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Every Pawrent’s Worst Nightmare

My husband and I were at a church conference last January 2020, and just coming out of  a church conference, you would never think a tragedy would take place.

But that’s exactly what happened.

A few hours after the conference ended, at around 2am, I received a call from Singapore that my dog, Chandler, who is a small 2 1/2-year-old Maltipoo, was bitten by a 25kg large dog and was in critical condition.

Now, for you to fully comprehend how dreadful it was for me to hear this, you need to understand how much Chandler means to me. He’s pretty much like a son to me.

I was just refreshed and renewed getting out of conference and this happened. My natural reflex reaction was that my world came crashing down.

At that moment, my husband had to snap be back to my senses as my emotions were taking over me. It took a while to do so and to even get myself to speak out and not come into agreement with the current situation.

I vaguely remember the exact words I said, but I remember declaring victory over the situation and that this will be a miraculous testimony. Saying these words were not the easiest considering circumstances were against us in the natural, but I held on to what Jesus said when the centurion approached Him. Let it be done as you believed it would. 

I believed the healing has already taken place.

I believed his health and body will be restored brand new.

I believed we are fighting from victory grounds against this attack by the enemy.

I believed the enemy intended to harm me, but God will use it for the good.

I believed this will be an amazing testimony to His goodness.

I believed many will witness this healing miracle and that many will believe.

DAY 0: CHANDLER IN CRITICAL CONDITION | SURGERY DAY 

My husband and I immediately packed and made our way to the airport to fly back to Singapore as soon as we could.

While in transit, I was sending voice messages and prayers of healing for them to play for Chandler.

When I finally saw him, I broke down seeing how he was. We were told he has multiple bites, is losing blood, has 3 broken ribs, muscles torn and lost, a broken shoulder, damaged eye, fractured spine, and possibly punctured lungs.

They would only be able to see the extent of the internal injuries when they open him up and undergo surgery to do repairs.

At that point, I felt I was faced with an impossible situation and had to make conscious efforts from time to time to not fear and to just remind myself that Jesus has already won the victory for me. I was stirring my faith, but in the natural, the head surgeon, Dr. Nick of Advanced Vetcare, was managing our expectations by telling us that though other patients made it through surgery, they didn’t make it through recovery.  Most usually don’t make it through the first 24 hours, he said. Hence, he would be more at peace when he sees Chandler make it through 2-3 days after surgery.

In my head, I was declaring God will come through.

“You will see,” I told him.

Chandler before surgery

They performed the surgery and it was successful. All we could do is pray and see how he would recover.


DAY 1: INTENSIVE CARE UNIT

We couldn’t stay long when we visit him ’cause he had to stay inside the cage and can’t be moved, but for the brief time we would see him, we could see he was pleased to see us.

He had a catheter, tubes sticking out of him to drain out the fluids inside, a warmer to regulate his temperature, and an oxygen support to help him breathe. He didn’t have the appetite to eat on his own so they had to syringe feed him. The good news is he wasn’t rejecting the food and was swallowing it.

It pained me to see him so broken, but I was grateful with every good news the doctors and nurses told me.

Making it through the first 24 hours was a blessing in itself.


DAY 2: MAKING PROGRESS

His vitals are all normal and they told us he didn’t need a warmer and the oxygen support anymore. He was also way more energetic than the day before.

He was starting to lift his head up on his own and we were told he would even attempt to bite the doctors and nurses when they would take his vitals and dress his wounds. Now, this is usually a bad habit for a dog, but with the situation he is in, this was a really good sign.


DAY 3: OUT OF THE WOODS!

It was the first time they allowed him to be out of the cage and to be brought out into the visiting rooms. This was a really promising sign.

And it really was good because on day 3, Chandler was declared out of the woods! He is no longer in danger and no longer in a life-threatening situation. The head surgeon said he beat the odds and is such an amazing and strong little fighter.

He’s able to voluntarily eat for the first time too! This is essential because with more food intake, his protein level will normalise and will help him recover faster.


DAY 4: TUBE-FREE

The tubes on his chest were taken out already and X-ray showed no leakage of fluids! He was also way more energetic and is starting to bark and be hyper.

He’s able to eat more when we feed him and he’s now able to sit up and stand up with support too!

DAY 5: MORE MOVEMENTS!

We were told his spine might have been affected, hence his hind legs still being so weak. This was the day we first saw massive improvement with the movement of his legs.

Showing good recovery signs

DAY 6: BACK ON HIS FEET!

All test results are normal, he is also now able to stand on his own.

Getting stronger

DAYS 7-9: WARP-SPEED RECOVERY

The doctors are so pleased with his progress every single day.

His catheter was removed, his appetite was getting better, and his energy was going back to normal.

Not too happy to have a selfie
Eating on his own

DAY 10: HOME SWEET HOME

Since he was brought to the hospital, I would visit him every single day and just spend time with him. Though he wasn’t exactly his normal self, I knew me being there contributed a lot to his recovery. More importantly, I was able to lay hands on him and pray for him.

On the 10th day, his doctor finally declared he’s fit to go home. Given the severity of his injuries and condition, being discharged on the 10th day was beating the odds.

One thing to watch out for though was since the CT scan detected a slight fracture on his spine, we needed to monitor movement on his two hind legs. He was well enough to continue recovering at home without doctors attending to him 24/7, but he still couldn’t stand up on his own, so I was told he needed to do home physiotherapy.

Excited to go home!

He was also asked to come back to do physiotherapy every 2 days and acupuncture every week to help him recover.

When we got home, he immediately lit up. He was as happy and relieved as I was.


#CHANDLERSROADTORECOVERY

To be honest, seeing him at home was seeing the impossible happen right before my eyes, and it wouldn’t have happened if it weren’t for God’s promise coming to pass.

New living room set up with pillows and yoga mats so he wouldn’t slip

He had to have the strength to sit and stand up on his own.

He had to relearn how to walk.

And I needed to be there guiding and assisting him in peeing, pooping, and making sure he won’t injure himself.

The whole process was made even less painful with everyone’s love and support!

You can see how happy he is with all these!

His physiotherapy sessions were helping him get better sooner.

And I could see the progress every single day, not just with how well he could balance and walk, but also with his strength and energy. He seems happier!


BACK TO SCHOOL

Just 1 month after his major surgery, he was already able to go back to school. His playtime with other doggos had to be strictly supervised since his ribs are still healing and his hind legs are still not 100% recovered. Nonetheless, him being there motivated him all the more to practice his walk. And again, he’s so happy!

Not long after that, all his wounds and stitches are fully healed and his walk is almost back to normal!


CHANDLER’S BIRTHDAY / RECOVERY PARTY

Experiencing this breakthrough is definitely something to celebrate. It’s also timely that it’s his 3rd birthday!

He celebrated at his school Doggie Retreat with his furiends who dressed up for the occasion.

He was so happy and even brought home a bunch of presents!

It was the best way to celebrate, indeed. I couldn’t thank everyone enough who contributed to make this happen.


GOD CAME THROUGH

Chandler’s accident was one of the most painful journey I’ve had to go through, but God never fell short of reassuring me every single day that He’s right beside me through it all. Because of that, He gave me clarity of the good things that came out of this.

So many people prayed and held on to God.

They witnessed an amazing miracle.

MANY BELIEVED IN HIM.

As painful as it was, because of all of those, I’m actually thankful it happened. It was an honor to be able to be a part of a testimony to God’s glory and goodness!

Yet again, it just goes to show, no matter how big and impossible the situation is, God is and will always be bigger. 


CHANDLER TODAY

Fast forward today, Chandler is all better and back to normal!

It was a tough experience and I wouldn’t wish it to happen to any pawrent out there, but I’m just happy to see Chandler back to his rascal, happy, playful self and I couldn’t be more relieved.

I would like to take this opportunity to specially thank the following:

  • My husband for standing by me through this.
  • Dr. Nick and the whole team of Advanced VetCare for a successful surgery and for making sure Chandler got the best treatment.
  • Doggie Retreat team (Esther, James, Kio, Lyn, Grace, Clifford, Ames, Jaren, Jeffrey, Joshua, Nicholas, Shan, and Yasmine) for the prayers, the love, the care, and the support from day 1 to date. 
  • And of course, JESUS for winning the battle for us. 

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Poop, blood and lots of heartache: Our experience with gastroenteritis

Warning: This post contains images of blood.

Being a first-time dog owner, I was relatively lucky that Coffee had no major health issues for the first few years of her life. I always knew she had a weak stomach and had her fair share of vet visits, but nothing prepared me (and my wallet) for the multiple bouts of gastroenteritis that happened last year in 2019. I’m sharing my personal experience in hopes that you can avoid some of the mistakes that I made.

How it began

The first time it happened was on 27 Feb 2019, and it started with some diarrhoea earlier in the day. I did not think much about it at first because she occasionally had loose stools that resolved on their own. However, I knew something was wrong when she started vomiting and there was even blood in the diarrhoea. By the time I realised it was an emergency, her usual vet clinic was already closed. In my panic, I searched for vets nearby and found one that was open until 11pm. We rushed her there and disappointingly, the vet barely examined her (red flag!!), explained some possibilities and sent us off with metronidazole. Our bill easily came up to over $250 that night, which leads me to my point number 1:

1. Please research and have a list of vets for different situations! Your usual vet may not always be open when you need them, so be prepared with a list of good vet clinics you can go to for emergencies late at night/on public holidays etc. If I had a choice, I would not have gone to that vet that day.

We were then told to give her a bland diet and would likely still see blood in her diarrhoea for the next few days. She was still lively and had her good appetite then.

Coffee happily waiting for her steamed fish and pumpkin.

With the antibiotics she was taking, we thought she would get better but it took a turn for the worse. She continued to vomit and diarrhoea day and night and by 1 Mar, she had stopped wanting to eat or drink anything. I was working full time then, and the lack of sleep and stress was really building up. Luckily, I managed to squeeze in an appointment with her usual vet and I’m glad we went back to her usual vet for a second opinion.

2. Trust your gut instincts and if you feel like something is not right, you should see the vet immediately.

They examined her thoroughly (the vet even stuck her finger up Coffee’s butt to feel for any abnormalities), gave her injections and more medicine. Surprisingly, the total bill was only about $159 despite having more medicine. She eventually recovered and we thought that was the last of it.

The second and worst

In hindsight, we should have learnt from that experience and tried to be more prepared. We only learnt our lesson when disaster struck on a public holiday – 19 April 2019. Most vet clinics we knew of were closed, so we had to go to one of the few that were open and it was really far away. As usual, they gave her some injections as well as metronidazole and other anti-diarrhoea medicine. The vet had also suggested that we can hospitalise her so that they can keep an eye on her condition. Thinking that it was similar to the previous episode, I assumed she would recover and so I declined and brought her home. It was another bad decision because when she got home, the frequency of vomiting increased and there was even more blood.

It looked like a murder scene. Her diarrhoea was so bad she could not control herself and did it in the house multiple times.

I was so heartbroken seeing her in so much pain that I knew I had to bring her back despite the cost. She was later hospitalized that night, put on the IV drip to ensure she was hydrated. By the time I got home, it was almost 1am and I hardly slept that night because I was so worried. It was a relief to find out the next day that she was recovering and was ready to be discharged.

Coffee was feeling much better but very drowsy.

Her blood test results showed nothing out of the ordinary and they ruled out pancreatitis as well so they suspected it was food sensitivity or gastroenteritis. The total bill burned a big hole in my wallet as it eventually came up to around $1500 and this leads me to point 3:

3. Always have an emergency fund for your pets. You’ll never know when you will need it and emergency vet bills can really add up. You may also consider pet insurance.

The third and fourth time

To cut the story short, it happened again 2 more times in Oct and Nov 2019. It always started with the same symptoms and progressed to something serious and we had to rush to yet another clinic recommended by her usual vet for emergencies. We did a lot of blood tests, x-ray and even tested her stool samples, which is important for pets having diarrhoea.

4. Whenever possible, save a fresh stool sample (best to be within 1 hour) so the clinic can test for certain bacteria/parasites.

A learning experience

Unfortunately, all the tests came back negative and we never really knew the cause of all this. It is frustrating because it feels like we are up against an invisible enemy. However, at least I can take comfort in the fact that I am a little more prepared the next time it strikes. This whole episode was traumatic for my family and Coffee but we have emerged much stronger through this. Do comment and share your experiences too so that it may one day help anyone going through the same thing (although I pray you never have to!).

With love,

Coffee’s mama

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Community Stories

How To Deal With Aggression In Cats

Aggression, a feeling of anger which may result in hostile or violent behavior. We are no strangers to this, we’ve all felt it before. Normally, we minimize hostile behavior with communication and persuasion, but what should we do if we can’t? This is our story, on how we’ve learnt to stop violent outbursts and understand where the attention was lacking.

Lyra

I adopted Lyra when he was about 3 months old, he was extremely hostile to us, hissing and on guard 24/7, watching us. After about 2 months, he was accustomed to his new human owners but still wary, and would attack me by lunging forward, aiming for my neck, if he was upset at something I did. As he is a Bengal, I understood that he is more instinctive and that may be the reason why he would aim for the neck. Additionally, Lyra is also a very needy cat, he would get upset and start biting me before I left for school, this biting worsened when I started working shifts as I was leaving at odd hours. As such, he could not track me and worries that I will not return. I spent hours researching on ways to stop these ill behaviors, and failed countless of times. After 1 year, this is the method that works best for him.

Healed Scar on My Cheek

All cats have a cycle of “Hunt, Eat, Groom, Sleep” (Galaxy, N.D.). This cycle needs to be met for a cat to be well- adjusted. Some young cats are playful and crave stimulation. When it is not play time, you may be the only thing it sees moving and be mistaken as a play thing which sparks their excitement.

Hunt

To stop a cat from viewing you as a prey, you will have to redirect it’s attention. Start by having a toy on hand with you, as a standby if you are being hunted. Once your cat targets you, wave the toy in front of it’s face, say ‘bite this instead’ and give it the toy, slowly but surely it will understand to target the toy rather than you. It may be tedious but trust me it will pay off.

Lyra Chowing Down on a Fake Apple Toy

Eat

After hunting, cats will prepare to kill and eat their prey in the wild, but for domesticated cats, they do not get the satisfaction of that. So, after each playtime, it is best to give them a reward to help them achieve satisfaction. Lyra’s go-to would be 1 liquid stick treat. I would recommend either 1 liquid stick treat or a few dry/ jerky treats, about 5-6 pieces.

Eating His Favorite Treat

Groom

After the cat is contented and satiated, it will move on to the grooming phase. In this phase, the cat proceeds to clean itself, just like a shower before bed time. You can help the cat, by brushing it to further aid with relaxation. For Lyra, he prefers for me not to disturb him.

Sleep

The cat may choose to take a short nap, fall asleep completely for the night or even just laze awake. This is when the cat develops safety and security. Waking up from a uninterrupted nap is the best feeling in the world, it helps them feel safe knowing they will be unharmed.

Non-Defensive Sleeping Position

This cycle will repeat itself forever. The most important part would be the conditioning of the hunt and the reward. A huge part of this, is you, the owner. Loving and providing attention to your pet is just the first step. Look out for non-verbal cues to further aid your bond with your pet. Hopefully, this will help you understand more about what your pet wants and needs from you to prevent ill behaviors. Feel free to ask me questions if you have any!

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How A One-Year Old Got Diagnosed With Grade 3 Patellar Luxation

Katsu has always been the lively kid in the neighborhood. He enjoys zoomies every night and after showers. Not forgetting the daily routine of jumping on hoomans at home and playing fetch every other hour to burn off his excess energy. However, reality struck us one month after his first birthday.

A month before his first birthday, we brought him to our usual vet to check on his food allergy issues, and our usual vet, Dr Jan, suspected that he has Grade 2 Patellar Luxation on both his hind legs. She mentioned to introduce him supplements to strengthen his joints and bring him to swimming regularly, which we began incorporating into his diet routine. We introduced him to swimming at Wag n Wild and also fed him Rose Hip Vital daily. Fast forward to a month after his birthday, he was bitten by a dog on his testicles so we went to the vet again. (Poor boy) This time, Dr Jan diagnosed him with Grade 2-3 on his left hind leg and mentioned his right hind leg has improved to a Grade 1.

However, despite efforts in bringing him to swimming regularly and discouraging him from jumping at home, our efforts were to no avail. He starting kicking his leg as if his ears were itchy, but his legs were not reaching his ears. Instead it was kicking in a circular motion as if he was trying to manually ‘shift’ back his dislocated joint and he constantly does that when he is walking or hopping on one leg.

We were so terrified and decided to visit Rehab Vet for a consultation. Reason why we chose Rehab vet is because of Hana’s (@hanathecloud) recommendation. She, too, suffers from patellar luxation and hip dysplasia hence is able to relate to our concerns.

How the visit went

We were greeted by really friendly staffs and vets! Judging from how gentle they were with Katsu and how he reacted towards them, I’m really grateful that we gave this place a visit as he is usually wary to strangers. We were assisted by Dr Janny and I dare say she is one of the most gentle vet I have ever encountered with.

First Assessment – We were told to leash him and they will record some videos and assess on how his hind legs look when he is walking slowly and running. For Katsu’s case, the Dr Janny mentioned that his legs were spread open with an abnormal distance between and he was tip-toeing instead of putting his whole feet on the ground.

Second Assessment – He was then placed on a stance analyzer to measure how much weight is being beared on each of his paws and legs. As a general guide, a dog with healthy limbs and joints should have 30% weight beared on their front legs and 20% weight on their hind legs.

Here are Katsu’s results as shown:

Incase you are thinking – I thought his left leg has Grade 3 and right leg has Grade 1? Why is the right leg not bearing weight despite it being stronger?

Answer: As his left leg has no strength, he is overcompensating by using his right leg more. This resulted in his right leg not being to withstand this extra amount of weight, which led to muscle loss eventually. If this continues, his right leg will be the first to lose all mobility and it will happen next to the left.

Third Assessment – He was told to lie down on the side and Dr Janny tried to measure the length and girth of his hind legs, as well as the flexibility. It was mentioned that Katsu’s legs were not able to bend as much as a normal puppy’s. The minimum degree is at least 160, and he is only able to bend it to 150. When she tried to straighten his hind legs, she could feel his muscle getting really tense and he is able to stretch his leg straight fully which should not be the case. After consolidating the results for all the assessments, Dr Janny laid out 2 options for us – Which is either going for a surgery for his hind legs, or either rehabilitation. We were against the idea of Katsu going under the knife as he is very young, and Dr Janny mentioned that a surgery only has 30-40% success rate. At that moment, our decision was final.

Final ResultsDr Jan was right. Dr Janny diagnosed Katsu with a Grade 3 Patellar Luxation on his left hind leg and Grade 1 on the right. We were told to touch his thigh and the muscle beside the patellar, and we could feel that the patellar’s muscle was exceptionally thin. What the patellar’s muscle does is that it helps to lock the joints together. If it is not well developed, the joints will shift as the muscle is not thick enough to ‘lock’ the joints in place as it should be. We were advised to engage in rehabilitation with activities such as Hydrotherapy, as well as land exercises to make sure he doesn’t lose his stamina. (Do take note that the activities or therapy will vary based on the age of your dog or severity of the issue!)

The five different stages of rehabilitation
Source: RehabVet

We will have to continue rehab before he turns 1.5 years old, as it is the time where their bones and muscles will fully develop. With that being said, we have since engaged in their services and will start the first session soon! We will do a follow up on this blog post again after his first 10 sessions.

Causes

Genetics – Dr Janny mentioned that his Patellar Luxation is passed down from his parents. We still remember asking the pet shop about the health of his parents before purchasing him, and they told us verbally they were healthy without showing any proof. This just shows how unethical they are.

Running/Jumping – When he was 3 to 8 months old, we would constantly play fetch at home with him. He would also get uncontrollably excited whenever someone comes home, which resulted in him jumping alot. As our floor is slippery, it might have worsen his patellar issues.

Symptoms

Weird sitting postures – Katsu sat like any other normal dogs when we first bought him. He only started sitting in a weird position whereby his hind legs were facing the side when he was 7 months old.

Kicking of hind legs – As mentioned previously, he is constantly kicking his hind legs towards the front as if he was trying to kick his joint back into place. Which looks somewhat like this but his legs were not reaching for his ears:

Dog Scratching Ears? Causes of Itchy Ears | PetSmart

Running – He bunny hops when he runs. If he sprints, both of his legs will barely touch the ground and dangle in midair, meaning that he uses both his front legs to support most of the weight when he is trying to pick up speed.

And… tada! We hope this article has provided you with some insights such as symptoms, causes and what to expect when you visit a rehabilitation centre! With that being said, please don’t shy away from any possible symptoms that your dog is showing, especially if they start limping. Visit a bone specialist and get their limbs checked, at least you will have a peace of mind. It is no doubt that rehabilitation and vet fees will cost a bomb. With me and my sister both being students, it is getting extremely tough on our finances. Nevertheless, we only want the best for Katsu, and we know you feel the same about your puppers too! 😀 Please feel free to DM us on Instagram if you guys have any doubts! Patellar Luxation is very common in dogs and it is NOT a problem to be treated lightly with.

Adios Amigos~ See you next time~

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What I wished I knew better before getting a puppy

So imagine this. You’re finally at that point in your life where you decide you’re ready to welcome a new member of the family- to raise a dog. You’ve done all your research, asked a couple friends and family for advice and finally decide to book that viewing appointment to see your doggo to-be.

And of course what better time than now right? With Covid-19 sticking around, 2020 is the perfect time to train and build that relationship without much FOMO (*the ‘Fear of Missing Out’)! You also start to rationalize and picture the next 10 years of your life, all while telling (well more like, convincing) yourself everyday that ‘You’re making the right choice! No regrets you got this! ? ‘

Now does this sound familiar?

If it does, then you’re probably a lot like me- optimistic, an over-thinker & someone who underestimates way too much. But hey, consider yourself blessed today because I’ll be sharing the things I wished I could have prepared myself better for while sharing a little more about my experiences as a first-time puppy owner!

The First Interaction

Here’s Calie (the one with the folded ears) chilling with her siblings, now formally known as Dole (in the pen) and Toufu (on top of Calie) at 3 months old!

When I met Calie, she was with her other little siblings playing around and was being this wholesome picture of ‘childlike innocence’ that I instantly fell in love with. Meeting the pups for the very first time almost had me in tears behind my face mask because I was basically achieving my childhood dreams of wanting a dog (yes, I was that child) and it was such a surreal moment for me. But you see, that’s the easy part. The idea of having a loyal companion by your side, giving you that unconditional love and acceptance to brighten up any bad day may seem like such a promising idea most of the time, but you have to realise that this should not be the sole deciding factor – which leads me to my first point:

1. Commitment: It’s the most important!

Now this personally, should be the very first thing you think about before getting that dog in the window! It is a known fact that dogs can live up to 10-15 years and they definitely require a lot of time invested, energy, money and commitment. There are many articles that will tell you that to the point where it literally becomes ‘textbook knowledge’, but you won’t realise how serious this becomes until you live the life yourself! But not to worry, if you’d like to know if you’re prepared for it, here are a few questions you can ask yourself:

  • Why do you want a dog to begin with?
  • Do you have time to train the puppy/dog?
  • Can you afford a dog right now?
  • Is your current home environment suitable for the particular breed you have in mind?
  • Are you ready to deal with the problems (aka ‘collateral damage’) that comes with raising a dog? – from chewing everything in its path to unforeseen health emergencies
  • …Did you do your research?

If you’ve managed to say ‘Yes’ to everything, then you’re pretty much set! On the other hand, if you went ‘Errr…Maybe?’ you might want to rethink the decision for now and wait things out, or adjust a few things in your life before making a choice.

Now as daunting as all this responsibility may seem, there is something so gratifying and rewarding about raising a puppy/dog and you can learn so much every single day from the experience alone- I know I have.

2. Be patient- Good things take time!

Raising puppies / Re-training dogs can be extremely hard! (and I’ve been to nursing school HA). The physical and mental exhaustion can be very demoralising as you help your new furriend to adjust to new environments and it doesn’t help whenever they make ‘potty accidents’, cry almost 24/7 from that separation anxiety, and treat your home like a natural disaster!

On the very first trip back to her furever home!
(aka. moments before disaster)

Yes, the ‘Puppy Blues’ are no joke and it began from the minute we brought Calie home – if you must know, she immediately marked the floors and had the worst cases of urinary incontinence (aka. a leaky bladder) for 2 weeks straight and although this was normal for puppies, I was loosing my sanity by the minute and would have uncontrolled bursts of frustrations where I would lash out or even breakdown at the most random timings. In fact, if you’d like to know more about these ‘Puppy Blues’, hop right over to @hoshi_sheltie ‘s blog after this and read their post as they talk about the real struggles and exploring ways to overcome them!

But just like how a baby needs time to learn manners, you have to understand that dogs are naturally pack animals and have instincts on their own. The more time and training you invest with your pup, the better you can curb negative behavior and build a great relationship! As a person who’s always occupied with tight schedules, it was not easy to suddenly make adjustments to a lifestyle I’ve grown accustomed to for years just so I had enough time to train Calie and help make her adapt well with the family and it was a challenge to be constantly multi-tasking. I also strongly believe in positive reinforcement when training Calie and as a result she’s able to understand and pick up on instructions a lot more efficiently as opposed to negative reactions like yelling/hitting her (which I never do), and I’m proud of how strong our relationship is every single day, because I know all my time sacrificed is not in vain.

On the other hand, I do understand that there are people who may not be able to have the luxury of time and patience but would still like to try caring for a dog. A good suggestion would be to discuss with your families/loved ones and talk about how the responsibilities can be shared or alternatives like sending the dog to ‘puppy school’ or having a private trainer.

“Patience is not the ability to wait, but the ability to keep a good attitude while waiting.”

JOYCE MEYER

3. Unpopular Belief: Money Trees should really grow actual money for a change!

Now THIS is a real problem for not just myself, but in many pet owners out there especially in this time. The cost of living can be stressful for us hoomans, let alone for a dog & you would not imagine how much it takes to ensure your pup is in its best health and living in an optimal environment constantly. Of course, it would be a dream if I could give my pup the whole world (and possibly even more) if it meant making them the happiest doggos out there!

A visit to the vet for her last puppy vaccination

Before making a decision to bring Calie home, my family & I had to layout the possible costs for the next couple years and honestly it wasn’t such an easy pill to swallow. Besides the initial cost it took to get Calie, some examples of things I would typically get worried about is being able to provide food every month, to the many vet consultations as a result of unforeseen health scares , transportation costs (we don’t have a car to get around) and other miscellaneous items (eg. walking necessities, trivial accessories, etc.) – and that’s just to name a few! As a first-time owner I had my first rude awakening when I saw the bill for Calie’s vet consultation & I really thought my soul was ready to depart my body right there in front of the counter. However thankfully, we’re slowly learning to anticipate better in time to be more prepared for ‘financial emergencies’ & that’s something I hope to be much better at very soon.

Now I’ve heard of different ways to combat financial issues from many people and for new pawrents to-be, I’ve narrowed down a couple tips to consider:

  1. As much as possible please ADOPT, don’t shop! – there are so many fur babies who are still looking for homes to call their own, please think of them first.
  2. Consider applying for Pet Insurance (covering medical emergencies)- you never know when you’ll need to visit a vet and how often you go!
  3. Support Local businesses in the pet community! – There are so many brands out there run by pawrents themselves that cater from food, accessories and toys! (personally I have a list of brands for my reference)
  4. Make friends who can getchu lobang yall! – I’m talking brand ambassador discounts, special offers, and even the many pet giveaways on social media (eg. Instagram, Facebook), which is great news for shopaholics such as myself whoops ?

So resist that temptation to overspend and just leave it in the cart first, trust me. (yes I’m looking you, my fellow bo lui gang)

But do note that you should only spend within your means, because “Money will buy you a fine dog, but only love can make it wag its tail” – Richard Friedman!

Calie sending all the positive vibes your way!

Anyways, those are my top 3 points to consider before thinking of making room for a new fur member of the family. So far, raising Calie has had its ups and downs, but I really do cherish every single moment I have with her always. If there’s anything I regret, it would be me wishing there was more things I could have been prepared for but everyday is a learning process for the both of us and sometimes there are just some things you need to learn along the way!

I can’t wait to see where life takes us in the next couple of years, and I’ll always do my best to ensure she lives a life that’s well-fulfilled and full of love. To all the new pawrents to be, both Calie and I wish you all the best in this new chapter of your life and to have fun with the process, you deserve this! ?

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Community Stories

How to Stop Your Cat From Chewing Electrical Wires

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFY_nDSJ1sf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

So I am here to highlight how to prevent your cat from biting wires, because its very dangerous.

When cats chew on wires, plastic bags or other foreign objects. These behaviour may be caused by an obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD); or health-related / environmental factors. EG: Dental issue, a way for the cat to relieve stress; etc. No matter what is the reason behind it, it is extremely dangerous for cats to chew on electrical cords, it could cause short circuit to your house; damage your appliances, or worst electrocuted. 

Fortunately, there are a few ways you can address this kind of behaviour.

Reasons for Chewing

It might be a mystery why cats choose electrical wires to chew on. The reasons for cord chewing may include:

Stress

Stress can prompt a wide range of odd behaviors. In these cases, the chewing serves to relieve anxiety and simply makes the cat feel better emotionally.

Boredom

When a cat isn’t having enough stimulation or exercise, it will cause boredom and that will result stress may cause it to seek other outlets.

Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder

Obsessive-compulsive disorders (OCD) usually involves chewing and gnawing behaviour.

Although cord chewing may be the primary OCD behaviour you observe in your cat, you may spot other symptoms as well. There doesn’t seem to be an explanation for why some cats develop a particular combination of OCD symptoms.

  • Overgrooming, characterised by a cat licking and chewing its fur so vigorously that it starts to fall out in spots, is also common.
  • Obsessively sucking, licking or chewing on fabric.

Dental

Cats that have pain in their mouths caused by dental problems may indulge in gnawing behaviour in an attempt to relieve the discomfort. So it’s important to visit a veterinary for dental care. EG: Checkups and cleanings.

Pica

A nutritional deficiency called pica is associated with eating odd materials. When a nutrient is missing from its diet, a cat will seek to replace it, but may choose inappropriate items to ingest. Some cats that suddenly begin targeting inedible objects.

How to Stop Chewing

Take your cat to the veterinarian for a checkup if it displays inappropriate chewing behaviour so that any underlying health problems can be discovered and addressed. In the meantime, take steps to keep your cat safe.

  • Cover electrical cords by running them through wire protector. You can also make them less appetizing by using bitter spray.
  • Offer the cat alternatives to chew, such as cardboard. 
  • Reduce anxiety to help eliminate the need for chewing. Consider trying a synthetic kitty pheromone (Feliway) to relieve stress and soothe your cat. Otherwise, make sure your cat’s litter box is spotless and that it has enough toys and playtime with you to stave off boredom.

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Community Stories

Tips on Rehabilitating & Training a Fearful Dog

*disclaimer: we are not trainers! we are just sharing our experience on what we did with her and how it helped her 🙂

We have been very happy to receive questions from new adopters and fellow owners who are having a hard time with their skittish and fearful dog. Since we have already been sharing so much on instagram, might as well document it down! I have still yet to meet/hear from any owner who has a fearful dog to the extent of Mayo so I’m not sure how much these tips will help because most dogs are better off hahaha which is a good thing ok!

To give some context, Mayo came to us in Feb 2020 and would absolutely not walk on leash. She was dragged around by the shelter and completely shut down every time it was time for her walks. For the first month or so, we had to leave the house completely and watch her on our doggy cam so that she would eat and drink. She didn’t leave her bed/spot AT ALL for an entire month before we worked with her on that. We couldn’t touch her or be near her if not she would start shaking and running away. When we were out on walks she would be so nervous and anxious she would pull us just so that she can get home quicker and end the walk. Upon seeing triggers like runners, kids, bicycles and etc, she would panic and buckle (we lost her once cos of that). After 7 months she still has yet to warm up to us so we really like to go to the basics and work with building trust. It’s not like she wags a tail when she sees us hahaha. That being said she’s still a work-in-progress and hasnt fully warmed but anyhoo! lets go into some tips we felt really helped her with some of her issues and helped us with relationship building.

  1. Hand-Feeding
    we did tons of research on how to best bond with newly rescued dogs and hand-feeding always came up. The guiding principle for us is ‘Good things come from my hand’. You could expect that Mayo was initially not quite comfortable with approaching us to eat from our hand but we didn’t relent. If she was too scared to eat (actually I don’t remember if she was ever), we will try again at the next meal. As long as she ate 1 bite from my hand, we would put the food bowl down next to us and let her eat. Of course, it helped to feed her food of very high value to start the process. When she first came, we prepared fresh salmon, beef, and all sorts of meat and had her take it out of our hand for a few minutes a day.

    When Mayo lived as a stray, her pack of dogs wouldn’t really let her eat. She had to be fed separately by her kind feeder. Another reason why hand feeding is great for fearful dogs is that I think it gives them some sort of security knowing that no one will be able to snatch their food bowl away or attack their bowl. Actually now, she loves being hand-fed hahaha. In stressful places with other dogs around, she will only eat from my hand because I figure she knows she can trust my hand.
  2. No Hiding
    On Mayo’s first day home, we set up some playpens in the kitchen for her to chill out in. We thought it would be too stressful for her to be close to us so we left her alone in the kitchen to hide. What happened subsequently was every time we went into the kitchen, she would jolt and start shivering. After 2 weeks of that and receiving some advice, we shifted her out to her current spot in the living room, far enough from us to not be triggered but at a place that she could at least observe us, hear our voice, watch our movements and slowly come to understand us as a different species.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8A2WfcFPSG/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link


But why? Why not give her her own space and let her hide for as long as she wanted? Why not give her time? You see, it is a little like humans being trapped in our heads or having a fear of heights we are trying to overcome. We just need to take ONE STEP. If I allowed her to hide, who’s to say she would magically be comfortable enough to step outside? For all I know, I might be feeding into her anxiety by allowing her to constantly think ‘outside the kitchen is scary’. She was still cautious whenever we stood up or walked around or when she heard new noises for the first time like typing of the keyboard, remote control on the table, clinking of our utensils as we ate. But at least now she could see what we were doing and associating clinking to eating. If she was in the kitchen and only depended on her ears, every sound will consistently be scary isn’t it?

3. Leash/Collar Pressure/Tethering
This, I learned from our friend @theroyaltail who also happens to dabble in dog training. (p.s you can check out her writing on Pawjourr too!) If you watch videos of Mayo walking in the shelter, she had no understanding of leash/collar pressure – which is why having anything remotely touching her aka leash would send her jumping, shutting down flat out on the ground and refusing to move. Now I’m not a trainer so i don’t think I can correctly verbalize what it means to teach a dog collar/leash pressure – but my understanding is to apply LIGHT pressure, and as soon as the dogs give in to it, reward!

We also did tethering exercises for 5-10mins everyday after her walks. After coming back from her walks, we kept her on the leash and walked her to different parts of the house. E.g we will walk her to the sofa area and sit there for 5 mins without talking to her or looking at her. In that 5 mins, she might be uncomfortable but as she processes whats around her we really saw her feeling braver to explore new parts of the house. We also took that opportunity to teach her things like ‘come’. When she sits far away from me (this is to be expected when you first start the tether especially if they are not warmed up to you) , I will put GENTLE GENTLE pressure on the leash and ask her to ‘come’. The moment she takes one step forward towards me, I mark the behavior with a GOOD GIRL and reward her with food if I have it on me 🙂

our tethering exercise

4. Walking Ahead
No, I’m not trying to tell you to dominate your dog and prove you’re alpha and all that (that’s another discussion for a whole other day). Don’t misunderstand – for fearful dogs, a lot of owners have shared that this tip was very helpful to them.

This is what I observed from Mayo and also after hearing feedback from owners with dogs fearful of the outdoors. Some people will tell you to let your dog sniff, let them walk anywhere they want to and discover. But for a fearful dog, personally, I find that when they walk ahead of you, they are more subject to reacting negatively and scaring themselves. When a bicycle is coming towards you and your dog, is it easier to manage if the dog is behind/beside you or ahead of you? I can’t count how many times Mayo will veer to another side when she sees a bike and her leash almost causing an accident with the bike. It is my personal opinion that fearful dogs need direction and leadership, solely because they have no clue how to deal with anything. Food is not going to work when a surprise bicycle comes heading for us, or when she’s already so occupied with fear from just leaving the house. However as a fellow owner rightly pointed out – fearful dogs also need to sniff assess their surroundings and be allowed to make choices. 100%! What i’m saying is if you notice your dog not focused on sniffing but in a panic mode, try walking ahead and redirect her 🙂 

After struggling with her leash walking when she got lost, a fellow owner shared her own experience with her fearful dog. She asked me to check my own confidence level on our walks and try to own the walk. That one day I picked up the leash confidently and whenever mayo got into her panic pulling, I stopped. Walked in front of her to block her and continued walking. She calmed down a significant amount. Since then, whenever we approach triggers or if she sees something that makes her a bit unsure, I set her to walk behind me and keep my leash short so I can easily manage her and she can just follow me confidently as we walk pass her triggers. That way she can watch me as i am giving her an example to follow and she doesn’t have to ‘face them alone’ (assuming she’s walking ahead) and over time will understand that these ‘triggers’ are nothing scary, we just need to walk pass them calmly. Of course now as she gets more and more confident, she gets to sniff wherever she wants to and pee/poop whenever and wherever she wants (;

5. Start Small don’t be over-ambitious & be patient
In order to get Mayo comfortable around the house, besides hand feeding, we tried conditioning, shaping & capturing desired behaviors. For example, in the first week, we tossed high-value food to where she was. At most, she would have to stand up and lean forward to get it. We increased the ‘difficulty’ and distance as the days go by. At 2 months, we tossed high-value treats around the house from a distance and she would have to run around the house to get them. After a while, she will realize walking around the house is not scary and that she does have the permission to walk around even in our presence. After a month of the tossing treats activity, we slowly increased the difficulty and made her come to us for the food. Subsequently, we hovered our hands over her head, and then adding a ‘touch’ cue where she would voluntarily let us brush ONE time on her head and immediately get a reward – associating the human touch with a positive thing.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B_4itKBjmQJ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Because Mayo couldn’t be touched and wasn’t warmed up to us humans it was almost impossible to teach her any tricks. We had to be extremely patient and wait for her to give us the desired behavior e.g sit, and I would ‘capture’ that behavior with a ‘GOOD GIRL’ every time she sits and toss her a reward. After a while, whenever she sat I introduced the word “SIT” and then mark it with a good girl followed by a reward. 5 months later….. she can sit. HAHAHA.

BONUS TIP!

6. Talk less
When we go on walks and meet a reactive dog, I always hear owners do this:
‘ NO NO! FRIEND FRIEND! EH WHY YOU LIKE THAT! NO… NO…. BUDDY NO…. DONT’ SCARE PEOPLE AH. HEY! NO! Stop it! FRIEND FRIEND’

Bro, even I don’t know what you want la. Do you think your dog understands everything you are saying? Dogs don’t understand English. They don’t know what you are saying and only associate the words to behaviors and your tone of voice. Talking to your dog excessively only confuses them especially when you are training because they don’t know what you want. For example, when I want her to sit, I say, ‘Mayo, sit’. And if she doesn’t, I don’t go ‘why mayo why you don’t sit? come on, sit for me please. good girl, sit la…’ Can you see how confusing that would sound? I just maintain, ‘Mayo, Sit.’ if she does – GOOD GIRL! Try not to overwhelm with talking also because the attention can be too much for them. A lot of us are guilty of that – i think of course there’s no harm in baby-talking our dogs especially when they come for a manja sesh. But personally when it comes to training and when you want to give a clear direction – the less you talk, the better. I also want my words to have weight and meaning and not yap away like a duck. Like Ronan Keating would say… “You say it best when you say nothing at all.”

And that’s all for now folks! 5 tips + a bonus. Let us know what you think! Does it make sense? And if you are going to try them let us know if it worked for you! But remember that every dog is different and they progress at their own time. Different dogs also need different levels of support. I have a fearful dog that shuts down instead of reacting and I can’t speak for the other spectrum of dogs 🙂 Also, success is not linear. If you face some set backs here and there don’t give up. It’s really part of the process.. If you have a tip for us, share it with us too!

Again we are not trainers but I would like to think Mayo has progressed A LOT after being with us and working with her. Thank you to everyone on our social media who have supported us and asked us for help! We are so humbled and we hope this will help you 🙂 Hang in there! You can do this <3

With love,
Mayo’s pawrents

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Community Stories

My rabbit’s favorite toys that I recommend you to try

Toys your bun can play with based on my personal experience

Ever wondered how intelligent your furry friends with long ears are? Well, they are actually more intelligent than you think. Rabbits have about the same IQ as the average cat or dog, and given their IQ, they need constant mental and physical stimulation with toys and plenty of exercise. It is important to change toys every once in a while so that they do not get bored. Just like us humans, rabbits will get bored very easily if they were made to eat the same foods, do the same things or play with the same exact toys everyday without a change in routine.

Here are a few of the toys that we have that may actually be useful for your little furry one. 😉

1. Ball of Apple Twigs from RHQ

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGuY6jDAIV/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

We got this toy for her about one month ago from RHQ Rabbit Headquarters. The ball is made of apple twigs that is safe to consume for rabbits. Just like any other bunny, Whiskers likes to chew on stuff, so this ball would be perfect for her. Since rabbit teeth are constantly growing just like our nails, they need to chew on something to prevent their teeth from overgrowing to the point that they become too long for them to eat anything.

Any chew toy should be made safe to eat for bunnies, and this ball manages to kill two birds with one stone by being both a chew toy for her to use her teeth on and a consumable product made with delicious apple twigs that she can feast on whenever she’s hungry. This can help to keep her busy while we’re at work so we don’t have to worry about her not being occupied with something. Since it’s a consumable product, it will run out once your rabbit has ate all of it and you will have to replace it with a new one. The ball can undo itself easily so you will need to pick up the pieces when it happens.

Pros:
– Made of natural edible material
– Allows them to play and eat healthily

Cons:
– Untangles itself easily due to weak material used, forcing you to clean up the mess whenever it occurs
– Not an infinite object – will run out once your bun consumes all of it and you will have to get a new one

2. Dangling wooden toy

The wooden toy hanging in Whiskers’ cage after the string broke and we have to fix it

Bunnies like to chew on anything, especially if it’s made of wood. Chewing not only prevents their teeth from overgrowing but it is also therapeutic for the bunny’s soul, just like hitting a punching bag is therapeutic for a human’s soul. If you have a lot of wooden furniture at home that you do not wish for your bunny to chew on, then this wooden toy should serve as an alternative to wooden furniture for them.

This toy is made entirely out of wood, attached to a string that connects it to a wooden hook to hang it on the ceiling of the cage. It is perfect for little critters who just can’t help but find wood to chew on. The toy stimulates them mentally so that they will not get bored, but the string is so brittle that it will break when your bun pulls it too hard.

We got this toy for her since she always likes to run into the master bedroom where most of the furniture is made of wood and we’ve had enough of her chewing on the wooden tables, walls, and any furniture from our living room that is made of wood. We thought that this toy would keep her from chewing other stuff so we got this for her. We also got this as an alternative to a small wooden log that we got for her before since she chewed only a small portion of that log and got bored of it that she resorted back to chewing our wooden furniture.

The wooden toy was hanging in her cage for two years until one day, in a fit of rage, she pulled it down, breaking the string that held it up. She probably got bored of it for being in her cage for two years. We had to put it back together since the string broke. Right now, it is still hanging up there in her cage but as a decoration rather than as a chew toy. She hardly ever touches it again since right now there are other toys that she prefers to this and her body is too obese for her to lift up her front legs to reach it.

Pros:
– Made of wood so it is good material for chewing and relieving stress
– Keeps rabbit entertained when left in the cage for hours

Cons:
– String is too weak. Will break if rabbit pulls it too hard
– Design is too simple and rabbit will grow bored of it after a few months.
– Some rabbits may not be able to reach the toy if it’s placed too high up

3. Toilet paper roll

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CBpKcX3DX0w/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
The cardboard tube is her favorite toy now

Do you know that toilet paper rolls are actually safe to consume for rabbits? It can also serve as a chew toy!

Toilet paper rolls are made of cardboard material that is safe to ingest for rabbits and satisfying for them to chew on. To make it even better, you should stuff some hay and other smaller snacks into the cardboard tube to add more variety to his/her diet. Make it more challenging by stuffing the hay in tightly and hide the tube with food in one place for extra difficulty 😉

Likewise, cardboard boxes are also a good toy for them and safe to consume. You can take pieces of cardboard and put them together to make a little house! 😉 You can cut square holes in the cardboard for them to jump through and play hide-and-seek. Just make sure to file the sharp edges with sandpaper so that they don’t get hurt from playing. Who knows? Maybe one day the cardboard house will become your little one’s favorite playground! 😀

Also, if you have some old phone books, don’t throw them away! It’s good to keep some old phone books and get your friends to do the same thing. Your little furry friend will really love to tear through the pages and rip the phone books into shreds, so be sure to save some old phone books for them! 😉

As you can see in the IGTV vid here, Whiskers really likes to play with the toilet paper roll. Ever since, we don’t see her chewing on our wooden furniture anymore now that the toilet paper roll has already made up for her boring wooden toy. The toilet paper rolls have proven time and time again that you don’t have to spend money to keep your little furry friend entertained. Sometimes, all it takes is a little creativity. 😉

Pros:
– Cost effective
– Can be used as a foraging toy
– Safe to consume

Cons:
– Not infinite. Must be replaced if all is eaten up by rabbit

4. Metal ball with bell

https://www.instagram.com/p/CB3HszajML0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
The toy in question is seen in most of Whiskers’ IG vids and photos

This is a round-shaped metal cage for you to stuff with hay. As they eat, the cage will shake and cause the bell to make a satisfying “ding” sound for their ears to pick up. Every time Whiskers brushes past it, she would trigger the bell sound. The bell sound is quite relaxing for a rabbit and not as loud as music from the radio.

The metal ball cage needs to be replenished with hay frequently since they consume hay in large amounts every day because hay forms a large part of a rabbit’s diet. Whenever there is no more hay left in this ball, Whiskers will get annoyed and thump her feet at us to show her disapproval. She’s like a five-year-old human kid who is addicted to sugar and gets mad when he runs out of sweets so he demands his mom for more sweets. These little critters are so adorable even when they get mad at us. XD <3

It’s best to replenish it with hay when it’s left half-full as their rate of hay consumption per day is quite high. They’ll get dissatisfied when the metal ball of hay is less than half-full and thump their feet at you like an angry rabbit. After all, it’s hay that they should consume more of and not carrots, so take that Bugs Bunny! 😀

See the source image
Source: https://facebookcovers.iorbix.com/facebook-cover-photos-timeline/characters/Bugs-Bunny-Whats-Up-Doc

When they’re not eating, you can ring that little bell for them to signal that it’s playtime. Sometimes, when your eyes are not on them, they may even ring the bell to communicate something to you, or to just show you that they are awake and hyper and cannot wait for playtime! XD

Pros:
– Metal chain is strong enough to hold the ball up so that it won’t break when pulled
– Perfect for hay storage. Can possibly be a foraging toy. 🙂
– Bell ringing is soft and ASMR. Most relaxing sound for a rabbit.

Cons:
– Not a suitable toy for chewing.

Conclusion

So here are the toys that we own which may be useful for your little one. What do you guys think of this list? Do you have any rabbit toys that are not listed here which can be fun and beneficial for your bunny? Share with us in the comments below! 🙂

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Community Stories

What is crate training and why it is important?

In addition to solid and functional obedience, crate training has to be one of the most valuable skills our dogs can have.  Before we go any farther, let’s get one thing out of the way right now – crate training your dog is not cruel, inhumane, or mean.  Often times we as humans relate a crate to jail or feel sorry for a dog that is in a crate, but it’s important to remember that we’re training through the dog’s mentality, not our own.

There are several beneficial reasons to crate training your puppy or dog, and yes, by crate training we are expecting the crate door to be closed.  

In my opinion, here is the most important reason to crate train your dog:  At some point in your dog’s life, they are going to be in a crate.  Whether it be at the groomer, at the vets’s clinic, boarding, at a friend’s home, in a car, or anywhere else, it is going to happen.  Preparing them for these situations is important and, in my opinion, not crate training your dog is doing a disservice to them as it causes a lot of stress, anxiety, and is extremely difficult on some dogs when they finally need to be put in that situation.

1. Provide a Safe Space

I had always thought that crates were cruel. One of the things I learned with the new pup is that crates are not cruel when used properly, and in fact can be a great tool for the average pet owner. Proper, positive crate training can provide benefits for both you and your dog.

Dogs have a natural instinct and crates can provide a haven for your dog when he is feeling stressed or tired and needs some downtime.

2. Help With Potty Training

Crates are great for house training. Dogs and puppies don’t like a soiled bed, so a properly sized crate is very useful to assist you in teaching him bladder and bowel control.

3. Household Safety

Having your dog resting comfortably in his crate while you are not able to supervise him is a bonus. Maybe you are cooking dinner or working on renovations where your pup could cause safety issues just by being underfoot. Having him tucked safely away will give you peace of mind.

4. Positive Car rides.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBcIQXTjJik/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Car travel in a crate is far safer for both of you than having him loose in the car.

5. Positive Vet Visits

If your dog ever needs to stay overnight at the vet’s, he will be far less stressed when he is confined in the cage or run if he has already been crate trained.

6. Reduce Damages

https://www.instagram.com/p/CE0gXNeD-yS/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Happily destroying our skirting.. -_-

You wouldn’t want to come home to find your furniture bitten or skirting destroyed to pieces. Unwanted disasters like these can be avoided by providing them stimulating dog toys or chews inside their crate, instead of them finding other interesting household items to destroy when left un-supervised and un-crated.

7. Evacuation

Finally, if you ever have to evacuate from your home in case of any kind of emergency, having a crate trained dog is so much easier for all concerned (Better Discipline). Whether you keep your dog with you, or he has to be handed over to others, your pup will be better off in his own crate. He’ll be more relaxed with his own blankets and toys with your scent on them, than one who is unfamiliar with a crate and therefore experiences undue stress.

To sum it up why crate training is so important.

  • It’s a tremendous aid in potty training your puppy or dog.
  • It makes traveling with your dog much easier as they have a familiar reference point wherever they go.
  • It’s important aid to creating structure in your dog’s life
  • It helps your dog to mentally relax
  • It gives your dog a place of their own to go and get some peace and quiet, especially in big gatherings etc.
  • Proper crate training can help reduce the anxiety when leaving your dog home alone.
  • It help prevent unwanted behaviours, such as chewing household objects, and more when you cannot be with your dog.

Although it may be emotionally hard for some of us, my advice is to put your dog’s crate in the proper location and immediately being crate training your dog from the second he or she sets foot in your home.  When your dog is properly crate trained as an adult, you may not utilise the crate as much but continuing to implement the crate into your dog’s daily routine so the benefits of crate training carry over for the dog’s life.

Misuse of Crates

Crates can also be misused and have a negative influence on your dog. Here are some uses to avoid:

  • It is very important to remember not to use a crate as punishment for your dog. His crate should be his haven. I have often found Kobe resting in his crate of his own accord with the door wide open.
  • While crates can be used for teaching your dog the house rules, it is NOT okay to use the crate as a crutch because of lack of training. Your dog wants to be with YOU, not spending his life in a crate, so be diligent about your training regime early on.
  • Never leave your dog in his crate for too long, especially puppies who have limited bladder control. If you must crate your dog while you are at work, it is important that he gets a potty break. If you are leaving him crated at home, it is absolutely essential that you make sure he gets plenty of exercise and playtime when you are around.

xoxo

Kobe’s Parents (Kendrick & Kimberly)