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How to plan a pet-friendly wedding in Singapore

So I officially got married on 17 October!

If you live in Singapore, you would know that we are not exactly the best when it comes to available pet-friendly venues. As a crazy #dogmum, I wanted Milky to be part of this important milestone since he is part of our family.

1. DECIDE ON A VENUE

Open Farm Community has a lawn for couple to walk down during the ceremony

For us, it was pretty clear that Open Farm Community would be one of our top choice since we have been there before with Milky. We love the food, the servers were really nice to Milky and simply put, we like the place.

It was also an easy choice since we don’t have too much options out there, especially since Milky is considered a large dog and most places (even pet-friendly ones) are not excited about bigger doggo 🙁

Some Important things to check also include:

  • Where can your dog sit / be at during dinner?
  • Would it be too warm, especially for double-coated dogs?

We spoke to the wedding coordinator from Open Farm and confirmed that there will be 4 portable air-con units placed around the dining area (even though it’s outdoor).

TDLR; Visit the restaurant with your dog & see if you vibe with the place.

2. MAKE SURE YOUR GUESTS ARE OKAY WITH DOGS

Milky & Tay waiting at the end of the lawn

We created a Facebook event and invited our guests from there – we made it very clear that Milky will be present on the day and if anyone is uncomfortable, they would (unfortunately) have to un-invite themselves since we weren’t budging on anything lesser.

3. ON-THE-DAY LOGISTICS

Thank you @furriesferry!

(a) Transportation

We knew that it was going to be a super hectic day, so we arranged for Furries Ferry to transport Milky to & fro from the venue. Andrea & team were super friendly and responsive via Whatsapp – highly recommend their service!

Between Hillview <> Open Farm Community, we paid $30 in total for both trips.

(b) Person-in-charge

Assign one of your friend to be the person-in-charge of taking care of the dog. You and your partner are going to be super busy on that day, so it’s important someone is there to take care of your furkid (especially if s(he) is a big dog and needs a bit of space)!

You will need to entertain your guests & making sure everyone is still enjoying themselves, so be sure there’s someone who can help you on that.

(c) Don’t forget food and toilet break

Don’t forget his food! When we were eating, Milky was drooling on the side (even though he had his meal earlier that day). We also brought him out for his twice-a-day walks but still got someone to walk him around every now and then as he doesn’t like to be leashed up.

Also make sure that your dog is good with strangers, loud noises / crowd and always has a bowl of water to quench his/her thirst.

For Milky, we made sure that there are portable air-cons around so that he doesn’t feel too warm.

Henlo, it’s time for belly rubs

4. HAVE LOTS OF FUN

Have lots of fun! It can be a little tough to coordinate around, especially if your dog is large and you cannot just pop them on your leg and carry them around.

But it’s all worth it – I’m not sure if Milky had as much fun as us hee hee, but he sure looks happy in all the photos!

Henlo, I’m Milky and I’m a good boy
Milky getting all the attention from everyone
Milky posing like the supermodel he is
Milky tired liao + 80% drunk husbando

Hope this article has been helpful for anyone thinking to host your wedding with your furkids! x

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The Plight of the Singapore Special

What the Shelter Won’t Tell You

Lady-Mae is my first Singapore Special. We adopted her in 2012. She is my seventh dog in my life. When I was growing up, we could have unlimited number of dogs as long as they weren’t a nuisance to the neighbours.

As an experienced dog owner and handler, I did something totally out of the ordinary when it came to choosing Lady-Mae. I went purely with my instincts. I didn’t research about owning a rescue dog, I just went ahead to get one. (If you’re a new dog owner, I highly suggest that you speak to many fellow Singapore Special owners. A variety of owners and not just one type of owner. It’ll give you a more realistic view of this dog. Please do not follow my example.)

As time went by and I got involved in the dog community, I realised that many people struggled with their Sg Special because either their dog wasn’t properly socialised or they did not get a suitable trainer. So here’s a list of 12 things that I think will help you to decide if the Singapore Special or SS is for you and if you’re up to the challenge.

1. They are the toughest dog to train, even harder than a husky: Most trainers will tell you the Husky is the hardest dog to train. Well, move aside Husky because the Singapore Special tops that list. Singapore Specials don’t care about anyone. They are not bred to want to listen to you. They are bred to solve problems on their own. They do not do well with a wishy-washy handler. Not being able to make a decision on the fly is going to make you be a weakling in the Singapore Special’s eyes. Once you’re seen as a weakling, they will exploit that. I often tell fellow owners that making a bad decision is better than not making one at all.

2. You’ll need to find a GOOD balance trainer: A good balance trainer means a trainer who knows how to use Positive Reinforcement and knows how to teach corrections in a fair and just manner. Singapore Specials are sensitive dogs. They do not do well with high aversive training and neither do they do well solely on Positive Reinforcements only.

3. Singapore Specials need a firm owner: Being firm these days is being labeled a dictator. On the contrary. Being firm means that when you say NO to your dog, be prepared to say NO another one thousand times before your dog will take you seriously.

4. Critical Learning Period For every dog, not just the Singapore Special, the critical learning period is from 3 to 5months. During this time, if a dog is intentionally socialized well to the environment, people, and the lifestyle of the owner, it will grow up to be a balanced dog. However, this is highly critical for the Singapore Special. Missing out on this window creates many of the behavioural issues that the dog will carry through its life. The only reason why the dog becomes good is because of good management. So be prepared to manage your dog but it doesn’t mean you will see the problem behaviour go away.

5. Socialising your dog is a crazy long list over a crazy long time: For many Singapore Specials, they find it hard to adapt to the urban lifestyle that we live and move in. They need to have POSITIVE experiences from the time they are rescued all the way until they have matured adults (4 to 5years old). Socialisation is not going to be a ONE-time affair. These dogs need the consistent positive experience. Socialization isn’t bringing a dog to a dog park and letting it do what it wants. Socialization is an intentional affair with a specific goal.

6. Knowing who you are is critical: Self-awareness is probably the one thing that most SS owners struggle with. So before you bring one home, know what makes you tick. Know how you make decisions, what needs you have so that you can make decisions. And be comfortable in your own skin. E.g. some people need TIME to make a decision. If that’s you, then be aware that if your dog reacts, you should already have a backup plan because there will not be time for you to deliberate. Your Singapore Special is going to know you before the first day is over. And it’s going to know what your weaknesses are and how it can exploit you. E.g. if you’re afraid that the dog will bark its lungs out and get a complaint from a neighbour, the Singapore Special is going to bark the heck of its lungs out because it’s going to push every weakness button. It wants to see which of our weaknesses it can exploit.

7. It needs leadership: Leadership has become a nasty and dirty word in the dog world today. It’s sad because Singapore Special needs a person who is able to provide them clarity. These dogs need someone to give them clear definitions of what is and what isn’t acceptable behaviour. And they need someone to give them clear guidance on how to achieve acceptable behaviour. Failure to provide this will result in a Singapore Special that is highly fearful, reactive, or aggressive.

8. The Singapore Special is wild at heart: I think too many people downplay this trait in the Singapore Special. They are very feral. Almost wolf-like. But they are dogs. They will be eager to please if you can provide leadership. You’ll never be able to domesticate the Singapore Special but it doesn’t mean they cannot be in a home. I always felt guilty for adopting Lady-Mae because I felt like I was caging her by adopting her. It took me 8 years to be able to say that my rescue dog is beginning to be more like a dog that has been carefully bred for centuries.

9. Singapore Specials need an outlet for problem-solving: Because these dogs have evolved to problem-solve daily, they need to be active participants in their training. One of the things that I do is WAIT for the dog to offer me a behaviour that I find acceptable. I don’t give it a command. This is what we call Free Shaping in dog training terminology. Eg. I will wait for the dog to calm down and not jump on me before putting the leash on. I will not tell the dog to sit etc. I will wait until the dog is calm and gives me eye contact before I reward the dog. Having fostered and helped so many dogs and families, Free shaping is highly integral for a Singapore Special. It keeps them engaged. It makes them think about what you want and that taps into their instincts to problem solve. Know how to work with their instincts not against it.

10. They need to roam free: Every Singapore Special yearns to be off the leash. It’s sad that many owners aren’t able to train their dogs to the point where their dogs can be off the lead and ignore people and dogs and just be engaged with their owners no matter what happens. So if you ever adopt one, be prepared to put aside EVERY free time you have and work with the dog until you can get here. Your dog will thank you daily.

11. They are purpose-driven: Singapore Specials are not the usual pet dog. If you’re looking for one, be prepared to go to a trainer who is adept at knowing how to train working breeds. They need a job. Some Sg Specials are really adept at obedience work. Some are great with tricks. Some are awesome with people, (yes there are some Sg Specials who are). And then, there are some who are like my dog, Lady-Mae who enjoys helping people and animals in distress. It’s going to take you at least a year or two before discovering that your dog’s purpose is. So be open minded, go try many activities. Lady-Mae and I have tried, Obedience Competition style training, Tricks, Pet therapy, Agility, Lure coursing. All these flopped terribly and miserably. My dog just stood there and looked at me like she was bored. Until we tried Nosework. Lady-Mae enjoys the search especially for an animal that’s in distress. She enjoys it so much that you can’t even lure her away with Mcnuggets!

12. They are resilient, have great perseverance, and are highly intelligent: Many times when I see descriptions of a Singapore Special up for adoption, nothing that is on that paragraph is what you’re really going to get. Singapore Special is a highly resilient dog, meaning it can withstand a lot of psychological challenges and it’s going to use that with you throughout its lifetime. The SS is also a dog with great perseverance hence they might look very stubborn. However, if you are able to persevere together with them, you will not only gain their love, loyalty, and devotion but their utmost respect. Lastly, the Singapore Special is highly intelligent. I think people do not give enough credit to this dog. Lady-Mae hasn’t ceased to surprise me every day with her ability to offer an innovative solution.

The Singapore Special requires us to put their needs way above ours for a very long time. Adopting one will consume you. It will take up a lot of your time, money, and energy daily for a good 3 to 4years before you’re able to see a highly reliable dog. That’s if you put in the work daily. I have not met a SS owner who said their adoption journey was easy.

Every SS owner will tell you how hard they worked to get where they are. I worked hard but I know of owners who had to work much harder than I did. If you are still up to adopt one, then, welcome to the club. You chose a dog that will not just change your life but it will force you to grow you in ways you never imagined.

Adopting a Singapore Special is not for the faint-hearted. It’s for people who are prepared to take on a self-development journey.

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Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 2/6: Bedding (3 Wood Shavings)

Wood shavings are the subject of many a passionate debate among guinea pig lovers in Singapore. Before we get into the contentious bits, let’s start with the cold, hard, facts. Wood shavings come in the following common varieties: aspen, cedar, pine, rubber, and a mixture of wood types. Some are safe, some are not.

Cedar and pine naturally contain phenols that smell great to humans but are harmful to the delicate respiratory systems of the beloved guinea pig. The consensus seems to be that cedar, whether heat treated or not, are toxic to guinea pigs. Thus, only heat treated or kiln dried pine shavings are safe options for guinea pig bedding. Aspen shavings, on the other hand, do not contain harmful phenols and is commonly marketed adjacent to small animal paper bedding in pet stores. No information currently exists on the safety levels of rubber tree shavings for guinea pigs, so steer clear to stay safe. In summary, only aspen or heat treated pine shavings are appropriate bedding types for guinea pigs. 

Pro tip: Wooden hideys and chew toys should also only be made from guinea pig friendly, pesticide-free wood.


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Where can I get wood shavings in Singapore?

The easiest option would be to purchase it at your local pet store, but those shavings come in small bags and are often similar in pricing to small animal paper bedding. The more cost effective option would be to buy wood shavings from companies that sell bedding to horses. That being said, be prepared to buy a comparatively large amounts at one go. The Equine Sanctuary caters to small animal owners and are able to sell a minimum of approximately 18kg of compressed wood shavings at a time (a lot less than a horse owner would need). This is still a significant amount for guinea pigs and can last for a few weeks depending on the size of your enclosure. My favourite brand is Bluefrog as it is comprised of heat treated pine shavings that are absorbent and almost dust-free.


Factors to take into consideration when selecting wood shavings…

  1. Do the shavings contain a mix of potentially dangerous wood types? 
  2. Are the shavings dusty?
  3. Do I have an appropriate place to store the bedding?

Make sure the wood-shavings you select is indeed safe for guinea pigs as many brands contain a mixture of different types of wood. Many pet stores also sell wood pellets or compressed wood bedding products marketed for small animals. These tend to come from unknown wood-origins and break down into dust when they come into contact with liquids. This concept also applies to wood-based cat litter — steer clear. It goes without saying that sawdust is also an absolute no go. 

Pro tip: Create an easy to clean “kitchen area” for hay to keep the rest of the guinea pig enclosure relatively hay-free.

I love using heat treated pine shavings as, in my opinion, they are immensely more absorbent, odour friendly, and cost effective than the bedding types we have explored thus far. That being said, guinea pigs “popcorn” and do “zoomies” when they are happy. This can kick up bedding, so ensure that the sides of your enclosure are high enough to contain their adorable antics. Build or purchase a C&C (cube and chloroplast) cage with a height of at least 20cm. You can try your hand at DIY-ing or contact The Modern Guinea with your preferred cage specifications. 

Don’t skimp on the amount of wood shavings you provide, I would recommend a minimum depth of 10cm of bedding. Many youtube videos filmed overseas proclaim that with enough depth, wood shavings only need to be changed out once a week. However, in Singapore, no bedding is likely to stay clean without daily maintenance — remove soiled areas regularly and do a full change every 7-10 days.

Pro tip: Guinea pigs tend to pee and poop under their hideys, corners of their cage, and where they eat. Spot clean those areas daily!

Instagram: Mapetitemenagerie

Another important consideration to make before choosing to go with wood shavings is whether you have adequate and appropriate indoor space to safely store wood shavings without it growing mold or harbouring insects. In most countries, buying in bulk is the way to go, but in Singapore, this increases the chances of mite infestations and fungal growth. I, unfortunately, learned this the hard way and now never buy more than a month’s worth of bedding or hay in one go. If you ever do face infestations, diatomaceous earth is a natural and effective way of deterring insects from multiplying. You can purchase diatomaceous earth locally at https://denutrients.com/ Please avoid letting your guinea pigs inhale diatomaceous earth.

Health tip: Use Revolution (Selamactin) on guinea pigs to treat mites and mange at 10mg/kg. Use this handy website for dosage calculations. https://www.guinealynx.info/dose_calculator.html


Why do so many youtube videos feature guinea pigs overseas using sawdust and other “unsafe” bedding products? 

Guinea pigs were first domesticated by the Incas 3000 years ago, but animal husbandry practices have continually evolved and improved as information becomes more readily available. We learn and adapt! Secondly, guinea pigs in Singapore tend to have weaker respiratory systems than their overseas counterparts, thus ensuring that their environment is relatively dust-free is paramount to keeping them healthy. I can only hypothesize that much like other common domestic animals in our compact city-state, our pets tend to have a narrow lineage and are consequently more genetically prone to certain illnesses. 


Some guinea pig owners in Singapore argue that all wood shavings are harmful and can cause respiratory issues. Given that our local furry friends are prone to such issues, you may choose to be extra cautious. However, I am of the opinion that if you do your research and ensure that the wood shavings you select do follow the above criteria, you’re in the green.

Ammonia buildup on fleece can cause issues, pee pads run the risk of being ingested, all materials have their pros and cons. Needless to say, wood shavings have their flaws too — some guinea pigs may develop allergies or be extra sensitive to certain types of wood. Observe, adapt, and don’t be afraid to mix it up!

Instagram: Mapetitemenagerie

I hope these articles help you and your guinea pigs find the perfect bedding combination. Stay tuned for the next article where I will cover a few more alternative bedding options before moving on to our next topic — Everything You Need to Know about Guinea Pigs in Singapore Part 3/6: Environment. 


To review the basics go to: https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbasics/
To read more about guinea pig bedding in Singapore go to:
https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbedding1/
https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbedding2/

As usual, none of this content is sponsored.
Come say hello on our instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/mapetitemenagerie

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Everything You Need to Know about Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 2/6: Bedding (2 Pee Pads)

Still with me? Alright! let’s continue our discourse on how popular guinea pig bedding options perform in Singapore. To recap:


I recommend…

  1. Fleece or fleece lined products
  2. Pee pads
  3. Some types of wood shavings

In the previous article, we discussed why small animal paper bedding, newspaper, and shredded recycled paper are terrible options and explored several great fleece options. Please head over to: https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbedding1/ if you don’t know why. 

Also, if you’d like a cheatsheet on guinea pig care in Singapore, please refer to the first article of the series: https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbasics/


Bonding session @mapetitemenagerie

A popular bedding option for guinea pig owners in Singapore are non-scented pee pads generally marketed for potty training dogs. Easy, convenient, and relatively economically sound, pee pads will keep guinea pigs dryer and are easy to change out once or twice a day. You will find many brands available on: online giants like Lazada, Shopee, Qoo10, online pet stores like The Modern Guinea and Perromart, and almost any physical pet shop like Pet Lovers Centre. They come in various shapes and sizes, but most guinea pig owners prefer the 45x60cm dimension for adequate coverage of their guinea pig enclosures and easy removal of heavily soiled areas. 

Pro tip: Pee pads are a great temporary solution for sick guinea pigs.

Prices range from around 8-15SGD per pack of 50 disposable 45x60cm large pee pads depending on absorbency, material, brand, and store. On the cheaper end, the pee pads are not as absorbent and may not completely be leak-proof. If you are extremely vigilant about changing the pads or are only planning to use them for short periods of time, this could be a viable option. However, for a few extra dollars, you could opt for higher quality pee pads that do not leak; a reasonable price would be around 12-13SGD/pack. The higher-end options sometimes come infused with charcoal and are black in colour — some owners prefer this as it helps mitigate unpleasant odours. However, I recommend sticking with regular, white pee pads, as urine colour is often the first indicator of a potential bladder problem. I will elaborate on this topic in Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 6/6 Health. 

Truffle after getting spayed @mapetitemenagerie

That being said, disposable pee pads are terrible for the environment and may not actually be cheaper in the long run. A 70x140cm or 2x4grid guinea pig enclosure (suitable for 2 guinea pigs), would require 6 overlapping 45x60cm pee pads; one pack of 50 will last give or take a week. This would mean that pee pads for a pair of guinea pigs will cost approximately 650SGD a year (52 weeks, 12.5SGD/pack). The price of a Guineadad isn’t looking too bad now, wouldn’t you agree?

Did You Know: Guinea pigs live an average of 5-8 years. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the oldest guinea pig lived for almost 15 years!

Pricing aside, disposable pee pads take an average of 500 years to degrade in a landfill. They are very convenient, but much like any other non-recyclable material, will negatively impact the well-being of our planet. Reusable pee pads made for puppies is certainly an alternative albeit not one that is popular among guinea pig owners. Perhaps, this is because fleece options mentioned in the last article require similar levels of maintenance. If you decide to try using reusable pee pads to line your guinea pig enclosure, please share your experiences with me! 

Another strike against pee pads is that, as I mentioned before, guinea pigs chew on everything. They will undoubtedly take a bite, and plastic can cause all kinds of ruckus when ingested. I have yet to hear of pee pads causing fatalities, but keep your eyes peeled to ensure that chomping on the sides of pee pads does not become your guinea pig’s past time. Some guinea pigs also enjoy burrowing under pee pads which defeats the purpose of using them at all. 

Popcorn on a Guineadad @mapetitemenagerie

One way to combat this is by using a combination of fabrics and pee pads; experiment with layers of fleece, microfibre noodle bath rugs, and towels atop pee pads. Alternatively, forgo the pee pads altogether and go with a combination of fabrics and a reusable leak-proof bottom layer like the pre-made options I mentioned here. The options are endless, so it is now up to you to decide what works best for your lifestyle and your guinea pigs. 

Next up is my personal favourite form of bedding but also the most polarizing among guinea pig owners in Singapore — wood shavings. Stay tuned as we delve into the pros and cons of wood shavings in the next article! 


Meanwhile, come say hi on our instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/mapetitemenagerie.com

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3 simple ways to keep your mojo when you’re training your dog

HOW YOU SEE TRAINING MATTERS

When you think about training your dog, what comes into mind? For many of us, it’s a list of things to check off. Can I suggest that while that’s useful because it helps us be goal-orientated but that’s also VERY UNHELPFUL. Why? Because it becomes GOAL centred and we should GROWTH centred.

What is GROWTH? Growth doesn’t necessarily only mean our dogs can exhibit a behaviour. Growth takes into the account that we are considering other factors like our dog’s age, it’s emotional maturity, it’s cognitive capability, and its capacity for learning. If our dog isn’t hungry to learn, there’s no point in making a lesson a lesson.

Being growth centred means we take a more wholistic approach to development. We measure the dog’s response instead of the result. We measure our response with our dogs as well. We look into our development as much as we care about our dog’s.

WHAT YOU MEASURE MATTERS

Fellow dog owners have asked if I ever get tired or nonchalant about training. My answer is NEVER. My secret is because I don’t measure my dog on the response. I measure my dog on her overall ability to handle life’s pressures and her ability to RECOVER from those stressors. E.g. Lady-Mae is sensitive to sounds and vibrations, to this day, you can see her get startled. I’m not measuring her on her response. What I look for is how she deals with it. Even though you can still see her body react, she brushes it off and goes about enjoying the environment. That’s GROWTH.

The feedback that we receive from our dogs is a CONVERSATION, not an indication of how great or bad you are as a handler. If your dog has its tail tucked, stop fussing. It is sharing with you that it’s afraid of something. When that happens, I usually look around to see possible triggers. If there’s none, I just ignore it and continue what we’re doing. This is how it will sound like if the dog could speak:
Dog : (Tail tucked) “I’m scared.”
Human: (Look around assess the situation, calmly continue the walk) “I know you’re scared but nothing her to be scared, I’ve got you.”

Stop measuring the response and start measuring the recovery time your dog takes to offer the desired behaviour. And, START having a non-verbal conversation rather than reacting to your dog.

KNOWING YOURSELF WELL MATTERS

Too many dog owners have very little self-awareness. By this I mean, you have got to know what motivates you and how to motivate yourself. For example, I enjoy partnering with people to work on a common goal. I enjoy being able to consider risks and find the best options in training. I enjoy things better when I have clarity and I enjoy spontaneity and variety.

If you read what I enjoy, you’ll quickly realise that I won’t make a very good dog trainer because dog training is about consistency (repetitions) and being predictable.

When I adopted Lady-Mae, I thought about what kind of a dog I would like her to be in the midst of people who did not like dogs. My motivation to raise her to be a balanced dog came out of “I want other people to enjoy my dog too.” It wasn’t because she could make my life easier but it was the benefit of my community.

The second way I keep myself motivated is always evaluating the risks and options I have during the training process. Sometimes, this can look like I’m always changing my mind. If I’m training for others, I make it a point to communicate my intentions and why I made a change in decision.

The most important thing for me is CLARITY. Without this, I’m often frustrated. So, when I adopted Lady-Mae, I was constantly reframing my goals until I had clarity of the kind of dog I wanted to raise. My WHY gives me emotional clarity and helps me to be focused on Lady-Mae’s growth rather and goals. It helps me to also not compare myself to other handlers and keeps me focused on what Lady-Mae’s strengths are.

Lastly, I don’t have a habit of training my dog for more than 5 mins at a time, because I enjoy variety, I work on a few things that are related in the developmental process. And in order to beat the bore of predictability and repetitions which drains me, I don’t have a fix schedule on when I train the dog. I also don’t have a fix goal that I need to check off each day. I keep it fluid within the week. Instead of having daily goals, I have a weekly one that I work towards. That helps me manage my weaknesses while leveraging on my strengths.

So the next time you’re struggling with your mojo, you may have to have clarity about your GROWTH plan. Or you may have to change what you’re measuring or you may have to take time to know yourself better because it could be what’s hindering you from helping your dog unleash its potential.

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Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 2/6: Bedding (1 Fleece)

If you made it this far, I’m assuming you are mildly sadistic and/or the kind of person who likes doing housework. If you haven’t read Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore Part 1/6: The Basics, I recommend you take a gander at https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbasics/ and decide if you are seriously up to the monumental responsibility of owning guinea pigs.

To recap, this series of articles address the unique challenges of caring for a guinea pig in Singapore. For a more general understanding of guinea pigs, refer to the links in the first article. Today, we will start exploring the second of the topics below:


  1. The Basics — a quick summary
  2. Bedding — how popular options perform in Singapore’s humidity
  3. Environment — keeping guinea pigs healthy & comfortable
  4. Sourcing Food & Products — buy stuff without breaking the bank
  5. Vegetables — local produce that guinea pigs love
  6. Health — common illnesses in Singapore and how to deal with them

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Sunny Singapore is super hot and humid in comparison to most places where guinea pigs are popular as pets. So, when reading or watching videos about appropriate bedding, keep in mind that things will not dry as quickly here and will easily turn icky (imagine peed on poop). Also, mold and fungal growth is a huge problem; this is rarely an issue in colder, dryer climates. 

The following are the most commonly used types of bedding for guinea pigs around the world: fleece or fleece-lined products, pee pads, bath mats, wood shavings, paper-based cat litter, small animal paper bedding, newspaper, and shredded recycled paper. I’ll be discussing the pros and cons of the above list with regards to Singapore’s weather and the products’ availabilities in our locale.


I do not recommend…

  1. small animal paper bedding
  2. newspaper
  3. shredded recycled paper

Though easy to find in pet shops, small animal paper bedding, most commonly used for hamsters, are chock full of dust and can often lead to fatal upper respiratory illnesses for guinea pigs. It does not dry very quickly, so your guinea pig may end up sleeping on soggy, urine drenched, mush. Plus, it’s super expensive when you consider the quantity needed for a guinea pig enclosure and not at all effective at controlling odour. 

Though readily available and virtually free, newspaper and recycled paper, are full of chemicals that you do not want your guinea pig ingesting or inhaling. If you put something in a guinea pig pen, expect it to be chewed on. Lead, a common ingredient found on printed paper is toxic to guinea pigs and will lead to all kinds of nasty complications that can be fatal and will result in expensive veterinary bills. It’s not worth it! Plus, it’s also ineffective in absorbing urine or controlling odour and will give you dirty, stinky guinea pigs who have been sleeping in a cocktail of their own urine and faeces. If you really want the smell of guinea pig poop permeating through your home, there are other ways my strange friend. 


I recommend…

  1. Fleece or fleece lined products
  2. Pee pads (jump ahead to pee pads here)
  3. Some types of wood shavings

Photo credit: https://guineadad.com/

Fleece has recently become the go-to choice of bedding for guinea pig lovers around the world. Eco-friendly, soft, and wicking, guinea pigs and their owners love fleece. However, in Singapore’s humidity, fabrics dry infinitely slower than in most other climates. Fleece does not perform quite as well here as it is described to by most guinea pig aficionados on the web; expect to change out fleece bedding twice as often as otherwise recommended. Keep in mind that fleece is warm, and Singapore is hot. Our goal is to keep guinea pigs cool, dry, and clean.

Pro tip: Guinea pigs tend to poop under hideys and next to their food so add extra “protection” around those areas for easier spot-cleaning.

That being said, fleece is still a great option to consider. Guineadad liners are the most popular pre-made fleece solution with a wicking top layer, an absorbent middle, and a waterproof bottom layer. Alternatively, similar pre-made fleece liners can be bought on Taobao and Amazon. Local small businesses in Singapore who make adorable fleece hideys and tunnels for guinea pigs can also make customizable full-sized cage liners. Contact them at Snugglebutts and The Maris Crafts.

Pro tip: Fold over Guineadad pockets on the 2×4 liners as they can get quite damp and nasty in Singapore’s humidity!

Photo Credit: instagram.com/thefoodiepiggies

The second fleece-based bedding option is a D.I.Y. combination of a layer of fleece on pee pads, towels, or on a waterproof liner. The best place to get large swaths in Singapore is Spotlight. I would recommend going down to the store at Plaza Singapura to check out all the adorable designs and select the amount you would like. To make things more complicated, there are several types of fleece. In short, make sure to choose anti-pill fleece. For more information, read this. Alternatively, Snugglebutts and The Maris Crafts make various sizes of fleece mats and pads that you can easily mix, match, and switch out when dirty.

Pro tip: Wash fleece at least 3x before first use to “unlock” its inherent wicking properties. Also, NEVER use dryer sheets or softeners!

There is no secret formula to finding the best bedding type for guinea pigs. Your ideal setup will come down to your personal cleaning habits and preferences, and you will most likely have multiple types of bedding at hand.

Learn more on the next article in the series as we continue to explore types of bedding and how they perform in Singapore! https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbedding2/


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When is the right time to get a dog?

I have always liked dogs and wanted one but I knew I wasn’t ready for all the commitment: monetary, time and mentally when I was younger. 

  1. Commitment: Monetary and Time 

I’d say what most, obviously myself do not expect is the amount of time and effort needed to put into having a dog. 
What I thought was simple: 
Money for food, necessities, treats of course, grooming and vet.
Time to feed, to walk, to bathe and to train. 
Be mentally prepared for all these to be a norm once you have a dog.

But what I didn’t think enough was how exactly and how much time and how much you need to compromise with your own time/schedule (depending on what age/temperament of your dog).

  • I had to, as much as possible settle Dusty’s needs before my own if it could be put on hold as I do not want to bother my family even if had to travel more and rush, I would do it myself. 
  • Training wasn’t something that I thought was needed or necessary other than Project Adore Obedience Training. What I had in mind was providing the dog a comfortable life, under a roof with fresh food and walks >= x2 daily.

    But training is also important in my opinion, to improve both our lives as we coexist under one roof and to set boundaries. Not only that but also be a responsible dog owner and not cause unnecessary problems to people living around us. 
  • Vet visits are definitely a need for annual vaccination and check ups but other than that it depends on your dog’s health. Money has to be set aside for emergency and I’d say always prepare for the worst (a bit kiasi).

    You could also look up into buying pet insurance for your pet as it will help ease the vet bills if anything were to happen. 

At the end of 2018(when I was 20), I knew I was ready for the commitments and started looking up on all the shelters I could find through web and social medias. It took much consideration and courage to finally take the first step in filling up an adoption application.

  1. Picking the RIGHT dog, not what you want but what you can handle with you and your family’s lifestyle. 

Of course including us, we wanted the nicest, cutest, and a fun dog.
But I knew that wasn’t the right way to look for one.

  • Are you active or more laid-back and chill? 
    I know my family and I wasn’t that active, so I decided that a lower energy dog will fit perfectly into my family. DON’T pick a dog that fits a lifestyle that you aspire to have. But pick one that fits your current lifestyle and work towards it. 
  • Who will be living together with the dog? 
    Make sure everyone in the family as well as the dog is okay with one another, especially if you have kids and the elderly in the house. 
  • Is the dog skittish/shy or aggressive/fearful?
    If the dog that you pick has any of these behaviours, just get ready to have to spend more time and (maybe) money to help your dog gain the confidence and to improve. 

Slightly more than a year of having Dusty with us, I wish I did know more (experience wise) about dog handling. 

  1. Get experience on how to handle a dog

Before adopting, what goes through my mind was what’s so difficult about having a dog? It just has to eat, sleep, bathe, walk, shit and pee. Thinking of it is so easy than having to experience it not for one or two days but till the end of their lives it’s a different aspect. 

  • Get a first hand experience as a volunteer or fosterer on how and what is it like to handle not just good and easy dogs but also skittish, shy, fearful and aggressive dogs. And from there you know what kind of dogs you can handle and live with for the next 10-15 years.
  • Reach out to dog owners and get to know more about their experiences with their dog.

So this sums up my thoughts on what I wish I had known.
Hope it was insightful for those who are planning on getting your first dog but is still unsure on what to expect! 

Do share with us your concerns or any experiences that you didn’t see coming with your first dog in the comments below! So that we can learn or at least have an idea on what to do if something similar happens to any of us! đŸ™‚

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Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 1/6: The Basics

So you want a guinea pig. Hamsters, rabbits, cats, dogs, and humans are not your thing (or you already have them), and you’d like to add guinea pig to your list of dependents. Let me introduce, horrify, and enlighten you to the joys and challenges of owning guinea pigs in Singapore.

With temperatures soaring over 30°C and humidity levels averaging at 85%, we humans have learned to adapt pretty well to the tropical weather in our bustling city-state. Guinea pigs, however, are native to the Andes Mountains of South America and thrive in climates of 18-24°C.

An easy search of basic guinea pig care provides endless information on how to provide for these cute little rodents, but most of this material come from owners in Europe or the U.S. Owning guinea pigs in Singapore come with a unique set of challenges. In this series of articles, we will explore the following topics:


  1. The Basics — a quick summary
  2. Bedding — how popular options perform in Singapore’s humidity
  3. Environment — keeping guinea pigs healthy & comfortable
  4. Sourcing Food & Products — buy stuff without breaking the bank
  5. Vegetables — local produce that guinea pigs love
  6. Health — common illnesses in Singapore and how to deal with them

First and foremost, let’s review the basics. A plethora of information about guinea pig care is a click away online, so here’s a quick summary:

Guinea pigs…

  1. must have hay at all times to keep their teeth and gut in tip-top condition
  2. should be given timothy hay based pellets
  3. are sociable animals and must live in pairs or more
  4. do not produce Vitamin C and need vegetables or supplements daily
  5. require adequate space (i.e. 2×4 grids/70cm x 140cm for 2 guinea pigs)
  6. cannot be toilet trained and require a lot of cleaning
  7. require a cavy savvy vet when sick

Other topics will be more thoroughly explored, meanwhile, take a look at these videos and other videos on these channels for more information on basic guinea pig care:

A final note for now…

Guinea pigs are not easy pets, especially given the specialized care they require in Singapore. They are more work than a well trained dog and are expensive to upkeep as their food requirements are not native to Asia. Plus, veterinarians who are well-versed in guinea pig medicine are rare in Singapore, and those medical bills add up!

Pet stores typically do not carry adequate caging requirements nor are they well-versed in cavy husbandry. In other words, don’t trust anyone who’s trying to sell a guinea pig to you — do your research! Do not be fooled by their adorable faces; guinea pigs are actually poop machines in disguise. Be prepared to clean up after them every. single. day.

If you are undeterred by all of the above and still want these little fluffy bundles of poop in your life, give a pair a second chance by adopting! Please do not support backyard breeders or pet mills (where pet shops get their animals). When you’re ready, head on over to the next article, Everything You Need to Know About Guinea Pigs in Singapore — Part 2/6: Bedding (1). https://contributors.pawjourr.com/guineapigbedding1/


For more information and to adopt a guinea pig, please visit Guinea Pig Rescue Singapore: https://www.facebook.com/guineapigrescuesg/

Consider looking at this online store for Guinea Pig approved paraphenelia: https://modernguinea.com/

*I am not associated with or sponsored by any of the above organizations


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What are Singapore Specials like and are they right for you

Every person getting a new dog, be it first-time or experienced dog owners, would arrive at this question at some point during their decision-making process: What breed of dog should I get? There are the usual pedigree breeds that have been labelled as “family-friendly” like our adorable Golden Retrievers and “easy to train” Maltipoo cross-breeds which we have crossed paths with during one of our evening leisure walks. However, when one considers between adoption and getting their new furkid from a known breeder, a major deterrent against opting for adoption is the lack of information on the temperaments of Singapore Specials (SS) (our affectionate name for our kampong dogs, also known to many as “mongrels”, “mixed-breeds” or “strays”). 

As a first-time owner, I too hesitated on adopting a dog because I simply did not know much about SS. It seemed like an easier option to buy a pedigree dog whose temperaments, quirks, prey drive, receptivity to training was already analysed and readily available on the Internet. On the other hand, searching up “Singapore Specials/mongrels” on Google left me with few to no results about the things to expect from owning an SS. Thus, I finally decided to write about my experiences with owning an SS and behaviours characteristic to SS in hopes that this article will raise more awareness about our beloved local dogs and many potential owners will consider adopting a Special as their future companion, and best friend.

Before diving into the particularities of Singapore Specials, I felt that I should introduce myself first so you could put a name and face to this article. I’m Sabrina and this is my best friend, and “grandchild” (according to my parents), Kyla.

Kyla at 6 months old and still a compulsive worry queen

Kyla is nearly 7 months old and my family had adopted her from Mercylight in July 2020. While I am currently abroad for my undergraduate studies, I had spent most of my days in Singapore prior to my departure caring for Kyla and thus I will be sharing my experiences from that period (currently, my family is caring for her and I receive regular updates on her growth).  In the process of writing this article, I had also spoken to other SS owners to compare my experiences with them so as to give a more accurate representation of SS as a “breed”. Of course, given that SS were never specially bred for any purpose as was the case for many pedigree dogs, their personalities may differ from what I write so that should be kept in mind when you read my article. 

So without further ado, what are Singapore Specials like?

Past experiences can mean fearfulness and skittishness

While some SS may have been rescued when they were only a few days old, many others are often introduced to shelter life and exposure to humans after months or years of roaming and scavenging for food. Having spent their entire lives hiding from humans and sleeping near construction sites or fields, this means that they have never experienced living with humans in apartments, eating from bowls, being touched nor walking on leash. Naturally, SS which have not socialised properly are more fearful and resistant to a change in the environment. While I was fortunate enough to have adopted Kyla when she was still very young and thus could socialise her to new environments fairly easily, many other SS owners have to restart the socialisation process. This usually implies slowly introducing “unnatural” elements to them, even the smallest things like the TV or rooms in the house. One SS owner had shared with me that her SS was still very skittish even after four months of being with her family and had stayed in the same room for almost two months. It takes constant repetition, exposure to the same environments over and over again for Specials to recognise that these spaces are safe. Adopting an SS means harnessing that mountain of patience to go slow, and to reassure them that humans, other dogs and even their reflection in the food bowl is nothing to be afraid of.

Be prepared for a high prey-driven dog

See that rat that just ran past the pavement? The flock of birds minding their business on the grass patch next to you? You better hold your leash tight. Singapore Specials are your diamonds in the rough when you consider them as hunting dogs. Over decades of surviving on their own, they have acquired an acute sense of smell and sight valuable for sourcing out food. It is in their nature to hunt down birds and other small animals. Even Kyla, who never had to scour for food on the streets, was very attracted to rats and birds that she spotted on our walks. She would whine and tug very strongly on the leash when we prevented her from going closer to the rat hidden in the grass. On one walk, Kyla had found a dead flattened rat on our road and picked it up like it was a precious chew (and you can guess who had to forcefully take the rat from her). The point is, expect that SS have a high prey drive and if you ever thought of letting that rabbit next door be her new best friend, you should probably think twice. 

Reactivity and the importance of training

A similar point to how past experiences have shaped the personalities of Singapore Specials, another common characteristic to note is that SS have the tendency to be more reactive and sensitive to new people and dogs. In defining “reactivity”, I refer to behaviours such as growling, barking, and defensive stances. While Kyla is more sensitive towards people (barking) and very playful around other dogs, other SS I have met are reactive to the latter and easy-going with people. Then again, there are some Specials that are friendly to all and have no problems with interactions, so it may not be set in their personalities after all. Nevertheless, given the fact that they are generally more fearful and skittish, it would be a good idea to invest time into obedience training sessions to learn to manage their reactivity and to desensitise them to new environments. Group training sessions are useful as they allow you to practice managing SS around other dogs-in-training which provides a controlled environment for correcting their reactive behaviours.

happy girl passed her first obedience training!

Highly intelligent thinkers

Singapore Specials are very intelligent. Period. Their resilience cultivated from their survival instincts ultimately means that they are determined to crack that puzzle to obtain that bonus treat. It took Kyla approximately a month to figure out how to push the baby gate open to let herself up to the second and third floors of our house, and she was able to recognise her reflection in the mirror in our living room after one house visit (back when we were still in the process of adopting her). However, because SS are able to solve challenges fairly quickly, it is also important to engage them intellectually to ensure that they exercise their mental capacities. This may mean making them work for treats and spending some time engaging in challenging play (personally, I play hide and seek with Kyla to do so). 

Your best bodyguard, a fiercely loyal buddy

Last but not the least, SS are your residential guard dogs. Their sensitivity to new environments is also a valuable asset that can be harnessed. Perhaps it is the fact that they are eternally grateful to you for giving them a furever home and a lifetime supply of tasty treats, but Specials will reward you with their unwavering loyalty after they gain trust in you. One day, I was waiting at the void deck for my family to buy dinner with Kyla. She laid down 1m in front of me and was calm when people walked past us and went about their day. However, when one man had approached me to ask about her, Kyla immediately stood up and barked at him, always putting herself between me and the man. This was when I had realised that Kyla’s barking was due to the fact that she primarily wanted to protect and not to display dominance and aggression. You can therefore say that SS are amazing guard dogs, and their alleged “hostility” should not be taken for aggression but their strong loyalty to their owners. 

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If you have read till this point, thank you for your support and I sincerely hope this article has helped one or two potential dog owners to make an informed decision regarding their new family member. All I wish for is that this article sheds more light on the temperaments of Singapore Specials so that we remove the stigma regarding stray dogs and that many may consider adopting an SS now with better information on what raising an SS is like. 🙂

Many thanks to those who have helped contribute to this article in one way or another!

Our long-distance relationship now 🙂
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Seriously, it is Alright to Feed Kibbles and Raw Diet Together.

I’ve always seen this question and always hear this answer in response:
“No! You should never mix kibbles and raw meat together. It will lead to problems because kibbles and raw meat have different digestion speeds and require different pH levels, so you can’t eat them at the same time. You should feed a fully raw diet, none of that kibbles cr@p. That’s like feeding McDonald’s to your pet every day.”

It has also gotten really annoying to see raw feeders with a holier-than-thou attitude bashing on or criticising other pet owners for feeding kibbles or mixed diets. Let’s just start off by saying this:

Feed the pet in front of you. What works for one may not always work for the other. There is no one RIGHT or WRONG feeding, and you should do what is right for YOUR PET. No one has the right to criticise another individual for their decisions.

Of course I’m not referring to people who are just feeding their pets the most blatantly obvious and unbalanced meals, those should be called out. I’m talking about most decent and thinking pet owners in this situation, who does not deserve being called out for their decisions on feeding their pets.

I can’t emphasise this enough: EDUCATE people, not put them down. When we all first started, we all know what it is like to be in a position of confusion with so much mixed information available on the Internet. Why not take the time to share your experience, your learning resources, and allow them to then make a decision for themselves on what is right for THEIR FAMILY.

Raw feeding may be cheap or expensive depending on the country. The owners may or may not have the time to prepare a nutritious meal. There are many factors that go into why someone decides on feeding raw/kibble/HCF/any of the above combinations.

Also, just to address that whole idea of kibbles being MacDonald’s. That is not exactly right. Kibbles are essentially balanced meals that provide the necessary nutrition for the pet to live. MacDonald’s are unbalanced fast food that is poor in providing many essential nutrients.

Rather, try thinking of kibbles as army rations.
Does it taste good? Probably not.
Does it look or smell appetising? Not really.
But does it hit the minimal daily nutrients requirements? Usually*, yes.

* Disclaimer: I am referring to kibbles that are of decent quality which abides by nutrition guidelines in these situations.

This seems to have turned into a rant (lol). Now that the rant is over *sorry for ranting*, let’s get back to the point of this post.


What you see in a bowl is NOT representative of everything that goes into my dogs’ diets. Please do not replicate without knowing what is necessary for your pets.

So, it is not true that you cannot mix kibbles and raw meat. Yes, the digestion speed will definitely be slightly different, but this does not mean that you cannot feed at the same time. Do you have to wait a few hours before eating meat when you eat grains?

Note: Some pets may have diarrhoea when eating kibbles + raw meat, but this is not because of digestion problems, but because the stomach is not used to it. Any change in diets usually causes some problems (even among different brands of kibbles if you have a pet with a sensitive stomach).

Remember, your stomach does not have a pH level button, it will not change stomach acid when digesting kibble or eating raw meat.


Breaking Down “Digestion”

Geddit geddit? Breaking down? Digestion? (Okay sorry I’ll just show myself out.)

Digestion is the process of extracting nutrients from food and then transporting the released nutrients from the gastrointestinal tract to the body, where they are used for energy and tissue growth. The stomach and small intestine are the main parts of digestion. The stomach does not absorb nutrients, it releases them from food and destroys pathogenic bacteria such as Salmonella. The longer the food spends in the stomach, the greater the amount of digestion (this is good).

It is the small intestine, not the stomach, that absorbs nutrients. The nutrients released from the food are absorbed into the blood through the intestinal wall. The speed of food passing through the intestine will affect the number of nutrients that the small intestine can absorb. Fast-moving food cannot absorb too much nutrition. (Note: This might be where the misinformation starts.)

A recent experiment was conducted to observe the digestion speed of dry food and raw meat (see picture below). The researchers used X-rays and barium (a radiopaque liquid mixed with food) to trace dry food and raw meat through the gastrointestinal tract. Although only one dog was examined, its original digestion rate was slower than that of kibbles, which overturned the general statement that “raw meat digests faster than dry food”. In fact, liquids are emptied from the stomach faster than solids, and carbohydrates are excreted faster than protein and fat.

On the left is the x-ray of the dog eating kibbles, and on the right that of the same dog eating a raw meal.
The first two rows on the left is that of a kibble diet, the right and the last row is that of a raw diet. You can see that kibble was digested quicker than raw meal.

The above images were taken from The Raw Feeding Community, a great online source for raw feeders. I highly recommend heading on over to their post for a detailed explanation on the hour by hour breakdown of the meals being digested. Click here to be brought over to the original post.

Back to the explanation, when food enters the stomach, it will be soaked in stomach acid. Then, depending on the degree of swelling, the stomach will release an appropriate amount of gastric acid to control the dilution, so the pH can be maintained at a high acid level initially. Dilution is part of the digestion process. It occurs gradually through the digestive tract. What you don’t want to do is to have undiluted acid coming out the other end. Just thinking about it is painful.

The stomach has an excellent design and has served dogs and cats for thousands of years. As an example, when calcium is felt in the stomach, more stomach acid is released because bones are expected to appear due to the calcium content. More digestive juices are needed to break down bones than meat. There are more “sensors” and feedback mechanisms in the digestive system, which can effectively extract nutrients from various diets ingested by animals in different foods. We are at a time where we have access to a lot of information, let’s not fall for false information. Detailed research on pets has shown that mixing raw food and kibbles does not produce toxins or digestive challenges.

People have been feeding their pets a mixed diet for decades. Only recently has the trend of avoiding mixing become popular under the influence of false or wrong news. Studies have indeed shown that mixing some fresh raw food with kibbles is much healthier than kibbles alone. Complete + balanced raw meat is one of the best things you can feed your pet. But there are exceptions. Some owners may not have the time or money to feed raw meat, so we should not blame others for their choices. We all want the best for our pets, so please also give other pet owners the same respect, and do not fault them for a decision that they may have also made with the same best interests at heart (within reason of course).

Seriously though, please do not take my words out of context. What I’ve shared above is information from research that I have done. You should absolutely do your own research, start by reading up the blog I linked above to read about the experiment in detail. Then, come to your own conclusion on what is right for YOUR PET. You know best from experience and trials what works for YOUR PET.