog reacts when they feel threatened by a valuable resource in their possession. It feels that they are about to lose whatever they have, so they take action to guard it. Resource guarding doesn’t (often for my case) always have to end with growling, lunging, biting, or fighting by doing that is to discourage another to take, or get too close to, an object or valued area in the dog’s possession. Sometimes it could be as simple as a look, head turn, or slight baring of the teeth.
Well, the thing is that guarding resources is a natural instinct. We humans guard our own resources too. Access to resources like food, water, and a safe space is essential to survival. It’s hardwired into animal nature to protect the things we believe we need to survive. While it is a normal dog behavior, it’s not a desirable one. Resource guarding becomes a dangerous problem if a dog is willing to bite or fight to keep an item. This is especially worrisome in a home with young children, elderly family members, or if the dog is not predictable in what items they decide to guard. In multi-dog households or environments, resource guarding becomes a problem if the dogs resort to fighting over their resources, and the environment is not managed to prevent these conflicts from escalating.
Guarding toys
So like what Cesar Millan says
“ There are three degrees of food aggression:
Mild: the dog growls and may show its teeth.
Moderate: the dog snaps or lunges when approached.
Severe: the dog bites.
While it’s easy to assume that all cases of food aggression are a show of dominance, this isn’t necessarily the case. In a dog pack, the alpha dogs always eat first after a successful hunt, and then the other dogs get what’s left according to their pack position.
For an Alpha, showing food aggression is a form of dominance, but for dogs with a lower pack position, it can be a sign of anxiety or fearfulness. Remember, in the wild, dogs never know where or when their next meal will be, so it’s very instinctual for them to gobble up whatever food there is whenever they have it — and to protect it from anything that approaches.”
Guarding toys.
Common Items That Trigger Resource Guarding in Dogs
While most often seen around food items, a dog can develop resource guarding with any item that they deem “valuable.” This might be something we don’t consider very important, like a ball, but that ball could be your dog’s most beloved possession.
Food and Treats
Food Bowl (filled with food or empty)
Bones and Edible Dog Chews
Toys
Space (dog bed, crate, their position on the couch or bed)
Their owner (from other pets in the home or even from other people)
Signs of Resource Guarding in Dogs
These are the most obvious signs of resource guarding:
Growling
Snarling (Bare teeth)
Lunging and Air Snapping (a no-contact bite)
Biting
Kobe my dog, does all the above.
For mild and moderate case of resource guarding, a dog might show less intense (and therefore less obvious) signs of guarding behaviour. I am not a certified in anything but what I believe is that you will often see these more subtle signs like:
Freezing
Eating faster
Taking item and moving away
Braced body position over the item
Side eye staring or tracking of the person or pet approaching
Raising lips and baring teeth
Ears pinned flat against the head
death stare
I am trying to let Kobe know that there’s no need to guard food, toys, or space because we are family, and we live together. So now I’m trying to teach Kobe to give up something to me willingly. “Drop” / “Leave it” use a balance training and reward, so that hopefully resource guarding will not worsen over time.
Unfortunately, I started my way of dealing with Kobe’s resource guarding all wrong. So let me tell you that Using punishment and aversives as a response to resource guarding can result in more resource guarding.
So… Base on my blood, sweat and tears, I’ve concluded what we should NOT to do if your dog growls or shows other signs of resource guarding.
Don’t Punish the Growl
Never punish a growling dog. You can punish away a growl, sure, but all you’ve done is make a dog bite more likely. If your dog learns that growling to express their discomfort at your approach results in an aversive (such as yelling, hitting, a “tap” from a shock collar), and the loss of the item they were guarding, the next time you reach for it, they’re more likely to skip the growl and go straight for a bite. (Which is what happened to me)
If someone keeps stealing my mala shaker fries after asking them to stop, the next time they reach across the table, I might smack their fingers away (or worse … so don’t steal my shaker fries). Ignored warnings will escalate behavioral responses, in both humans and dogs. You don’t want to take away important warning signs that your dog needs to communicate with you.
Don’t “Play” With Their Food and Chews
Someone once told me after I expressed my concerns with Kobe’s Resource guarding issues is that: “To prevent resource guarding, we’d always stick our hands in our dog’s food bowl while they were eating, or randomly take away their chew. That way, they know who’s boss and that the food or chew belongs to us.” Instead of fixing the issues, now Kobe will just bare teeth and snaps when I reach for the bowl or lashes out even if I was just standing there or walking past him.
All you’re doing is annoying your dog and teaching them that when you reach for something, they’ll lose it. So please don’t be like Me.
Don’t Leave Out Items That Your Dog Might Guard
Kobe loves to guard hard chews or any form of treats that takes time to eat, so I DO NOT GIVE HIM ANY. I will just remove the opportunity of him guarding. Don’t leave items lying around that your dog might find valuable enough to guard. I pick up his food bowls between meals after he finished eating and have walked away.
Once I gave Kobe a Kangaroo Rib. He took it up my sofa to enjoy it for a while, and I went to the kitchen to grab a drink and return back to the sofa just to sit down and continue my Netflix. I wasn’t even gonna take the chew, or to touch him, but he side-eyed me and gave me a low growl, and bared his teeth slightly. I immediately stopped myself from sitting down, and I called him into the kitchen and trade him with an air-dried mince lamb and while he’s enjoying it, I quickly rush to the sofa and remove the rib, and then never bought those ribs again. BUT IF only all my resource guarding encounters with Kobe were that simple.
So now you’re wondering, did I manage to successfully desensitise the behaviour?
I am still working on it as I’m writing this article.
Every day I’m risking my hand getting bitten, or chewed off. But it’s all about being consistent. It’s not about you being afraid that you might get bitten, and just allow your dog to do its thing even if he is the sweetest thing on earth and that One behaviour is undesirable, and that’s ok. NO ITS NOT OK.
Kobe my dog, he doesn’t have a lot of self-confidence, so every day I am trying to build up his confidence and teach him that his food and space are safe with humans around.
Theres are a few guarding behaviour that I’m known of, as of now.
Guards his food.
Guards any treats that cannot be eaten immediately.
Guard his space when he’s resting.
Guard his bed, during bedtime.
SO what is my own process of desensitisation and conditioning training? I am not certified, and all dogs work differently, so here’s mine:
Part 1
For food guarding aggression a friend advised me to let my dog work for its food, and hand feed IF I CAN.
First week of desensitisation for food aggression.
Sit stay before mum mum
I put Kobe on a sit-stay command right in the middle of the living room where’s he doesn’t feel cornered. I stand about a meter away in front of him while he is having his meal. Each day I move a bit closer to him to test the threshold of the aggression.
Second Week of desensitisation.
I have already made sure that he is now cool with me hanging around while he is having his meal. Now I proceed to his food bowl while he is eating.
At first, he isn’t very comfortable with me making eye contact with him while he is eating off from the bowl I am holding. So I will avoid eye contact while just holding the bowl while he is eating. Every day I will move my body bit by bit to face him and eventually let him realise it’s ok to make eye contact.
Third Week of desensitisation.
I will ask Kobe to go back in sit-stay halfway while eating. Then remove the food bowl, and put it back again, and eat on command. Just to let him know that it is okay, the food is gonna come back.
Fourth Week of desensitisation.
I made Kobe do a bunch of tricks to work for his food, and I start hand feeding. And his food is used as a form of treat to reward him for doing tricks. While hand-feeding Kobe. I will often make some physical contact bit by bit. To make him realise it is ok to feel all these things while eating because the food won’t run away.
And now I am just doing this everyday.
As for guarding treats that cannot be eaten immediately. I just don’t buy that kind of treats anymore.
Guarding his personal space while sleeping.
First week of desensitisation for personal space aggression.
The nun awaken?
This period I am trying to find out how close can I be around him while he is resting. And when he starts to growl or side-eye me. I will stop and just sit there use my phone, and once he realise I’m just sitting there minding my own business, he falls back asleep. So for the first week, I just sit at the rough distance that we both establish to be okay for me to hang around.
Second Week of desensitisation.
I start to move closer to him. And now I am almost right by his side. He starts to get angry at me when he feels me around him physically. Meaning if his butt touches my thigh, he gets angry. So I just hang around 1-2cm away from his body and mind my own business again.
Third Week of desensitisation.
I start to put my hands on him. Just placing it on him gently and slowly without moving.
Fourth Week of desensitisation.
The patting on the chest is a way of me coping my fear.
I start to do mini intermediate stroking sessions. Maybe between 5-10 seconds I will stop and freeze my hands on him. And if he shows he is ok, I will do another 5-10 seconds and repeat.
So now I am still trying to desensitise the personal space when he has tired aggression, I just recently got bitten again after being too confident and trying my luck.
Key is that you just have to keep working on it even if you’re scared. I am scared, but I love Kobe. So I will do it.
Selfie while he is going to sleep. That took some courage for me.
Its all about rehabilitation. Being patient is the key.
Japanese Spitzes are one of the most popular dog breeds for owners in Singapore, with more and more people starting to adopt/purchase them.
To shed some light on what it’s like living with a Spitz, Pawjourr had a chat with the hoomans of Orithespitz, legendthespitz and hweeventures to learn about their experiences!
In this first article, we’ll be discussing some essential items you need when caring for a Spitz, the journey through puppyhood, and some common myths about these loveable furballs!
Introduce Yourselves!
Orithespitz (O): Ori is an extremely energetic dog who is in constant need for affection, love, and cuddles from his hoomans! At any given time, one part of his body must be touching us, and he seeks comfort in us whenever he gets frightened. Despite these, his biggest joy in life probably comes from food and he would drop anything to be given a snack of any kind.
Legendthespitz (L): Legend is pretty much a hyperactive kiddo and he has grown to be more affectionate towards us ever since CB started! Oh yes, Legend is a greedy boy too, forever eyeing on our food tho he just had his dinner! I’d say he is mischievous, greedy and cuddly.
Hweeventures (H): Hwee is a chill pill who thinks she’s the boss of the house. She’s an absolute joke and loves juding her humans (especially when you don’t feed her). She’s an absolute softie and loves cuddles. You’re only allowed to love her and only her. On a daily basis, she makes us laugh with her silly antics. So I guess to sum it up, she’s a bossy, drama, derpy princess who loves being loved!
Q: What were some of your must-have products when you first brought your dogs home?
L: Potty training aid! It took Legend a few hours to do his business on the pee tray. Be prepared that the training aid will stink up the apartment! Also, we would give Legend positive reinforcement when he peed/poop-ed on the pee tray.
On top of that, PetStain & Odour Remover as well, it was a life saver when it came to potty messes! it helps to eliminate stains and odours on the floor and keeps them from marking the same spots! Absorb Plus AntiBacterial Pet Wipes are also definitely a must have! We’ve been using it since the day we brought Legend home.
Brushes are also very important to have. As Spitzes are double-coated, they shed like mad at least twice a year. We brushed his fur once every 2-3 days to remove the loose and dead hair.
H: When we first brought her home, we didn’t have any items for her and we panicked! We picked up the necessaries such as pee pads, bowls for water/food and other toiletries. We also got her a toy so she had some company as she’d probably need a friend too!
However, most of the essentials we bought didn’t last 3 months, as we ended up buying her better quality necessities and accessories. Some of our great essentials now include our no rinse paw cleanser, absorb plus pet wipes and sturdy collars and leashes.
ALSO! Remember to puppy-proof the house, as Hwee used to love rummaging through the trash and tearing the tissue paper inside. She also spent her initial days stealing bread that we left around the house!
O: We honestly weren’t sure what were essential items to buy when we first got Ori, as we were just too excited to get a puppy! We ended up getting a lot of hand-me-downs from a friend, which consisted of an old collar and leash, an old cage, some old odour and stain remover and the few things that the pet store told us to purchase (de-wormer, ear cleaner).
Q: What was it like during the first few days of having a Spitz?
H: When she first came home, she didn’t need much introduction because she immediately jumped on our sofa and made herself comfy! We did however need to familiarise her with where to pee in the house and she was pretty confused, so we had many incidents of us cleaning up the wooden floors!
During the adjustment period, we felt it was important to let her make her own decisions about where she wanted to eat her dinner, sleep and other things. Granted boundaries were important, but we felt like getting her comfortable was more important for us because we wanted her to feel at home.
O: There was only myself and my husband to be introduced to, and he quickly adjusted to us. He bounded onto our laps whenever we came home. Instead of him adjusting to us, it was us trying to adjust our daily schedules so that we could rush home as early as possible to be with our bundle of joy. I remember skipping lunch just to rush home!
L: Legend was really nervous on his first day home, which is normal because of the new environment and unfamiliar faces. Legend and my mom clicked right away, and she started showing him around the house. we let him run around to familiarise himself before putting him in the crate. I believe it is important to leave your puppy in the crate to set boundaries.
Q: Is the daily routine of a Spitz any different from other dog breeds?
O: I would think that Spitzes are very playful with mostly great energy levels, so they do require some mental and physical stimulation ever day. I enjoy doing simple training + IQ toys, as well as long walks to keep him going!
H: I think because Spitzes are highly social, they prefer to interact with their humans all the time! So, I believe that’s a bit different. Spitzes need to cuddle and show their humans love in some ways, as compared to some dogs who are fully okay if you leave them alone!
Other than that, I think the daily routine is quite similar, just that you probably need to vacuum the house a little bit more!
L: Spitzes generally possess high energy levels and thus daily walks or any interactive activities would be good for them!
For Legend’s case, he loves zoomies and running around freely with no restrictions. We’ll usually bring him to an open field for him to do free runs! And yes, DO vacuum the floor daily!
Q: What are some common myths about Spitzes that you think should be addressed?
O: The biggest myth is that they shed twice a year. In reality, they shed ALL the time! We end up vacuuming the entire house only to find a floating fur ball just five minutes later, and we ended up investing in a robot vacuum that specialises in animal fur!
H: I have 2 myths!
Myth 1: Some people say spitzes are home bodies and don’t need to be walked regularly.
In reality, I think it’s so important for dogs to go on regular walks! They should be exposed to and comfortable with the environment around them, as it’ll help to build their confidence and the difference is really apparent!
As a bonus, your dog also has the chance to meet other dogs and socialise, which is good for them. Hwee had a hard time doing that because she wasn’t properly social at a young age, so it took a bit of time to correct that.
Myth 2: Japanese Spitzes are made for the cold.
NOPE! In reality, they actually prefer milder temperatures, but I think that differs from dog to dog as well. Hwee prefers sleeping in our bed under the blanket! We usually leave the air-con on at night, so it might be a sign that she prefers slightly cooler temperatures. I do know of dogs who prefer sleeping on the floor though.
L: I agree with Ori’s hooman, they shed every SINGLE day! But I do notice that heavy shedding occurs once every 3-4 months.
– – –
THE WOOF AGENCY would like to thank Orithespitz, legendthespitz and hweeventures for sharing about their experiences!
In the coming weeks, Pawjourr will also be sharing about some dieting and health tips when it comes to caring for Japanese Spitzes. Stay tuned for those articles!
Previously, I wrote about the things you should note if you’d like to get a pet (i.e., dogs, cats), and what it’s like to work in a pet environment. To summarise my previous article; you should definitely consider getting a pet if you’re able to look after it (cleaning up its poop, pee, feeding it etc). If you’re unable to, then my recommendation is working in a pet-friendly environment, as it gives you the ability to see what it’s like to own a pet, without actually owning it.
I also mentioned that I don’t own any pets. Unfortunately, I might have unintentionally misled you. After writing and publishing my article, I remembered that my father actually owns fishes. Due to the fact that they reside in my house, it gives me partial ownership over them as well.
Therefore, I thought it’d be worthwhile to share my experience when owning pet fish, and what are some do’s and don’ts when ensuring their well-being.
DO’s Purchase Anti-Chlorine for the Tank This is a CRUCIAL point to note when keeping fish at home. The chlorine in the water will make your fish sick, and will eventually end up killing it if you don’t add it in. You can purchase one from the aqua-shop that you buy your fish & tank from, and it’s not every expensive!
Usually what I do is add just a few drops right after I finish cleaning the tank. DO NOT add more than that because too much can make your fish sick!
Have Enough Space for your Fish One of the most common misconceptions is that you can pack quite a few fish in one tank. Unfortunately, that isn’t the case. For example, goldfish can grow up to 14 inches in the wild, and their size depends very much on the space around them. As such, it’s important to note the type of fish you
Fish can also get claustrophobic if they don’t have enough space, so it’s important to note that you need to give them enough room to move.
Provide Companionship When kept in captivity, it’s good to provide your fish with some company, because they can actually get stressed from being alone (which could eventually lead to death).
For those of you who DO have standalone fish, some common signs if your fish is stressed include: 1. Fishes coming up to the surface to gasp for air (could also be due to poor oxygen quality) 2. Fishes not eating their food
Keep some of the Previous Water when Cleaning the Tank If there is a large change in water quality/quantity, fishes can get stressed/sick and die. It’s important to reuse some of the previous tank water when cleaning the tank, to prevent too radical a change in the tank.
DON’TS Overfeed your Fish Similar to land-based pets, if you overfeed your aquatic buddy, they’ll of course create more poop. As a result, the amount of ammonia and nitrate in the tank will significantly increase, polluting the tank and affecting the fishes health.
Of course, a solution to this is increasing the frequency of cleaning the tank, but not everyone may have the ability to do this. My recommendation is feeding them once in the morning, and once at night. However, some breeds of fish require more food than others, so do a quick check online to ensure you’re feeding them enough, too.
FORGET TO CLEAN YOUR TANK The more you forget, the dirtier the tanks going to be and your fish are going to S U F F E R. Please don’t forget!
CONCLUSION Contrary to what many people believe, fish need quite a bit of care in order to be at their best. While they don’t require as much love and affection as dogs or cats, they do need attention at least once a day, and shouldn’t be neglected for long periods of time.
Additionally, if you’re already the owner of some wonderful fish, you may consider taking it a step further and try aquascaping! I’ll be discussing this in further detail in the coming weeks as well.
– – – Feel free to comment below about other topics you’d like me to discuss!
Henlo, its me again! After my last article on puppyhood blues, I’m here with another article on what are some of the stuff you should get prior to the arrival of your pup!
MAIN FOOD FOR YOUR PUPPY
Information nugget
You definitely need to get food for your puppy – but with all the choices out there, what exactly should you be feeding?
Most pet shops have partnerships with certain pet food brands where they get sponsored free kibbles to feed their puppies. Since most peeps who buy from pet shops are first-time owners, the pet shop will advise the owners to continue feeding the same pet food brand (and continue to buy from them), which is a win-win situation for the supplier and pet shop since they get themselves a long-term customer.
My 2 cents:
Do your research. Whilst it can be confusing, do your research and try to find a pet food brand that fits your pup’s lifestyle and budget. For smaller breeds, you might want to choose kibbles which are designed to be smaller in size to help with eating. If your pup is mostly indoors and has a low to moderate exercise regime, you can consider feeling brands that cater to low-energy or indoor pets to prevent obesity.
The general rule for food transition (even between kibbles – kibbles), do so slowly over a period of about 7–10 days, mixing an increasing amount of new food with old food each day:
Start with 75% old food mixed with 25% new food for approximately three days. Then mix 50% old with 50% new for approximately three days. (credit @petco.com)
Buy online. With the push to go digital, many brands are selling on marketplaces like Shopee, Lazada and there are tons of online pet shops sprouting up every single day. Take advantage of this.
Use discount codes, do price comparison,s and get the food delivered to you for free!
We like to buy from Shopee because we get coins and there are lots of discount codes from fellow pet ambassadors on Instagram.
ENDING NOTE;
Main food. You might want to buy a smaller packet to make sure your dogs love it before buying more. For us, we are feeding Taste of the wild Puppy Prairie.
I have hyper-link all the products which we have gotten for Oolong over time in the table above, with some additional notes:
Pee Pad Trays. I put pee pad trays as optional because I didn’t particularly felt that it helped in any way, given that he would still step on the trays which have his pee. There’s also a constant odor since we only wash it once a week.
Crate. Initially, I wanted to do crate training but eventually realized that Oolong is not as destructive even when he is home alone and has free roam. We did buy a cage but it’s too weak to contain him so we are looking to sell it away.
Multi-way cruiser leash. I was hesitant at first but eventually invested in a multi-way cruiser leash and omg, I love itttttt. We have been using it so much because it just gives us a lot of freedom when we bring Oolong for walks. It’s also harder for him to “drag us” because we will layer the leash over our body and he can’t overcome our body weight.
Interactive toys. I placed this under optional because some dogs doesnt need the mental stimulation, like Milky. He doesn’t play with toys and rather sleep the afternoon away. For Oolong, he has bursts of energy throughout the afternoon and gets restless when is unable to release them. I got a snuffle toy and some interactive ones for him from Shopee and so far, the snuffle mat has been doing its job to keep him VERY busy. If you have meetings and need 30mins of quiet time, it might be worthwhile to invest in these.
Dog cologne. I put this as optional since I don’t think everyone needs one, but OMG I loveeee the one from Doggie balm. In fact, everyone in the office loves it so much that we all bought it for our dogs. Bath times can be crazy and chaotic and not something you look forward to because you get wet and your puppy might struggle to escape. So whilst it is not a long-term solution, we use the dog perfume to neutralize the odor of Oolong and it lasts for 1 full day. YES, we highly recommend the one from Doggie Balm!!
ENDING NOTE;
Consider buying preloved items. For the cage & pee pad trays, I bought them from carousel because I didn’t feel the need to buy brand new ones. These are stuff that your puppy will outgrow, so there’s no point to invest (in my opinion). I also checked out this telegram chat to see what’s out there.
Buy as you go along. You will feel the urge to buy everything (crazy pet parent alert). I bought the cooling mat and dog bed for Oolong but he rather sleeps on the floor since it’s much cooling for him. I eventually sell it away hahahahha.
TRAINING TREATS
Photo credit: dogtime.com
You are going to need A LOT of training treats. So it’s super important to buy a dog training bag (which I included above). It’s important to train your dog from puppyhood to avoid bad behaviors that might be harder to rectify in the future. Some people train with kibbles (to avoid calorie-overdose or diarrhea) but I hate the feeling of kibbles because it’s very sticky when their saliva touches the food.
My top recommendation for training treats. My criteria is on the texture, quality as well as the size.
I recently got to try this from this dog treat box which I bought from Perromart at $48 (which is a bad deal in my honest opinion) but I do like this because the dog treat is long and I think Ziwi Peak is not a bad brand (though comparably expensive and there are other alternatives out there).
But HMM, it is 5 calories per treat so ration accordingly since usually you will feed A LOT during training to enforce positive reinforcement.
Okay, I bought this because I got sucked into the packaging (SO NICE?!?!) and the price cause it’s very affordable. But we have stopped buying this because Oolong is picky now and doesn’t like this as much.
Again, get this from PLC stores since it’s the same price online and offline.
ENDING NOTE;
Don’t buy too much of the same food at the same time. Your dog will get bored. So don’t buy too much of the same food; try to interchange and keep things interesting because there’s a direct correlation between how tasty the food is vs. the attentiveness he is going to give you.
Not all treats will be suitable for your pup. We fed Oolong duck wings from Absolute Holistic and he had very bad diarrhea. Same with chicken feet and lobsters. So we cut those off from his treats’ stash. So observe as you go along and there will be trial and error.
So many things to buy, so little time to save money ?
Expect to spend $200 – $500 for the first month of your puppy’s arrival since there are going to be trial and error as well as purchasing big ticket items such as crate, bowls and accessories. We keep a separate bank account for the dogs so that we are able to track our spending expenditure with him, and we also try not to go too crazy.
It’s fun shopping for your dog because there are so many options out there! If not, you can also redeem free samples to try from pawjourr.com before you commit to the full-sized items.
Are you planning to get yourself a puppy in 2021? Perfect! Because you’ll need all the advice you can get before taking on such a responsibility. Much like any other purchase or product, getting a puppy isn’t just about plopping down some cash and taking it home. It takes research, preparation, and consideration.
#Puppyblues IS true. I know this sounds crazy but I cried the first weekend when I brought Oolong back from all the stress. My husband was very concerned about my mental health because I was looking visibly stress and couldn’t sleep well at all.
It’s been around a month since Oolong is with us – so let’s break it down week by week on what you should expect when you bring home that bundle of joy… or poop machine ?
Week 01: The calm before the storm
First night with us
The first night Oolong came to our house — to be fair to him, he didn’t give us as much issue as his siblings since he wasn’t too “homesick”. In a way, he is a pretty confident and independent kid who can be bounced around different homes and sleeps through the night.
Issues you might face with your puppyfor the first 1-2 weeks
Whining / crying through the entire night
Waking up every 2 hours to pee/poop
Sleeping on the floor with him/her
These are all actual anecdote we hear from other pet owners around us.
It is very important to note that puppies should stay with their mum until they are AT LEAST 8 WEEKS OLD. Oolong is approx. 3 months old before he left his litter.
I can’t emphasize this enough – this is SO SO SO SO IMPORTANT and I only realize it after getting Oolong! When a puppy is 5 – 8 weeks old, they get feedback from their siblings on bites/mouthing because the other pups will yelp when it’s too hard — this helps the puppy to understand when a bite is too painful and is not pleasant for the recipient.
DON’T WORRY – YOU ARE NOT ALONE!!
During Oolong’s first week, I was so overwhelmed that I cried. I stay with my parents and my mum can be very iffy about cleanliness around the house so it added on to the stress. Not helpful that I like to sleep in on weekends and with a dog around, that’s gone.
WEEK O2: The REAL shit starts
Literally. Oolong IS pee pad trained and for the first 2 weeks, there were no potty accidents at all (he sleeps with us in the room). Well guess what, he decided that it’s not going to be that case anymore! 😀
It might also be because he had his last jab and wasn’t feeling too good.
Waking up to the surprise Oolong prepared for us – thanks, son!
So yes, potty training is going to take a while. I was literally on my knees (PG13 please!) 80% of the time, cleaning up after him. I’ve read online to ignore and not to chide him but seriously, I’m not Guan Yin Ma okay. So the morning this happened, I was really livid and gave Oolong a good “beating” and by beating, I meant rolled up newspaper hitting the floor.
Another huge round of applause for Oolong, who’s poop aim is spectacular (RIP to @lokithetoast hooman’s wire)
General rule of thumb for potty training
2 months old puppy can hold their bladder for 2 hours
3 months old puppy can hold their bladder for 3 hours
It will be helpful to keep a poop journal (yes, motherhood indeed) to track his poop timing across a few weeks. Oolong is still very sporadic with his poop time but we know that he poops every morning when he wakes up, and after meals. So he poops 3 – 4x a day.
This WILL change. Milky poops twice a day and he is outdoor-trained.
WEEK 03: So you think you can leave me alone at home
SA. SA. SA. You are going to hear SA a lot. SA stands for separation anxiety, which is loosely defined as your dog screaming like he lost a limb when you leave him alone in the house.
We used Google hangouts so that different people could join the call and look at Oolong like a specimen. ? Okay lah, everyone is concerned about Oolong.
Pro Tip that works for us!
Start off with 5 – 10 – 15mins before increasing it to longer hours.
When you leave the house, give the doggo a treat (we like to give chews)
When you reach home, don’t be overly excited. Be normal and don’t get all excited and give him attention.
Oolong can be at home for a long period of time now (4 hours+). We don’t put the pee pads in his crate because we don’t want him to encourage him to pee in his crate. Now, he gets free access to the house since he is toilet-trained and will pee/poop in the toilet (without pee pads!!)
Most of the time, there are still peeps in the house so he is usually with peeps around. We bring him to the office for 2-3 days every week so that he gets to mingle with other people, dogs and socialize well.
Week 04: It WILL get better.
We brought Oolong home on 8 Dec, when he is exactly 3 months old (he is born on 9 Sep). It’s been a little more than a month now and yes, things are definitely getting better.
It feels like a long time that he has been with us — but he is toilet-trained now and growing up healthily. He still poops and pee at the wrong places, but he kinda gets an idea of what’s right and what’s wrong.
His mouthing is still an issue and we are correcting his food aggression (for high-value food) and learning to share and be nice with other doggos — be it his water bowl or toys.
Find someone who looks at you the way Oolong looks at his bowl.
He is extremely food-motivated so it’s easier to train him, but that also meant lots of trips to Pet Lovers Centre and spending tons of money on treats and toys to keep him busy.
He is also learning commands like SIT, DOWN, STAY, LEAVE IT & GENTLE (puppies are so excited when it comes to food!!).
He is learning how to behave during walks, how he gets treats when he poops and pees outdoor (or on pee pads), and will run to me to get his “reward”. The clever boy will actually “ration” his pee so that he gets more treats whuttttt.
#PUPPYBLUES ARE REAL
Yes, puppy blues are real. During the first few weeks, I was constantly bogged down by negativity and just wondering if things will ever get better.
I had thoughts of sending him back to his parents because I wasn’t sure if this is something I can handle. I felt so guilty for even having such thoughts that I just cried and felt like a useless mum. I felt that I’m useless because other peeps seem to be able to “do it” but I can’t seem to, and these are people who were working a 9-6 job or juggling a child and a pet and a job and their own mental health. HOW?
The irony is that I know it’s hard to take care of a dog, and I was mentally prepared. But the thing is — it REALLY wears you down over time. There are no off days, MCs, or short-cuts. It’s step-by-step and you don’t expect instant gratification.
There is also no “nursery” to send your kids to for a couple of hours (yes there are daycares, but there are so many horror stories when it comes to dogs dying or getting infected with ticks/flea and eventually died).
But yes, it is worth it. A dog will always love you more than he loves himself, and the feeling when he wags his tail to welcome us home :”)
Hic – Hic!
If you are thinking to get a puppy, these might be helpful:
Adopt or buy from a reputable breeder. When you buy from pet shops, you might unknowingly be supporting puppy mills. There are also other issues like:
Health problems from inbreeding or unhealthy parents.
Potty training is going to be an ass because they pee and shit in their cage.
Crate training will be an ass too because puppies in pet shops are constantly locked up.
You might face huge behavioral issues like mouthing/teething because of what I mentioned earlier — there was no chance for the puppy to get feedback on bites.
Why adoption might be better for you
Most of the time, you won’t face potty training issues because the dogs are grass-trained.
No puppy blues because most dogs should be in their adulthood already, meaning a much calmer demeanor.
It is important to note that PET SHOPS and REPUTABLE & ETHICAL BREEDERS shouldn’t be seen as the same thing. The latter takes pride in what they do and are very transparent & responsible with how they breed and who they sell.
With pet shops, many are in it for the $$ (despite the claims they put on how they love animals) and I see lots of health problems and issues because of the way the dogs were handled. It’s also extremely suspicious that when pet shop A has a Shiba Inu, pet shop B C D also has Shiba Inus for sale (much coincidence?)
End of day, a pet is a commitment for life. Make sure you are ready (financially and mentally) and yes — your family members are OKAY with the new family member. It is very tough for you to bring up a dog if your family members are NOT okay. It is also being respectful to the other family members living in the household because it really takes a village to raise a dog.
In our brand new series of #TWAShares, we had the pleasure of chatting with 3 different cat owners, who decided to adopt their cats.
Read on to learn about their lives post-adoption, and some of their tips and tricks for those that are eager to adopt cats too!
Q: Tell us a little about your cats!
@zingertails
Zingertails: We have 3 adopted kitties Remo, Cozmo and Gizmo, all about a year old now! Cozmo and Gizmo are actually siblings that we adopted from SPCA and Remo was adopted from a rescuer.
@emplifying
Emplifying: We have 2 chonky seniors, Gary and Newton. Gary was named after Spongebob’s pet snail because he went ‘mao’ instead of ‘meow’. He was found at Tampines void deck with his siblings while Netwon was picked up at Newton Circus on a rainy day.
@diam0ndkitties
Diam0ndkitties: We have 2 adorable brothers, Nori Jisub and Truffle Gohan. They were found near a drain at the carpark at NUS by my brother in Jan 2020. We brought them home when they were about 2.5 months old when we brought them home. Nori is super athletic while Truffle loves jumping, sleeping and bird-watching.
Q: What was your first day home with your cats like?
Diam0ndkitties: The first week we brought them home, I couldn’t sleep very well as I was worried about them being alone in the dark. So, we left a small light on until they got familiar with the surroundings.
Emplifying: Newton was only about 4 months old when we took him in. He was wet, scrawny, muddy and had some injuries to his hind legs’ toes. We brought him home in a shopping bag because we didn’t think we would be taking him in. We took care of him in secret, because our parents didn’t want a pet at home. We kept him in an unused toilet for a night but his loud meows were heard by my parents! Eventually, he won my mom’s heart because she felt that he’s her lucky cat!
We found Gary at a void deck with his siblings, he was the chonkiest and most mischievous because we found him climbing a palm tree! Eventually, all his siblings were adopted and we brought Gary back home. I guess Gary was my mom’s favourite as she commented in a dialect that “This cat is so sweet”.
Zingertails: It was a bit chaotic because I met Remo at my clinic workplace! He was rescued and brought in with exposed flesh due to bacteria growth. He had to be hospitalized at a very young age [1 month] and I ended up taking him home to care for him. I too brought him home without my dad knowing, as he didn’t like cats in general. When he saw Remo, he was very against the idea of nursing him.
The first night was chaotic as Remo was constantly having diarrhoea and due to his open wound, had to be cleaned up as soon as possible. I kept him in my dad’s unused fish tank for the first night, and tried to syringe feed him water to avoid dehydration. As he was our first cat, the house wasn’t ‘cat-ready’ and the next day, I dashed out to Pet Lover Centre in the morning to get all the kitten essentials.
Emplifying: My parents were like that at first too! But they grew to accept them.
Zingertails: But Remo is really smart! He knows how to smooth his way out into my parents heart and first began by working his way to my mom by gently meowing and being all manja with her. That’s where my mother fell in love.
Q: What were your must-have products for the kittens?
Diam0ndkitties: A litter box and litter! I’m quite particular about home cleanliness so I was initially paranoid about litter box training and accidents. But luckily, the kittens took very naturally to the litter box which was a huge relief to us. But not to say there weren’t a few accidents though! Afterwards, we were hastily looking at which kitten food to buy. There’s just too much info out there that we have to sieve through, both for kittens and adult cats.
Emplifying: Definitely kitty pan, kitty sand and cat food! We had Daiso bowls as food and water bowls. Not forgetting cat mesh!
Diam0ndkitties: Yes! Daiso does have a lot of good stuff for pets, but they are not very commonly found at some outlets. We have tried the cat wipes but they were a little too thin.
Emplifying: We also got dish washing gloves for Newton and thought that bathing him with gloves would be easier (didn’t know what we were thinking!) but Newton shredded the gloves so… no gloves after that!
Zingertails: For us, we prepared lots and lots of pee pads. At that time, we weren’t prepared to adopt Remo so we used pee pads as well as a small little tray as a litter box! We also bought KMR milk, kitten mousse/kibbles and Nutripet vitamin supplements.
Q: Biggest challenge when trying to let your kitten get used to being domesticated?
Emplifying: It would be the late-night meowing, because we were so afraid that the neighbours will complain since cats are generally not allowed to be kept in HDBs.
Other than that, there would be occasional furniture/wire damage by kittens but glad to say that there wasn’t any mass destruction! Unlike dogs, I feel like cat’s may not be domesticated easily. Based on my experience, instead of trying to train them to NOT do a certain action, the only way we felt worked for us is to not encourage the behaviour. Instead, we keep things/furnitures away that could encourage the behaviour and exhaust the kitten’s energy with playtime!
Zingertails: Agreed! We really had a hard time trying to exhaust the kittens.
Diam0ndkitties: Yes, the biggest challenge for us when they were younger was to not let them scratch furniture or bite into wires, which they usually will do at night or when no one is around. We provided lots of scratching posts, and also tried the cat anti-scratch spray which unfortunately did not work. Exhausting them was not easy, they were just way too active. Sometimes even I got tired!
Zingertails: When the kittens start to get bored, especially Remo when he was the ‘single child’, he would start developing behaviour such as pouncing on the humans or even biting. It took us a while to correct this kind of behaviour. We do bring Remo out for walks but it’s not on a frequent basis. I have heard some cats ended up craving the ‘outside world’ a lot and will start to be destructive when kept indoors.
Emplifying: We bought a leash too, but they just flop and surrender on the floor, they did not even walk! Had to carry them all the way. I have also heard about cats not wanting to be kept in after being exposed to the ‘outside world’.
Q: Give a piece of advice to hoomans looking to adopt cats!
Diam0ndkitties: Wow, that’s going to have a long answer! But in short, be really sure that you can commit to ANY pets. Commitment to care for a pet is important. There will be good days and also bad days. For stray cats, it also depends how old they are when adopted, the older ones need more patience to adapt to the indoor life.
Emplifying: Just be patient & committed! And enjoy the process of finding out their silly characters. I really miss those kitten days! There may be both heart-aching and heart-melting moments through their course of life, but none of which I regret.
Zingertails: Yup I agree! It is not just a one two year commitment, but can last up till 20 year! You have to be financially ready and ave up funds for them, be it regular food and toys or even medical fees.
THE WOOF AGENCY would like to thank @diam0ndkitties, @emplifying and @zingertails for taking the time off to share with us their real-life experiences on adopting stray cats.
If you enjoyed this piece, drop a comment below and let us know what other types of pet groups you’d like to learn more about!
You can read here for more information on what and why crate training is important
So commonly when we adopt an older dog, we will often wonder if it is still necessary to crate train?
Of course Puppy guardians will find the crate more useful for training purposes than the guardians of older dogs. Still, there are some reasons you should crate train an older dog, such as for preparation in the event of emergency.
So I personally feel that these are best reasons to crate train an older dog:
Security in an emergency situation
Safe transportation via car/plane
Easier veterinary visits and long-term care in case of illness or injury
Providing a comfortable and safe location in high-stress environments
Crate training a dog of any age can be tricky because “being trapped” in a “tiny box” is scary! However, many dogs that are properly introduced to a crate may truly enjoy their relaxing time inside. Of course the ideal crate size has to be big enough for them to stand up and turn around without restriction.
Who’s the mastermind here?
Kobe is crate trained, but not on command. Kobe is peepad trained, so he gets to do this number 1 and 2 on the shower area where the peepad is placed. And the rest of the space is where his water bowl is, and toys to keep him busy.
My foster puppy in his new adopter house
I know one high-energy SS puppy that’s being crated (His crate is the common toilet) for a few hours at a time while his mom is at work, chooses to hang out in his crate frequently in the evenings, weekends and overnight. Hence, it’s important to crate train properly. Because crates don’t come with instruction manuals, they can easily be unintentionally misused, causing your dog severe distress.
So like I mention, crate training doesn’t come with instructions, so it can easily be unintentionally misused. So I will highlight again.
Of course if you choose to crate train your dog like me in the common toilet, please make sure there’s no toilet paper to shred. HAHA
Introduce it Casually
The worst way you can introduce your puppy to the idea of a crate is to bring it home and lock him inside it immediately. People don’t like being trapped against their will, and neither do dogs. Instead, you should initially treat the crate like it’s just another piece of furniture — but one that he can enjoy. To this end, place it in a part of the house that he frequents, add a blanket and a toy or two, and keep the door open. Then back off and give him a chance to explore it. Some dogs will immediately start sniffing around and going into the crate, which is a great sign. If your puppy isn’t quite so bold, encourage him to check it out by placing favorite foods and toys near and inside the crate. The ultimate goal is to get him comfortable with going inside, and this is something that could take days. Be patient with the process.
After he’s willing to enter the crate, your next goal is to get him comfortable with staying inside for extended lengths of time. One of the best ways to do this (and create a positive association with the crate) is to start putting his food in the crate. If possible, you want to place the food at the back of the crate so that your dog goes all the way in. Some dogs may not be willing to do this, though, so you can start with the food just inside the crate and slowly move it back with successive meals. As soon as your dog is eating his meals while standing all the way inside the crate, it’s time to close the door. After he’s done eating that first time, open the door immediately. You’ll leave him in longer and longer with each meal, adding just a few minutes every time.
It’s possible that your dog may whine. If this happens, open the crate immediately and don’t leave him in as long next time. However, if he whines again, wait until he stops before letting him out or you will teach him that whining equals open door.
Once your dog is hanging out in her closed crate without signs of stress, it’s time to lengthen her stay. Use a favorite toy or treat to encourage her to enter the crate, then close it. Hang out by the crate for several minutes, then go into a different room for a few minutes so she gets used to the idea of staying in the crate alone. When you return, don’t open the crate immediately. Instead, sit with her again for a few more minutes and then open the door. Keep increasing the time as you do this until your dog is able to stay in the locked crate for half an hour without your presence. When she’s able to do this, she’s ready for you to leave her for short periods and possibly even sleep in the closed crate overnight. The key here is to make crating seem completely normal and avoid excitement. Encourage him to get into the crate and praise him when he does so, but keep it brief. When you come home, stay low-key and ignore any excited behavior that he shows.
Rules for successful crate training
Never leave a dog inside a crate for longer than five hours at a time (with the exception of overnight).
Make sure the crate is large enough for your dog to comfortably stand up, lie down and turn around in. The more space the dog has inside the crate to get comfortable, the better.
If you have a very young or very tiny puppy whose bladder is underdeveloped, never leave them inside a crate for longer than they can hold their urine. (Unless you planning to peepad train him)
The same goes for a senior dog with a weak bladder that needs to urinate frequently.
And also make sure your floor mat is beyond reach. LOL
These training tips can help your dog love the crate
Never force your dog inside the crate or close them in it for longer than they’re ready for. They must choose to go in on their own.
Help your dog to choose to go into the crate by throwing a treat, leaving a bully stick or pig’s ear or placing a puzzle toy filled with high-value treats (i.e., peanut butter, hot dogs, chicken) inside.
Gradually increase the period of time your dog spends in the crate. Begin by luring them in, closing the door for a couple of seconds, then letting them back out. Repeat this several times, then increase the interval by a few seconds. Repeat, slowly increasing the time they spend inside with the door closed.
Place soft bedding inside the crate and provide access to water.
Remember to NEVER leave your dog inside the crate with the door closed for longer than five hours at a time. The one exception to the rule is crating overnight, which is okay as long as your dog is a good nighttime sleeper.
If your dog is having trouble adjusting to the crate and begins to howl, dig, or bite at the bars, put a sheet over to minimise visual stimulation.
All the information I shared is base on my knowledge and my research on how and what’s the best for crate training. Of course certain things I said you might not agree to what I say, or maybe it doesn’t work on your dog. If you have other ways or a better way of crate training, please leave on the comment below so we all dog owners/lovers can learn something too!
Most of the time when people look at Belle, they assume she’s about one or two years old. And that’s very understandable because she’s pretty white considering that she’s a Golden Retriever. Usually, you can tell a Goldie is getting older when the fur on their face is a lighter shade than their coat.
So when I tell people that Belle is 11 years old, they get very shocked and they usually say something like “wow she looks great for her age!”
Of course, when you take a closer look, you can tell that Belle’s getting behind her years because her legs aren’t as steady as before and she gets out of breath after long walks or even after a trip to the park.
Diet
As Belle got older, one of the biggest changes would be her diet. The food (dry and wet) she eats now is catered towards senior dogs and the vet has advised me to not give her as many treats as before. Which is a good thing because it’s extremely important for senior dogs to not be overweight otherwise it’ll be a big strain on their bones and limbs.
Apart from her food, I also give her her daily dose of Glucosamine soft chews. It definitely helps her limbs because she still enjoys walking (sometimes running) up and down the stairs in my house.
Exercise
When it comes to bringing Belle out, I guess the important thing to take note of is when she lags behind me because she’s always on my left. I usually take that as a sign that she’s had enough exercise for the day. Sometimes I bring Belle out to the pool as well because swimming is definitely less taxing on Belle’s limbs as compared to walking. It’s a great form of exercise for her too because she usually sleeps like a log the minute we get back home.
Of course, when Belle gets too tired to walk anymore, she immediately lies down on the ground and only moves after a lot of encouragement. That’s when I step in and carry 23kg of fur, bones and flesh.
Grooming
Grooming-wise, not much has changed to be honest. Every 6 to 7 weeks, I send Belle to the groomer’s where she gets her fur and nails trimmed and she comes back smelling like flowers. It’s also important to do daily maintenance as well. For example, cleaning her ears every night after a walk will help to prevent ear infections.
On top of everything mentioned above, I think the most important thing is to still shower a lot of love to your dogs. Everyday I still smother Belle with loads of hugs, kisses and baby talk. Everyday she would get up (even if she’s sleeping) when she hears me call her name and walk towards me to greet me. When I first got Belle back in 2010 when I was only 14, I never thought too far in the future about her as an older dog; all I wanted was to have fun with her everyday. Now that I’m older and more aware, I know that one day I’ll have to say goodbye to her. But in the meantime, I’m still going to spoil her rotten because to me, she’s still my best friend and the number 1 Goldie in the world.
