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Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 2/6: Bedding (1 Fleece)

If you made it this far, I’m assuming you are mildly sadistic and/or the kind of person who likes doing housework. If you haven’t read Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore Part 1/6: The Basics, I recommend you take a gander at https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbasics/ and decide if you are seriously up to the monumental responsibility of owning guinea pigs.

To recap, this series of articles address the unique challenges of caring for a guinea pig in Singapore. For a more general understanding of guinea pigs, refer to the links in the first article. Today, we will start exploring the second of the topics below:

  1. The Basics — a quick summary
  2. Bedding — how popular options perform in Singapore’s humidity
  3. Environment — keeping guinea pigs healthy & comfortable
  4. Sourcing Food & Products — buy stuff without breaking the bank
  5. Vegetables — local produce that guinea pigs love
  6. Health — common illnesses in Singapore and how to deal with them
instagram.com/mapetitemenagerie

Sunny Singapore is super hot and humid in comparison to most places where guinea pigs are popular as pets. So, when reading or watching videos about appropriate bedding, keep in mind that things will not dry as quickly here and will easily turn icky (imagine peed on poop). Also, mold and fungal growth is a huge problem; this is rarely an issue in colder, dryer climates. 

The following are the most commonly used types of bedding for guinea pigs around the world: fleece or fleece-lined products, pee pads, bath mats, wood shavings, paper-based cat litter, small animal paper bedding, newspaper, and shredded recycled paper. I’ll be discussing the pros and cons of the above list with regards to Singapore’s weather and the products’ availabilities in our locale.

I do not recommend…

  1. small animal paper bedding
  2. newspaper
  3. shredded recycled paper

Though easy to find in pet shops, small animal paper bedding, most commonly used for hamsters, are chock full of dust and can often lead to fatal upper respiratory illnesses for guinea pigs. It does not dry very quickly, so your guinea pig may end up sleeping on soggy, urine drenched, mush. Plus, it’s super expensive when you consider the quantity needed for a guinea pig enclosure and not at all effective at controlling odour. 

Though readily available and virtually free, newspaper and recycled paper, are full of chemicals that you do not want your guinea pig ingesting or inhaling. If you put something in a guinea pig pen, expect it to be chewed on. Lead, a common ingredient found on printed paper is toxic to guinea pigs and will lead to all kinds of nasty complications that can be fatal and will result in expensive veterinary bills. It’s not worth it! Plus, it’s also ineffective in absorbing urine or controlling odour and will give you dirty, stinky guinea pigs who have been sleeping in a cocktail of their own urine and faeces. If you really want the smell of guinea pig poop permeating through your home, there are other ways my strange friend. 

I recommend…

  1. Fleece or fleece lined products
  2. Pee pads (jump ahead to pee pads here)
  3. Some types of wood shavings
Photo credit: https://guineadad.com/

Fleece has recently become the go-to choice of bedding for guinea pig lovers around the world. Eco-friendly, soft, and wicking, guinea pigs and their owners love fleece. However, in Singapore’s humidity, fabrics dry infinitely slower than in most other climates. Fleece does not perform quite as well here as it is described to by most guinea pig aficionados on the web; expect to change out fleece bedding twice as often as otherwise recommended. Keep in mind that fleece is warm, and Singapore is hot. Our goal is to keep guinea pigs cool, dry, and clean.

Pro tip: Guinea pigs tend to poop under hideys and next to their food so add extra “protection” around those areas for easier spot-cleaning.

That being said, fleece is still a great option to consider. Guineadad liners are the most popular pre-made fleece solution with a wicking top layer, an absorbent middle, and a waterproof bottom layer. Alternatively, similar pre-made fleece liners can be bought on Taobao and Amazon. Local small businesses in Singapore who make adorable fleece hideys and tunnels for guinea pigs can also make customizable full-sized cage liners. Contact them at Snugglebutts and The Maris Crafts.

Pro tip: Fold over Guineadad pockets on the 2×4 liners as they can get quite damp and nasty in Singapore’s humidity!

Photo Credit: instagram.com/thefoodiepiggies

The second fleece-based bedding option is a D.I.Y. combination of a layer of fleece on pee pads, towels, or on a waterproof liner. The best place to get large swaths in Singapore is Spotlight. I would recommend going down to the store at Plaza Singapura to check out all the adorable designs and select the amount you would like. To make things more complicated, there are several types of fleece. In short, make sure to choose anti-pill fleece. For more information, read this. Alternatively, Snugglebutts and The Maris Crafts make various sizes of fleece mats and pads that you can easily mix, match, and switch out when dirty.

Pro tip: Wash fleece at least 3x before first use to “unlock” its inherent wicking properties. Also, NEVER use dryer sheets or softeners!

There is no secret formula to finding the best bedding type for guinea pigs. Your ideal setup will come down to your personal cleaning habits and preferences, and you will most likely have multiple types of bedding at hand.

Learn more on the next article in the series as we continue to explore types of bedding and how they perform in Singapore! https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbedding2/

Come say hi on our instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/mapetitemenagerie.com

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Choosing the Right Toys for Your Dog

Toys are essential items for all dogs, regardless of age and breeds. All dogs love to play to a certain extent. Playing and chewing are natural canine behaviours.

There are so many dog toys options in the market now, so choosing toys for your dog can be overwhelming, especially for new owners. Then there’s the other end of the spectrum where overzealous dog owners end up buying every single toy in sight cos they are cute, without considering the form or functions of these toys. Some owners may end up with a giant pile of toys gathering dust because the toys they chose do not interest their dogs or there are simply too many.

So how do you choose toys that your dog will actually like?

A dog’s toy preference depends on their personal style of playing and chewing. Instead of buying just any toy in the store, try to be more purposeful in selecting and trying out a few different types of toys.

Here are the common types of dog toys in the market, and these are also the ones that I personally allow Duoji to play with at home.

Balls

A quintessential dog toy, balls are classic examples that we see everywhere, in movies, books, etc. There’s a reason why they are so popular and evergreen.

They are great for playing fetch, rolling around and getting your pup to chase it, or even as a chew toy depending on the material used. Generally, the more durable ones like rubber balls last longer and are safer for them. Personally, I wouldn’t recommend those foam ones or even tennis balls, as it’s easy for your dog to chew off bits of it and ingest them.

When choosing a ball for your dog, try to pick one that is large enough for them to carry without accidentally swallowing it, but small enough to comfortably hold in the mouth.

This is a good size for Duoji but the foam material didn’t last long.
This plastic ball isn’t that great for playing but it makes a funny sound when it’s rolling.

Chew toys

Can they be called dogs if they don’t enjoy chewing? Chew toys are another classic and must-have toys for all furkids. Feeding into their natural instinct to chew, such toys can help to ease boredom, reduce dental plaque, and are great especially when your pup is teething.

They come in many different shapes and sizes, and materials. Depending on whether your dog is a strong chewer, you might need to select chews toys with different hardness levels. Try around a few types and if you observe your dog making a dent in the toy or even chewing off a chunk easily, then that’s probably not hard enough for your power chewer.

  • Kong Dental Squeezz
For a longer chew time or to engage/distract them, choose this type with grooves to stuff treats in.
I love this one from Kong, Not only is it durable and gives a good chew, it’s great for a game of fetch. Due to its odd shape, the toy bounces in different directions each time when it hits the floor, which gives an added level of excitement during play time.
You can squeeze doggy toothpaste into this one for extra teeth cleaning while your pup is chewing. It’s a bit messy to clean up though.

The first-ever chew toy I got for Duoji was a mini Nylabone. As a first time owner, I just grabbed the most readily available ones and Nylabone can be found easily at all PLC outlets. However, I kept finding little bits of the toy around the house. Eventually, I tossed it out. Subsequently, I read up a little bit more about Nylabone and found that there were quite a bit of negative reviews on it, from the pieces of plastic breaking off and being ingested by dogs, to causing tooth fractures, etc.

To be fair, regardless of brands and materials, the real danger of any chew toy lies in the potential damage to your dog’s teeth or digestive system so the best way is to monitor closely. If the toy becomes too battered or you keep finding bits of it, chances are your furkid needs a tougher chew toy.

Duoji’s first Nylabone chew toy.

Stuffed toys

Stuffed toys are great as a snuggle buddy and can serve as a chew toy for the more gentle chewers. They usually contain squeakers and some kind of stuffing, so for power chewers, it’s best to supervise them during play just in case they rip it apart and ingest the stuffing.

These toys tend to be cheaper but don’t last very long. They also tend to get dirty more easily and would require more frequent washing and disinfecting, as compared to toys made from other materials like rubber etc, which can be wiped easily.

I personally avoid those that are furry, cos the fibres might be ripped off by your dog while chewing and ingested, or cause a mess around the house.

Just a fraction of Duoji’s stuffed toy collection. There’s a random knotted towel in there which is great for chewing as well.
I love this one from Daiso! It’s ultra durable and the material (a bit net-like) is easy to clean. Washes and dries quickly too. I have a spare one in storage just in case this one is gone.
This is what I meant by furry toys. The fibres may dislodge easily, plus the fur gets all clumpy and yucky when wet with your dog’s saliva. Not recommended.

Tug toys

Most dogs love a good game of tug-of-war. It’s fun and an excellent way to tire your pup out. There are many types of tug toys in the market – choose one that is comfortable for you to hold in your hand and pull on, as well as easy for your dog to bite and pull on.

In addition, they should be durable enough to withstand your dog’s pulling. Be sure to replace worn-out tug toys so they do not break in the middle of a game.

Be mindful not to tug too hard when playing. If your dog wouldn’t release the toy, just let it go and try again. I’ve heard stories of dogs getting their teeth pulled out during games.

Rope toys are a popular choice when it comes to tug games but personally, I don’t recommend as they tend to fray very easily. The fibres, when detached and ingested, can cause a serious obstruction in your dog’s digestive tract. There are many online literatures citing the dangers of rope toys. Do read up and make an informed decision.

The above-mentioned Daiso stuffed toy. Notice the frayed rope portion? I removed it subsequently.

Interactive Toys

Apart from a good physical workout, dogs need ample mental stimulation as well. Learning tricks/obedience training, and having a good walk and sniff session outdoors are great ways to achieve this. Why not up the ante with interactive toys?

Common ones include food-dispensing toys and puzzles and come in many variations. These can be on the pricey end of things but in general, you don’t as many of these in your collection. Personally, I source for mine via Taobao or Ezbuy, which is much cheaper than local stores.

Will work for food.

Nose-work toys

To a dog, their sense of smell is everything. It’s what they rely on to explore their surroundings, suss out food, recognise people and peers, identify danger, etc. Hence, it’s always a good idea to incorporate toys that can help to train them to use their noses more.

Snuffle mats are a good choice because of their huge variety and ‘pattern’. Some designs can even be folded and kept in a compact bag for easy storage. They can also be easily DIY-ed if you’re the crafty sort. All you gotta do is to hide some treats in the numerous folds or layers and watch your dog go on a hunt to uncover all the treats. Alternatively, burrow toys are a good choice as well!

Lazy girl taking a short cut by lifting up the mat and scattering the treats all over.

Bonus: Larger than life toys

Well, this is entirely optional but a ‘cute-to-have’ addition in your collection. Duoji absolutely loves stuffed toys that are way larger than her. She’ll drag them all over the house, lie on them, attack and ‘fight’ with them, etc. Maybe it’s like having a sibling…

I hope this list serves as a quick guide to choosing the appropriate toys for your dog. For dog toys, variety is better than quantity, or else you’ll soon end up with clutter. After all, they can only play with that many toys in a single session and who’s gonna clean up the mess? =P

Quick tip: Try rotating the toys by switching out a couple of them with something else, then re-introducing them again after a while. Your dog will probably think they are brand new and you save money and avoid building up a pile of unused toys.

Until our next post!
@duojipoodle

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What I wished I knew better before getting a puppy

So imagine this. You’re finally at that point in your life where you decide you’re ready to welcome a new member of the family- to raise a dog. You’ve done all your research, asked a couple friends and family for advice and finally decide to book that viewing appointment to see your doggo to-be.

And of course what better time than now right? With Covid-19 sticking around, 2020 is the perfect time to train and build that relationship without much FOMO (*the ‘Fear of Missing Out’)! You also start to rationalize and picture the next 10 years of your life, all while telling (well more like, convincing) yourself everyday that ‘You’re making the right choice! No regrets you got this! ? ‘

Now does this sound familiar?

If it does, then you’re probably a lot like me- optimistic, an over-thinker & someone who underestimates way too much. But hey, consider yourself blessed today because I’ll be sharing the things I wished I could have prepared myself better for while sharing a little more about my experiences as a first-time puppy owner!

The First Interaction

Here’s Calie (the one with the folded ears) chilling with her siblings, now formally known as Dole (in the pen) and Toufu (on top of Calie) at 3 months old!

When I met Calie, she was with her other little siblings playing around and was being this wholesome picture of ‘childlike innocence’ that I instantly fell in love with. Meeting the pups for the very first time almost had me in tears behind my face mask because I was basically achieving my childhood dreams of wanting a dog (yes, I was that child) and it was such a surreal moment for me. But you see, that’s the easy part. The idea of having a loyal companion by your side, giving you that unconditional love and acceptance to brighten up any bad day may seem like such a promising idea most of the time, but you have to realise that this should not be the sole deciding factor – which leads me to my first point:

1. Commitment: It’s the most important!

Now this personally, should be the very first thing you think about before getting that dog in the window! It is a known fact that dogs can live up to 10-15 years and they definitely require a lot of time invested, energy, money and commitment. There are many articles that will tell you that to the point where it literally becomes ‘textbook knowledge’, but you won’t realise how serious this becomes until you live the life yourself! But not to worry, if you’d like to know if you’re prepared for it, here are a few questions you can ask yourself:

  • Why do you want a dog to begin with?
  • Do you have time to train the puppy/dog?
  • Can you afford a dog right now?
  • Is your current home environment suitable for the particular breed you have in mind?
  • Are you ready to deal with the problems (aka ‘collateral damage’) that comes with raising a dog? – from chewing everything in its path to unforeseen health emergencies
  • …Did you do your research?

If you’ve managed to say ‘Yes’ to everything, then you’re pretty much set! On the other hand, if you went ‘Errr…Maybe?’ you might want to rethink the decision for now and wait things out, or adjust a few things in your life before making a choice.

Now as daunting as all this responsibility may seem, there is something so gratifying and rewarding about raising a puppy/dog and you can learn so much every single day from the experience alone- I know I have.

2. Be patient- Good things take time!

Raising puppies / Re-training dogs can be extremely hard! (and I’ve been to nursing school HA). The physical and mental exhaustion can be very demoralising as you help your new furriend to adjust to new environments and it doesn’t help whenever they make ‘potty accidents’, cry almost 24/7 from that separation anxiety, and treat your home like a natural disaster!

On the very first trip back to her furever home!
(aka. moments before disaster)

Yes, the ‘Puppy Blues’ are no joke and it began from the minute we brought Calie home – if you must know, she immediately marked the floors and had the worst cases of urinary incontinence (aka. a leaky bladder) for 2 weeks straight and although this was normal for puppies, I was loosing my sanity by the minute and would have uncontrolled bursts of frustrations where I would lash out or even breakdown at the most random timings. In fact, if you’d like to know more about these ‘Puppy Blues’, hop right over to @hoshi_sheltie ‘s blog after this and read their post as they talk about the real struggles and exploring ways to overcome them!

But just like how a baby needs time to learn manners, you have to understand that dogs are naturally pack animals and have instincts on their own. The more time and training you invest with your pup, the better you can curb negative behavior and build a great relationship! As a person who’s always occupied with tight schedules, it was not easy to suddenly make adjustments to a lifestyle I’ve grown accustomed to for years just so I had enough time to train Calie and help make her adapt well with the family and it was a challenge to be constantly multi-tasking. I also strongly believe in positive reinforcement when training Calie and as a result she’s able to understand and pick up on instructions a lot more efficiently as opposed to negative reactions like yelling/hitting her (which I never do), and I’m proud of how strong our relationship is every single day, because I know all my time sacrificed is not in vain.

On the other hand, I do understand that there are people who may not be able to have the luxury of time and patience but would still like to try caring for a dog. A good suggestion would be to discuss with your families/loved ones and talk about how the responsibilities can be shared or alternatives like sending the dog to ‘puppy school’ or having a private trainer.

“Patience is not the ability to wait, but the ability to keep a good attitude while waiting.”

JOYCE MEYER

3. Unpopular Belief: Money Trees should really grow actual money for a change!

Now THIS is a real problem for not just myself, but in many pet owners out there especially in this time. The cost of living can be stressful for us hoomans, let alone for a dog & you would not imagine how much it takes to ensure your pup is in its best health and living in an optimal environment constantly. Of course, it would be a dream if I could give my pup the whole world (and possibly even more) if it meant making them the happiest doggos out there!

A visit to the vet for her last puppy vaccination

Before making a decision to bring Calie home, my family & I had to layout the possible costs for the next couple years and honestly it wasn’t such an easy pill to swallow. Besides the initial cost it took to get Calie, some examples of things I would typically get worried about is being able to provide food every month, to the many vet consultations as a result of unforeseen health scares , transportation costs (we don’t have a car to get around) and other miscellaneous items (eg. walking necessities, trivial accessories, etc.) – and that’s just to name a few! As a first-time owner I had my first rude awakening when I saw the bill for Calie’s vet consultation & I really thought my soul was ready to depart my body right there in front of the counter. However thankfully, we’re slowly learning to anticipate better in time to be more prepared for ‘financial emergencies’ & that’s something I hope to be much better at very soon.

Now I’ve heard of different ways to combat financial issues from many people and for new pawrents to-be, I’ve narrowed down a couple tips to consider:

  1. As much as possible please ADOPT, don’t shop! – there are so many fur babies who are still looking for homes to call their own, please think of them first.
  2. Consider applying for Pet Insurance (covering medical emergencies)- you never know when you’ll need to visit a vet and how often you go!
  3. Support Local businesses in the pet community! – There are so many brands out there run by pawrents themselves that cater from food, accessories and toys! (personally I have a list of brands for my reference)
  4. Make friends who can getchu lobang yall! – I’m talking brand ambassador discounts, special offers, and even the many pet giveaways on social media (eg. Instagram, Facebook), which is great news for shopaholics such as myself whoops ?

So resist that temptation to overspend and just leave it in the cart first, trust me. (yes I’m looking you, my fellow bo lui gang)

But do note that you should only spend within your means, because “Money will buy you a fine dog, but only love can make it wag its tail” – Richard Friedman!

Calie sending all the positive vibes your way!

Anyways, those are my top 3 points to consider before thinking of making room for a new fur member of the family. So far, raising Calie has had its ups and downs, but I really do cherish every single moment I have with her always. If there’s anything I regret, it would be me wishing there was more things I could have been prepared for but everyday is a learning process for the both of us and sometimes there are just some things you need to learn along the way!

I can’t wait to see where life takes us in the next couple of years, and I’ll always do my best to ensure she lives a life that’s well-fulfilled and full of love. To all the new pawrents to be, both Calie and I wish you all the best in this new chapter of your life and to have fun with the process, you deserve this! ?

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How did I introduce my puppy to 7 cats?

I am often asked how to make my new puppy (Kobe) get along with my family cats (Pawsanova 7x)

Today I will reveal some of my own opinions and the homework we have done to get my Tripod Puppy be part of my cat family!

The First Step

Kobe cleaning his best friend,

The first step in the process of integrating a dog to your cat(s) is to provide controlled safe exposure. The dog must either be in a dog crate or on a leash in the house 100% for a long long time. This period will be weeks but many times it can be months. (We took 2-3months) 

There is really no hurry. A gentle introduction is far safer than a rushed one, and will hopefully result in both pets becoming good friends. 

I recommend the use of a dog crates if you have space at home. (We use the common toilet as a ‘crate’ instead). The use of a crate is the safest way to make sure you can control the environment. It allows you to focus on the cats while the dog is in the crate.

In the beginning, our cats are put in a separate room before the dog is brought into the house. Always leash your dog while entering a house(Any house, whether is it meet and greet, going to a friend house, or adopting a new pet). This shows them that coming into the house is a controlled experience and not someplace where they can charge around and act crazy.

In other words; you must always be in control of your dog, and the environment you’re in; That’s how accidents are avoided. We don’t leave things to chance. By having the dog on leash, I have control of him if the cat runs and he tries to chase.

People often ask us “When we decided to get dog be off leash and have fun with the cats?” The answer is simple; when you can control the dog under distraction. (Kobe is under obedience training) If you can’t call your dog to you when it is highly distracted by your cat – then the dog is not under your control and it should either be on leash; or in a crate.

In The Crate

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDvk3uGDakd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Once in the crate the dog is expected to be calm and quiet. If the dog barks at the cats; he got verbally scolded. If they will not stop barking we either close the toilet door (because our crate is the common toilet) The dog was never allowed to be in the house and out of the crate unless it’s on leash. It’s never taken out of the crate (on leash) when the cat is in the room until it has gone ONE WEEK without barking at the cats.

This does not mean the dogs are locked in dog crates for weeks at a time. They can have free (on leash) time in the house but in the beginning the cats are always put in a different room when the dog is out.

If you’re adopting an adult dog and trying to introduce them to the cats, he can be acclimated to a muzzle. We like the rubber mashed basket muzzles because they are less restrictive to the dog. Getting the dog used to the muzzle during these first weeks gives the dog something else to think about other than the cats in the house. After weeks of wearing it in the crate it becomes second nature for the dog to have it on.

When the day comes to allow the dog to be loose in the rooms with the cats it is important to do this while the dog is on leash. If that goes well then have the dog in a muzzle.

Should the adult dog shows the slightest sign of aggression towards the cats it needs to get a correction. The severity of the correction will vary by the temperament of the dog. Some dogs simply need to be told NO !! – while other dogs require a stronger correction.

The correction needs to be strong enough that the dog will remember it the next time it thinks about being aggressive to the cats. If you have been doing your training correctly your dog will be looking at you as it’s pack leader. Pack leaders determine when to use aggression – not lower ranking members of the pack.

If a dog repeated ignores your warnings you have not done a good enough job of establishing yourself as this dogs leader. Should this be the case you need to go back to training and work on that. You might want to work on the dogs obedience training as well.

He will instinctively accept you as pack leader and your position that cats are not prey items to chase and kill.

At some point in time the muzzle must come off.

This should only happen when you are comfortable with your dog’s actions when the dog is on leash and the cats are around. You must have patience. For adult dogs and cats this could take months. With time they will settle into a life style where both sides accept the fact that they now share the same territory.

Dogs and Cats being friends

Kobe with the cats

The best of all worlds is when our dogs and cats become friends.

I need to say that there is a fine line between allowing the dog and cat to get to know one another play together and creating a safe environment. Running in the house should never be allowed, even if it seems to be in play. When cats run this can easily trigger prey drive in the dog.

Cats and Dogs

Some cats accept dogs better than others.

Kobe and Kovacs sharing bed together.

One of our cats (Kovacs the American Curl) become Kobe’s bestfriend immediately when they first lay eyes on each other.  They play together, eat and sleep together.

This is Archie. Another best friend.

Whereas our another cat Ramsay would jump up and walk away in disgust for months. Over time Enzo became more tolerant towards Kobe and will eventually allow Kobe to be close to him. Kobe has no aggression towards our cats to begin with, we are very lucky. But because he is a big dog, our priority is still our cats’ safety. Prevention is better than Cure.

On the other hand Lokie the Munchkin has never warmed to dogs. He learns to tolerate them on an individual basis, but he will always “hiss” if Kobe come too close. 

With a little bit of luck and dedication, you will be able to get your dog and cat to live together in peace. It’s very important to remember to go slowly. No matter how quickly or badly you want it to happen, you have to allow these things to process at their own speed, which can be a snail’s pace over months. The best advice I can give is to error on the side of caution and don’t take chances with your pets lives.

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How to regain the trust of a scared rabbit

Whiskers chillin' beside the sofa

A story of how I made up with my bun after grabbing it

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAZv2JXATQf/

Read til’ the end for a happy ending! 🙂

The mistakes

Many young and inexperienced owners like me would not hesitate to pick up their bunny and put them on their lap or stomach so that they could stroke their little one, like how you would cuddle a baby. However, owners do not realize that picking up their rabbit would only cause them great fear, for rabbits are prey animals.

When Whiskers first came to our home, I would try to pick her up and put her on my lap so that I could cuddle her like a baby. I used to think that doing so would let her get used to me but it only made her more scared of me. Back then, I didn’t quite like the idea of letting an animal roam freely around the house since I was afraid they would go missing or ingest things that they shouldn’t eat. Plus, I liked the feeling of putting her on my lap to feel her affection and getting fur all over my clothes. Even though I let her roam freely sometimes, she would not leave the cage until I am out of her sight because she feared me for grabbing her from the cage every time I played with her. And when she does, she will hide in a dark corner and remain there until she feels like going back to the cage.

Sometimes, I would put her on a table or a very tall drawer so that she can pose for pics, and putting her high up would confine her to a small area since I wasn’t that fond of letting an animal roam freely, but doing so would only make her feel stressed out because being put in high places would simulate the experience of being too far above the ground that predators can see them.

Whiskers posing in front of a Koko Krunch Cereal box on a white table

Rabbits do not like to be picked up since they are ground-based animals and the higher above the ground they are, the more stressed they will feel.

Reasons for their behaviors

In the wild, rabbits will stay as close to the ground as possible or even better for them, dig a hole underground and hide there. A rabbit that is higher and further away from the ground will be exposed to predators like eagles or vultures. Being low on the ground would lower their chances of being spotted by airborne predators while being at higher altitudes would make them easily visible to their predators and more likely to get eaten. This is why these lagomorphs need to be left on the ground as much as possible, as they feel more sheltered when they are not being picked up

Like their wild counterparts, domesticated rabbits will feel uncomfortable with being picked up. Whenever an owner picks them up, it will remind them of being abducted by an eagle or vulture in the wild (Not saying that your bun has been captured by predators before, but picking them up will simulate that experience of being abducted by a predator if they were in the wild).

Back then, I didn’t understand why she would be so scared of me. I thought she was just scared of humans, only to realize she was just scared of me. As she got older, Whiskers became more rebellious and difficult to control. Picking her up got even harder now that she became more defensive. She would refuse to eat from my hand and even bit me once because she thought that I was going to grab her out of the cage.

I want to bond with my bun, the RIGHT WAY

Tired of being feared by my little furry one, I went to research on ways to gain back her trust, to no avail. Then one day, I came across a reddit post by this bun owner who also had a similar situation to mine. He said that his bun became scared of him ever since he grabbed her and doesn’t know how to win her trust back. He also shared that he didn’t trust the experts’ articles either because he has Asperger’s.

I’ve made my bun scared of me and depressed 🙁
byu/Meunier33 inRabbits
Getting help from this guy on Reddit

Then, I was enlightened by one commenter on that reddit post. According to that comment, one must sit near their rabbit while occupying themselves with their phone, book, TV or Nintendo Switch for a few days, while still attending to the rabbit’s basic needs such as replenishing their hay, cleaning their cage, etc. After the rabbit is used to your presence, you can try hand-feeding it to see if it’s comfortable being near you.

Thanks to susanshoos from Reddit!

It worked!

So I decided to try this out. I started by sitting near her cage while using my phone or playing with my switch lite so that she gets used to me being around. After a few days, I tried feeding her dandelion delights, her favorite snack by hand. This time, she ate it from me without fear. She took a few more pieces before getting head strokes from me. I was thrilled!

https://www.facebook.com/100008172999872/videos/2681078472174560

Ever since that day, Whiskers isn’t scared of me anymore. Now, she likes to follow me around whenever she is on the loose. She would crave snacks from me especially if I whip out a piece of heart-shaped carrot/apple dill (she used to refuse eating from my hand before this). Unlike before, I would not pick her up, knowing that she needs to have the freedom to explore the house by running around to get some exercise. I also do not put her on surfaces above the ground knowing that she doesn’t like it, but she will still climb onto the sofa herself just to be near me when I sit on the sofa.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CBViEn1Dvtx/
Whiskers happily playing on the sofa 🙂

So if you ever need to win back your rabbit’s trust after grabbing them, just do what I did, and in just a few days they will like you back. Just remember not to grab them again and let them roam around the house freely for more exercise! 🙂

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Community Stories

The Lost and Found of Rico

I will be sharing with everyone the whole story of how Rico was lost and found, and some measures to take if (touch wood) any of you experience it in the future.

It was just an ordinary day when I was off from work, doing my own things, running errands and catching up my life. I still can remember how Rico greets me when i am back from the errands which was around 5.15pm. After a while around 5.30pm, my grandpa came back home and I also went to my nanny’s house for a chit chat, which was just one floor below mine. I just close the gate door without locking it. Now, the house is left with my grandparents.

“Panic starts to creep in…”

About 6.35pm, I came back home and that was when the panic started to creep in. I felt utterly quiet and Rico did not come forward to greet me at the door. I asked my grandparents and they thought I brought Rico out with me the whole time. I tried to find Rico around the house but to no avail.

Ignoring my grandparents’ nagging, I started off searching the corridor. I was still in disbelieved at the moment, my heart raced very fast. Realizing that Rico was really lost, I went into panic mode frantically searching for her high and low at my housing block. I walked aimlessly to each floor and every unit hoping I could find her. To my dismay, none.

By this time, my aunt had come back home from work and knew about Rico. We soon start to search around the void decks, carparks, parks and places that usually Rico will go to. But, none.

We then went back home, trying to cool down and think of what exactly had happened and ways to find her. We had different views such as:

  • Grandma – “I saw someone at the door playing with Rico while I was in the kitchen. I thought it was one of our neighbours. But I don’t really know who is it, is like some woman wearing dark shirt. Don’t know is it carried away by someone else already.”
  • Grandpa – “When I came back home around 5.30pm, I didn’t saw Rico already.”

It was so hard to figure out exactly what had happened. My grandparents were not very sure about a lot of things and they also did not really pay attention during that timing. Plus, our neighbours would usually come and play with Rico whenever they passed by as Rico is very friendly to humans.

Soon my parents came to help for the search and we also asked for CCTV footage from our neighbor. The CCTV footage only managed to record a woman wearing dark clothing; carried many things, passing by at 5.53pm. This was when we suspected that it might be the same woman that my grandma mentioned and she might have carried away Rico while the door was not locked. We decided to report to the police, hoping police could help retrieve CCTV footage around the block and lifts to see any traces of Rico.

7.30pm at the police station: we gave whatever information we have. However, they cannot investigate as we were lack of information and some do not tally with one another’s views. “What is the timing that your grandma saw the person come and play with Rico?” “Is Rico still around at 5.15-5.30pm before you went to your nanny’s house? Your grandpa said didn’t saw her but you remember she was at home. So which one?” My mind went blank and speechless. The only action they could do was to take note of a lost dog and lookout if any of the public came to return Rico. They suggested to contact AVS and SPCA (which I also knew).

As I was back home disappointed, I call both AVS and SPCA but sadly SPCA was closed for the day. It was then that I decided to inform my friends and asked them to spread and share on social media. My parents will then settle the posters however it can only be done the next day.

With the help of my neighbours, we went searching for Rico again at my housing block. Hoping to attract Rico’s attention this time, we called out her name and using toy. We believed that Rico might be still somewhere in my housing block, maybe one of the units as she do not really know how to climb up/down the stairs. Rico will also get tired out easily, she would not run that far unless it was really carried away by someone else.

Along the way, we got some insights such as a unit at the 11th floor saw Rico running across their corridor, someone saw Rico-lookalike at the minimart. We also met some helpful neighbours who came to help a little. But still, none again.

Soon around 9.45pm, my friends specifically came down all the way to help me out. Taking over my neighbour, we continue searching my housing block. Despite knowing that Rico would not bark when outside, we still try all possible means to catch her attention. My friends also help to deal with the social media sides at the same time and give me suggestions such as animal communication (AC) etc. However, AC was busy at the moment, could not attend Rico’s case.

As time passed by, we felt the urge to get the posters up asap. My friend helped to draft out a few posters to paste near my area so that at least someone would be aware of it. Only by 10.45pm, we then started to put up the posters.

11.20pm: posters were up but still no sign of Rico. We could not continue the search as it was quite late and we afraid that we might disturb the neighbours. My friends all went back, I still did not gave up and just walking around the neighbourhood in hope for Rico.

“Worst day of the life…”

12.20am: came back empty-handed, disappointment, lost. It was the worst day of my life. I did not expect such things to happen on me. A lot of thoughts running through my head now. “Where is Rico exactly?” “Why you suddenly so daring to run away?” “Are you in a safe place now?” “Have you eaten or drink anything?” “Did someone really carried you away?” All I could do was just to pray and hoping Rico could come back home soon. I even placed toys outside the corridor so that Rico can smell her way back home.

2.30am: I was settling the social medias. Seeing everyone trying to help me find Rico and all the prayers from them really warms me. I was touched that so many friends and even strangers were helping me.

“I couldn’t sleep at all…”

4.15am: I was still wide awake, crying. I switched off my silent mode, waiting for any calls or messages to inform me Rico was with them. I even dreamt that I have found Rico.

7.30am: It was raining, I got really worried. Why does it have to rain today! My aunt went out early to search for Rico again. But still no sign.

8.30am: I was fully awake and have taken urgent leave for work. Still, there were no calls and messages. I prayed that the rain could quickly stop but it rain even heavier. The weather was cold, I am afraid that Rico was out without any shelter.

10.30am: Still no calls or messages, I assumed many had not gone out and saw the posters as the weather that day was too good to sleep in. Finally, a full stack of posters was ready to put up. I have told my parents to paste the posters around the neighbourhood while my friends and I would go door-to-door knot in my housing block.

11.30am: My friends and I started the door-to-door knock. Since my block was in a L-Shaped, I decided to start off with the top floor (12th) on right side of the block which the unit had last seen Rico running across their corridor.

“Is that Rico?!”

11.50am: When we were about to go to our 3rd unit of door-to-door knock, I heard my friend gasped loudly. “Is that Rico?!” Shockingly asked me. I immediately went forward and I SAW RICO! She was sitting near the door. WE FINALLY FOUND RICO!!! We were so overjoyed that my friend even cried. Rico saw us too, but she just happily wagging her tail away. I approached the uncle in that unit and he was glad that Rico was found too.

Luckily, the uncle saw Rico loitering outside his corridor and brought her in as he was worried about Rico’s safety. The uncle tried to find the owner but Rico did not wear any collar tag and the posters were not put up yet. I also recalled that we have gone to that unit previously but the door was closed, hence unable to see that Rico was in that unit. Thankfully all this while, Rico was in good hands. She got a proper shelter, the uncle cooked her a good meal (better than mine), he even accompanied Rico to sleep in his living room. In summary, Rico was enjoying while everyone was panicking searching for her. ?

12.15pm: Rico finally got back home safely, everyone was elated. I was really really relieved that I can reunited with Rico again. Gave the uncle a small token of appreciation and here is his return:

“Thank you for the goodies. And the sweet memories Rico gives me. Take good care of her, I missed her already” – Uncle

We are so fortunate and bless to have met such a kind soul. Without the help from the uncle, we could not imagine how Rico would be like. I am also glad that we are able to make new friends.

Pointers to Note:

From this incident, here are a few points to take note:

  1. Do always wear a collar tag on your dog
  2. Timing is very important. Try to remember as much as possible and the whole timeline should your dog get lost.
  3. Take actions immediately and waste no time. This could help quicken the process of finding your dog.
  4. Report to AVS and SPCA. AVS hotline is 24/7 but do take note of the operating hours for SPCA.
  5. Report to police (optional), unless you have valid informations. They can’t really help much though.
  6. Do up posters immediately
  7. Spread and post up on social media
  8. Try your very best and continue the searching
  9. You may contact animal communication too
  10. Lastly will be the waiting game. It may be very dreadful but please do not give up and continue to pray for it. I see many people have come together in helping to find Rico. I am sure some days your dog could be found soon.
Finally a peaceful night

At last, everything was back to normal, Rico was still her usual self. In fact, I am actually wondering does she even know that she got lost? It is still a mystery how did Rico run out from my house which is on 6th floor of the left side of the block, and ended up on 12th floor of the right side of my block. By the lifts? Or did she really climb up the stairs? No one knows, only Rico does… ?

Categories
Community Stories

Home-cooked Food – Facts and Myths

PSA – I am self-taught and this guide is not meant to be an exhaustive list or replace what your vet/nutritionist advised you! I just want to share some nuggets of information I picked up along the way 🙂

Myth #1: Dogs can eat exactly what humans eat!

Dear hoomums and hoodads out there, do you have the misconception that dogs eat exactly what we eat? For instance, rice, meat and vegetables are sufficient to constitute a nutritious and balanced diet?

Like many of you, when I first adopted Max, that was what I thought. However, after a horrible itchy episode that Max suffered, I realised that what I was feeding was highly inflammatory and not even balanced!

What is a balanced diet then?

A quick rule of thumb is the 80 – 5 – 15 rule that I follow. There are slight variations out there and it all depends on your dog (and any pre-existing health conditions that he/she may have)

Generally, 80% of the bowl should be filled with meat.

Meat includes pork, chicken, beef, crocodile, lamb etc. It can be minced or in cubed form, whichever your dog prefers. Additionally, try spicing up the meat options by adding in different seafoods such as canned tuna in water (do check for salt content), salmon and green lipped mussels.

*Bones of canned fish are edible

5% refers to offals and kidneys – these are essential for balancing the diet!
15% refers to vegetables and grains.

For vegetables, it is advisable to choose vegetables that are low in sugar such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, zucchini and cucumbers. Try to reduce the number of potatoes (too much carbs!) and carrots (high in sugar). Additionally, vegetables should be cooked and cut into smaller pieces to aid digestion!

For grains, white rice, white bread and pasta should be avoided (it increases the chances of yeast infections and many dogs are allergic to it). Instead, opt for wholesome grains such as quinoa, oats and lentils.

Myth #2: Dogs don’t need supplements

While it is true that not all supplements are necessary for a balanced meal, it is important to add in calcium to your dog’s home cooked food. The amount of calcium to add depends on your dog’s body weight, and there are lots of online resources to help calculate this. Examples of calcium include finely grounded egg-shell powder and bonemeal powder.

Optional but highly recommended supplements include:

  • For joints: rosehip powder and golden paste
  • For gut health: probiotics, greek yoghurt, kefir and cottage cheese
  • Herbs – rosemary, turmeric, oregano and cinnamon

Do check the dosages of these based on your own dog’s weight!

Myth #3: Dogs do not need oils

While oils are optional, they are a great source of omega-3 and helps with fur growth! These are the 3 common oils that are fed:

  • Fish oil
  • Coconut oil
  • Flaxseed oil – alternatively, flaxseeds can be bought and grounded prior to meals

Summary

Conclusion

While home-cooked food is better than commercial brands because you know what is going into their meals, it is important for their diet to be balanced and nutritious as well.

If you are deciding to switch their diet to home-cooked food, do start slow, especially if your dog has a sensitive gut and monitor their stools as well.

I hope that my advice has been helpful! Max says a big thank you to everyone who has read till here.

If you want to follow Max’s journey, his instagram is @thelazygoldiemax <3

Categories
Community Stories

Planning your dog’s sterilisation

To sterilise or not to sterilise, that is the question that many pet parents face at some point in time. But what happens after the decision is made?

So you’ve finally come to a conclusion after weeks and weeks of researching the pros and cons of sterilising your furry mate. The tough part’s over, right? Not necessarily!

To ensure that the surgery and recovery process is as smooth as it can get, these are some of the things that all pawrents should consider during the planning process.

When to do it?

We often hear advice like “You should spay her after a few rounds of heat” or “Let her experience motherhood first” or “Male dogs don’t need to be sterilised” etc. Then there’s the other recommendation that it’s safe to sterilise puppies from 4 months old.

Personally for me, I spoke to three vets about this issue and all of them gave me differing advice. Even within veterinary science, there are different schools of thought. Initially I had planned to spay Duoji at 6 months, then it was pushed back to 8 months cos she just looks so young and baby-ish. I didn’t have the heart to subject her to surgery. Ultimately she was spayed at 13 months old, after she reached adulthood. Incidentally, she had her first heat at around 9 months old. In a way I was reassured that she had developed properly physically before surgery.

At the end of the day, every furkid is different and there’s no right timing to do it. There are some underlying conditions, such as undescended testicles, of which sterilisation is recommended but otherwise, best to seek a trusted vet’s opinion and make an informed decision.

Where to do it?

For something as important as a surgery, it would be unwise to just waltz in to any vet clinic. I strongly recommend all pawrents to begin searching for a trustworthy and reputable vet in the early stages, before you trust them with any operation procedure.

Check online reviews or chat with other pawrents. Better still, visit them for a simple check-up or vaccination – you’d want to assess the clinic, its staff and facilities, whether it’s a good experience overall, before you make your final decision.

Location is also an important consideration. Not only would you save time travelling to and fro (or $$ for those who don’t drive), the journey would also be more comfortable for your furkid. This is particularly important for furkids who get anxious when travelling in cars. Imagine having to endure a long car ride while feeling groggy and in pain after surgery.

Sterilisation fees vary across different vet clinics as well, so if price is an area of concern, best to call up your shortlisted clinics to enquire before confirming the appointment.

Checked in at the clinic

Any add-ons?

During the procedure, your furkid will be under general anesthesia so why not plan the sterilisation surgery to coincide with procedures that you may want/need? Common ones include dental scaling, extraction of teeth etc. This way, you’ll only need to subject your furkid to general anesthesia once.

E-collar

Wearing an e-collar is a must for furkids post-surgery as it helps to prevent them from licking or disturbing their wound. Most incisions are held together by self-dissolving threads which can come apart when in contact with their saliva, putting the wound at risk of infection.

If your dog is fussy, it’s best to get him or her used to the feeling of wearing an e-collar at least 2 weeks prior to surgery. Ease them into it by keeping the initial duration short, then slowly extending the time, with plenty of treats in between, of course.

During this step, you can also take the chance to check the fit of the e-collar. The last thing you want is for your furkid to reject the e-collar or try to shake it off and risk aggravating the wound. Or worse, to find out that the e-collar doesn’t fit on the day of surgery and you have to scramble to get a replacement.

Trying on the first collar, which was too small. Duoji’s not pleased.

Grooming

Post-surgery, you won’t be able to shower your furkid for around 10-14 days so do plan a shower before the appointment day to keep your furkid clean and comfortable. I strongly recommend sending your furkid to full grooming before that – a shorter and neater fur coat can come in handy especially since you won’t be able to shower or brush their coat much during the recovery phase.

Setting up a confinement area

During recovery, your furkid would have to minimise movement and get plenty of rest. That means no running, jumping about or rough play. If you don’t already have a playpen or crate, the next best way is to set up a temporary confinement area in a spare room. This would be the space that your furkid is confined in for the next 14 days, ideally, so make it comfortable with soft blankets/pillows etc.

But if your furkid is as active as mine, then you will have to devise some additional ways to keep them safe and out of trouble. You might even want to pre-plan these stop measures and test them out first to make sure it’s foolproof.

In Duoji’s case, she was actually almost normal by the 3rd day after surgery, which means it was impossible to keep her confined for long periods of time. I ended up allowing her to have some pockets of free roaming time under close supervision from day 5 onwards but with makeshift barricades (think rows of chairs to block the stairs, leg massager and random metal tins to block the sofa etc) around the house to prevent her from accessing areas that I deem dangerous.

Trying to get past the chairs blocking the stairs.
Blocked. She eventually figured out how to open the gate so I had to use a carton of drinks to secure it.

Caregiver

After the surgery, your furkid will be weaker than usual and require extra care. Hence it’s best to have someone responsible and attentive around to take care of them round the clock, especially for the first few days. For working pawrents, that means you might have to make arrangements to work from home or plan your leave days around the surgery date.

In my case, I planned the surgery on a Wednesday so I’ll have Thursday through Sunday to take care of Duoji before I head back to work on Monday.

Just discharged.
Another reason to go for full grooming is so that the shaved leg wont look too weird.
Tired and listless

Fasting

The night before surgery, your furkid would be required to fast so do remember to stop all food and treats by the stipulated cut-off time. Don’t forget to keep the water bowl too.

Keeping record

So you and your furkid have made it through the surgery and all safety measures are in place. What’s left is to ensure that the wound heals properly. It’s very important to keep the wound clean and dry – follow the aftercare instructions given by your vet closely.

As an additional step, you might want to keep a record of your furkid’s healing progress. Check for open/split wounds or signs of infection like pus and bleeding. The easiest way is to take a photo of the wound everyday, ideally using the same device and under similar lighting conditions. This way, you can compare the progress and show your vet if you suspect anything amiss.

By day 5, Duoji’s wound looked almost closed up and the swelling and redness had gone down already. Eventually the incision wound will fade away and be covered by the belly fur. Now, almost 7 months on, I cannot even locate the scar anymore.

Hopefully the above tips are helpful to pawrents who have upcoming surgeries and are unsure of what to expect.

Until the next post!
@duojipoodle

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Community Stories

Where Should Your Pet Go When You Are On Holiday

@mr.pokee

Sometimes, you just might need a break from Singapore or just a break from work or school with a mini staycation, but you are in a dilemma as to where to bring your furry friend. Even the most popular pet influencers have to be banned from most holiday areas that are strictly out of bounds to pets. But fret not, as here are some words of advice to follow when you are troubled about holiday plans with your favourite fur-friends:

Bring It Along With You

It is good news to know that more and more staycation destinations are now pet-friendly! From huge chalets to luxurious hotels, a quick online check will list out quite a few recommended options. So if you can’t stand the thought of your pet separating from you, why not bring it on a mini getaway with you too? If you are considering a more expensive long-term stay overseas, you can also opt to bring your pet on a flight as some airlines are pet-friendly.

However do note that it is costly, and a lot of time has to be spent on logistics and ensuring that your pet will get used to the unfamiliar destination and sensations of being on a plane ride. Some countries also enforce a quarantine period, so do research properly on the destination country’s laws and regulations regarding pets.

Find A Trusted Temporary Owner

If you have little choice but to take a break without bringing your fur-friend along, a most budget-friendly option will be to find a trusted loved one to take care of your pet temporarily. However do remember to delegate responsibilities wisely, and ensure that you do not miss out on anything before your trip. The last thing you might want is your pet to suffer in the hands of someone who might not be trustworthy.

Experienced Daycares and Pet Hotels

To find someone with more relevant experience might also be a good option, despite it being more expensive. But it is always good to be careful, especially with the recent controversies about inappropriate treatment of pets at daycares and pet hotels. Looking out for good reviews online or from word-of-mouth is always advisable, and it is also good to check out the amenities and staff before making a final decision. Different places might also have different types of “schedules” or “experiences” for your pet’s stay, such as the type of food and playtime options offered to your pet, so also ensure that your pet is comfortable with such relevant experiences!

If you make a wise decision after considering all your options (and considering which option your pet is the most comfortable with), you do not need to worry that your fur-friend might feel upset that you are going on a trip. In fact, your furry companion might enjoy its time just as much as you!

Categories
Community Stories

How To Choose A Suitable Diet

@sparky_baobei

Even the best dog influencers and cat influencers out there have to be ensured a healthy diet to stay strong and active. There are a diverse variety of pet food options out there, but which types of foods are truly the best for your furkid? Here are some points to consider if you are in a dilemma over a suitable food option for your own pet:

Do your research well, and balance out certain factors

As the pet food industry continues to grow in popularity, there are now a multitude of diet options to choose from: from dry kibbles to cooked, freeze-dried and even raw food…the options are limitless. Not to mention, different commercial food brands and companies also offer their own unique benefits to stand out from their competitors.

 All diets have their own pros and cons, and owners should do their own research and balance out particular factors in order to decide what is the most suitable option. For example, cost should be an important factor since maintaining a pet’s diet for the long term is key. Other factors may also include availability of food (only available locally or overseas), brand credibility and reputation, and so on.

 Human foods and other unique treats

Owners might be tempted to give your pet a variety of foods, and that includes human foods or treats meant for other animals. However remember to do so with caution. Do a quick online check just to ensure that your pet can eat the right food; for example, human snacks and chocolates are not meant for any cat or dog! It might be tempting to prove your own pet unique as it eats a diet based on human foods, but that is not meant for every pet.

 Every pet’s diet suitability is different

That also brings us to the most significant point that summarises it all: every pet is different, and it will be a journey of trial and error before you and your pet find out what is best for them. Certain breeds, for example, might be more predisposed to having sensitive stomachs, or needing certain supplements to boost their digestion and other health conditions. So do not take it for granted that just because other furkids are having a particular diet, your own furry friend should be doing the same as well! Instead, continue to observe and try out a variety of dietary options, and you will definitely help your pet find a suitable, healthy diet soon.